automatic transmission 5r55e reliability | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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automatic transmission 5r55e reliability

kmartin

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 16, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Ford Explorer Sport
I am about to turn over 111,000 miles on my 04 Sport Trac. Still on original transmission, seems to be shifting flawlessly. There were some highway miles on it, rarely hauled heavy, no trailer hitch. How reliable our these transmissions? About how long to last?
 



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Roll the dice, better yet do your maintenance. Got 240k miles on this original 5r55e. Will be doing a tranny service come spring, new filter & fluid, put an eye ball on the valvebody. These STs aren't SuperDutys, so treat them gently.
Great. You see some that got the miles like you did, then I read some had to rebuilt before doing my time. I had mine flushed with synthetic ATF at 46,000 miles. The synthetic stuff seems to be holding up better as it is still red. But maybe it is time to do a change, I just at a point where I am deciding if I should put money into it to replace the body mounts, or if I should consider off loading it.
 






Is the filter a wire mesh or does it filter fairly fine and it should be replaced. My local dealer promotes you don't to replace filter with a flush. What do you look for when you put an eye on valve body?
 






Ive seen them crap out with 84K miles on them and Ive had trucks in the shop with over 300K on the stock trans..... it is all about HEAT and maintenance
If you change the fluid and filter once in a while the life will be extended
If you keep the trans cool, again it will last much longer

The 2000+ models of the 5r hold up much better then the previous years, 98+ is good, 2000+ is better, 2002+ are really good........ as the engines got more powerful the trans got many internal upgrades
 






All automatics should have certain critical parts replaced, those related to shifting functions. That means like a timing belt at 75k miles, do things for the trans, like all solenoids, all accumulators and related servo pistons(they all have rubber around the circumference(gets hard and develops leakage)). Sonnax makes very helpful VB parts for all popular models, including cheap cost o-ring kits, new PR valve etc.

Usually you can identify about $50 or so of that kind of Sonnax small kit parts, and all of them will increase lifespan, and improve shift quality. Installing those is not a job for a basic wrench turner, but most people can do it who are very careful and mindful of the process.

If everyone would do those kinds of maintenance for an automatic before every 100k miles, they would all last a lot longer. A trans fails almost never from wearing of the clutches, the friction/steel parts that are the common rebuild parts a shop puts in. Those rebuild kits are under $150, but the labor to R&R the trans and install it is, you know, $2-3k. The failure is virtually always a problem with one of the parts I mentioned that should be replaced regularly. When one of those things is faulty, the shifts get erratic, and it creates fast wear of the clutches.

People never stop driving their vehicle when the trans begins to have a symptom, they keep driving it until it gives up. By that time it is too late too fix it, they ruined the clutches by driving it another day or month etc. Do the parts that are weak links for shift functions, and the trans will live much longer. Lowering ATF operating temps, that helps too, a bigger cooler, deeper pan etc. It all helps, but the internal parts are still the most critical.
 






Di you know what filter media is in the filter?
 






It'll be a kind of fiber, the filter should be replaced every 50-100k miles. A flush is for the purpose of dislodging some kinds of debris, which there should be none in an automatic. I wouldn't pay an extra cost for something that should be unnecessary.

If the fluid is dirty than you need to remove it all if possible, changing a little at a time is helpful but not ideal. When I did my last trans fluid/filter about two years ago(98 302/4R70W), I drained all of the fluid. I removed the small trans cover over the front edge, which for the V8 exposes a drain plug in the converter. That drains the last two quarts of the transmission. I loosened the VB and pulled the filter. After about an hour of draining I put on a new filter, and a deeper pan. It took about 15 quarts to fill it up, I drained the front cooler also, and the new pan added a couple of quarts of capacity. Clean ATF is really desirable for a transmission.
 






these transmissions use Dacron filters if I remember right, a good filter is WIX or Motorcraft
 






It'll be a kind of fiber, the filter should be replaced every 50-100k miles. A flush is for the purpose of dislodging some kinds of debris, which there should be none in an automatic. I wouldn't pay an extra cost for something that should be unnecessary.

If the fluid is dirty than you need to remove it all if possible, changing a little at a time is helpful but not ideal. When I did my last trans fluid/filter about two years ago(98 302/4R70W), I drained all of the fluid. I removed the small trans cover over the front edge, which for the V8 exposes a drain plug in the converter. That drains the last two quarts of the transmission. I loosened the VB and pulled the filter. After about an hour of draining I put on a new filter, and a deeper pan. It took about 15 quarts to fill it up, I drained the front cooler also, and the new pan added a couple of quarts of capacity. Clean ATF is really desirable for a transmission.
Why them does Ford recommend a 150,000 mile filter and fluid change? Too me, that seems too long. Also, many places, including my local Ford dealer promotes doing flushes without changing the filter.
 






flushes = bad idea I'm telling you
We have been around these trucks daily for 25+ years you hear about the backflush that goes badly = new trans

This does not mean that EVERY flush will hurt a trans alot of it depends on who is running the flush machine, what fluids they are using and how long they keep it hooked up. But when it does go bad it can KILL YOUR TRANSMISSION by breaking loose bits of carbon and clutch material that will now clog passages inside the valve body burning up a trans in short order.

Why wouldn't a dealer promote a flush? They get to sell you labor and fluids and they are not LIABLE if something goes wrong, chances are you would use the same shop for the rebuild. Also why don't you ask your local dealership if they keep a lawyer on retainer for fighting litigation cases for liability/warranty claims.....
 






Ditto. I used to think there must be something good to the flush process. Over time we learn what is critical inside an automatic, and what is trivial etc. Almost everything is very important, but random partial fluid changes and filter changes, those are at the bottom of the list(for modern electronic transmissions).

Cleanliness is critical, and the filter is critical for that, extended fluid intervals is bad for fluid condition, both being clean and break down of the chemical properties. Any and all tiny contaminants in ATF are dangerous for all VB parts, and all solenoids etc. Flushing a trans is the best way to dislodge any of them. The best way to remove them is to keep the fluid clean, replace as much as possible at a reasonable mileage, and change the filter each time. Other parts need to be done after a time, say every 75-100k miles.

How much is a full rebuild, and what do those common wear parts cost to do every 5-10 years? Everyone should consider those questions, and care more for their vehicles. That makes them last longer, and without break downs.
 






Ive seen them crap out with 84K miles on them and Ive had trucks in the shop with over 300K on the stock trans..... it is all about HEAT and maintenance
If you change the fluid and filter once in a while the life will be extended
If you keep the trans cool, again it will last much longer
That is your bet shot @ a longer life, and it is still a crap shoot.
As for mine, it went 89k. Complete fluid change(not flush) and filter @ 51,000. Reved free on a freeway on ramp(throttle Not mashed), I wiggled the shifter, it caught, so figured it was not in a positive position. 12 hours later the whole thing failed on way home from work.
Then again have spoke w/ fellow owners who have stories going all the way to 200-300k, and abuse all the way.
 






That is your bet shot @ a longer life, and it is still a crap shoot.
As for mine, it went 89k. Complete fluid change(not flush) and filter @ 51,000. Reved free on a freeway on ramp(throttle Not mashed), I wiggled the shifter, it caught, so figured it was not in a positive position. 12 hours later the whole thing failed on way home from work.
Then again have spoke w/ fellow owners who have stories going all the way to 200-300k, and abuse all the way.
What I been hearing , it is all a crap shoot. While some transmission have there reputation, most are just a crap shoot. I think I will do another service on mine and keep motoring.
 












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