Automatic transmission service question.

[alcarames]

Hey guys, I bought a 2000 mercury mountaineer as an extra vehicle and winter driver. It is in top shape but never had a tranny service performed. My question is should I do a trans flush or drop the pan and change the filter? Ive heard some negative things about the flushing and how it can actually damage the trans by moving metal shavings around from the torque converter damaging the clutches etc. I also know the ups and downs to only changing the filter and whatever fluid is in the pan. By the way it has 90k miles and is a 5.0 awd. Let me know what you think, thanks.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

If everything is running good and you have no current tranny issues, why bother monkeying with it? 90k isn't terribly high mileage and you seem to indicate that you arent planning to put tons of miles on it right away. Just my 2 cents.

 

[2TimingTom]

I'm not having any issues with my engine, so I guess I'm not going to change my oil until I start having problems.

Does that sound logical?

I'd drop the pan and replace the filter and replace the 4 to 5 qts that came out when you dropped the pan. That's what I just did. I plan on doing it again in a few months and then again a few months after that. After that, every 30,000 miles.

Basically the idea is that if you take a high mileage transmission, replace all the fluid with new ATF (10-15 qts), which has all of its detergents at full strength, it will break up a lot of varnish and clog up valves in the transmission. But if you add only a little ATF at a time, you slowly bring up the detergent level and slowly clean the varnish out. That's the idea anyway.

 

[Fifty150]

It makes absolutely no sense to leave old fluid in the transmission. The transmission is often neglected. Regular service from when the car is new will prolong the life of every transmission. But it is never really too late to service any transmission. Do the "home fluid exchange".

Drop your pan. Replace with a pan that has a drain plug. Try to get one that has an increased capacity. Remove filter. Inspect valve body. Install new filter. Install new pan. Top off with new fluid. Then replace remaining fluid by draining through cooling line while adding new fluid in dipstick hole.

Be sure to use Mercon V, or high grade synthetic which meets specs.

 

[OneLever]

If I may interject I like your thinking Fifty150. I'd like to hear Glacier991's opinion on this as well but I'm sure its already buried in the archives somewhere. I'm assuming he'll need to cycle through the gear range while doing the "home flush". How many quarts of Mercon V would it take to do a thorough flush?

Also, there are several threads about adding a drain plug to the existing pan by either tapping a hole or brazing on a nut. Since an increased capacity pan will decrease your ground clearance do you have any thoughts on that versus a new pan?

 

[2TimingTom]

I'd like to hear Glacier991's opinion on this as well but I'm sure its already buried in the archives somewhere.

My method was actually recommended by Glacier991 in an old thread somewhere. What I forgot to include was what he also recommends adding a bottle of Lubegard Friction Modifier (you can pick it up at NAPA).

Personally, I wouldn't do the home flush (check the stickies in the Transmission section) until after I've slowly brought the detergent level up in the transmission. If you've kept up with regular fluid changes, then go for it.

 

[Fifty150]

The transmission fill capacity (if I remember correctly) is 14.5 quarts. If you purchase Mercon V by the gallon, 4 gallons is 16 quarts. That is a pretty safe amount, as sometimes it takes a little bit more new fluid to flush until clean, since the first quart or two might co-mingle with the contaminated fluid. It is always good to have an extra quart or two handy. So if buying by the bottle, go for 16 or 17 quarts. I have an 8 quart aftermarket pan, so I always buy 5 gallons.

I also like to use Lucas Oil Transmission Fix. But all additives are questionable and a topic of controversy.

Yes, you do have to set the parking brake, place your foot on the brake pedal, and cycle through all the gears.

If you have the know-how, and the welding equipment, then adding a drain pan is cheap and easy. I like aftermarket drain pans. The add fluid capacity and they are engineered for better cooling.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

My comment was not meant to say trannys don't need servicing. Done right its a very good idea. Problem is over the past twenty years or so I have seen a lot of half-way jobs done on people's cars. About a quarter of them ended up with major problems shortly thereafter due to metal and varnish floating around thanks to the new fluids.

 

[ahodges]

90k isnt all that bad. My 96 V6 explorer went 92k with no transmission service that I know of. At that point I changed the filter and topped it off with oil. Then at 120k I had the oil changed at the dealer. Now, there is a difference between changing the oil and flushing it from what I've heard. When a dealer flushes the transmission they put a chemical additive in it to "flush" the varnish and contaminants out and then they put a torque converter conditioner in with the oil. I was told those 2 chemicals/ additives come as a package.

I choose not to have the "flush" done and I just had them change the oil. Been driving it for 3k and have had no problems.

*By the way I was told that no transmission shop or service center change the filter with a flush and that it is a waste of money. However they will do it if you ask them too.

 

[Alaskanredneck]

The lubeguard is a great idea. Just about every trans shop in Alaska has at least one case sitting in there parts room. Might I recommend you use the platinum Lubeguard. when I bought my 96 I got a great deal on it because the guy said the trans was going out I put the platnum in as well as some lubeguard shutterfixx and it has been running like a top for the last 10k miles.
Most trans shops have 2 different services a tranny flush is just as it sounds no filter change, a tranny service usally includes filter change

 

[OneLever]

I'm not planning on doing this anytime soon just looking for opinions since the topic came up. I'll be sure to scour the transmission forum before doing any flushes.

*By the way I was told that no transmission shop or service center change the filter with a flush and that it is a waste of money.

Whoever told you this was probably full of it. What's the point in having a filter if you don't replace it once it gets dirty? Sounds like they're being lazy to me.

 

[ahodges]

I asked him that and he said cause if the filter has enough "stuff" band shavings in it to reduce the oil flow enough to matter then your tansmission is already junk.

 

[alcarames]

Thanks for all of the great input guys. A lot of helpful information here, I think I'll stick to the fluid and filter change and see how the tranny acts then go back at it again maybe next year and change more fluid.

 

[ahodges]

Thanks for all of the great input guys. A lot of helpful information here, I think I'll stick to the fluid and filter change and see how the tranny acts then go back at it again maybe next year and change more fluid.

That is probably your safest bet

Be sure to use Motorcraft Mercron V AFT or something better or of equal quality!

 

[Fifty150]

Be sure to use Motorcraft Mercron V

I think that is where the shops make their profit. They will use some sort of multi-vehicle ATF from a giant drum. In some cars, this will be fine, considering that Dex/Merc equivilant should run in just about anything. In others.....watch out! The rumor is only use Honda ATF in a Honda, and a lot of Fords will only run right with Mercon V. I have successfully used Red Line High Temp, Lucas Oil, and Royal Purple in my Hondas & Fords. I hear that Mobil 1 has a decent ATF, that Valvoline sells a Mercon V formula, and they both work well also.

 

[Fifty150]

*By the way I was told that no transmission shop or service center change the filter with a flush and that it is a waste of money. However they will do it if you ask them too.

I think it all depends on the shop. Just like how some shops will pour 10W30 or 10W40 into every car they service, no matter what the vehicle manufacturer calls for. I suppose that some of these shops can't be bothered with stocking multiple grades of oil, looking up the vehicle's correct specs, or even caring. These same shops will strip your drain plug bolts with air tools and re-use the gaskets even if they're leaking. Trust me, they screw up basic maintenance on purpose if it helps them keep the costs down.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

OTR Old Thread Revival

Anyone have brand/part no. etc for an aftermarket pan with Drain Plug??

 

[Fifty150]

OTR Old Thread Revival

Anyone have brand/part no. etc for an aftermarket pan with Drain Plug??

#4R70W-D
$250.00
Overall height 3.75"

Passenger cars / Mustangs, Crown Victoria etc...

Holds 1.5 quarts more fluid than stock pan

Includes: Bolt kit, and Drain Plug.
Attention: All transmission pans purchased Retail, direct from MAG-HYTEC.COM, include the correct filter.

If you purchase through another source, it is up to them if they include the filter with your purchase.

Extra filters are also available for your convenience.

Installation Instructions

 

[royando]

With 24 years as a Ford factory rep and Ford service manger, here is what I feel is best for all cars and trucks. Every 30 K warm it up, drop the pan, clean it and replace the filter, and drain the torque convertor (yes a 2000 5.0 does have a TC drain plug). Then refill it with approx 12 quarts of Mercon V. This gets most of the dirty oil and grit out. I would not flush anything or put in any additives.
I have 2 explorers: 1993 145k, 1996 180k

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Thanks Fifty!! Will check it out!!

royando, @30k I had the trans serviced like you said (@ Ford dealership). Then at 60k they said we dont recommend filters/drop pan etc, only drain and refill... I will agree with your recommendation which is why I am looking for a new pan etc to do it myself.