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autozone shackles?

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2nd gen 4 dr
ive looked all over but i cant fine universal shackles /addlead for cheap to alleviate my rear sag... cant seem to get in store at one of the big box stores... šŸ˜– jve checked autozone oreilly pepbys online but havent found any... does anyone have a pn of a currently existing one? sorry!


edit: are these the shackles? its unclear... https://www.autozone.com/parts/susp...ilt-universal-leaf-spring-lift-kit/540393_0_0

if so, could i pair them with this addaleaf? Pro Comp Rear Add-A-Leaf - Pair - 13120

edit again: i currently have a 3.73 ls, do i need to regear to 410s for 30 in. tires? sry for so many dumb questions...
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The shackles have no picture. Working in old silverados sounds like not the same type of shackle to me. And the add a lead you linked is missing longer mounting hardware, like u bolts, I think. Are you driving a v6 or v8? 30ā€ tires are pretty much stock size for the v8. Should be fine on 3.73 even with the v6.
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ok! thank you! i shall see about finding longer ubolts... i have the ohc... wish i had your 5.0 tho! šŸ˜ btw ill keep a lookout for ur truck when i go driving in the valley šŸ˜…
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ok! thank you! i shall see about finding longer ubolts... i have the ohc... wish i had your 5.0 tho! šŸ˜ btw ill keep a lookout for ur truck when i go driving in the valley šŸ˜…
also i bet this has been answered by others before, and i used search but came up with mized results.

A. are the OME springs designed for our rigs made to use stock shocks? will they wear out faster than if i use OME shocks?

B. theyre advertized as a 1.5 inch lift- is this loaded or unloaded? if so- how much is it unloaded

C. if I need differnet shocks, what were the ones on Herc? inknow theyre ome, bur whats the PN? Thanks!
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WARRIOR 153 Rear Gray Heavy Duty Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017M6F2W/?tag=serious-20

Thereā€™s your shackles. Leaves would be the best option, and most expense and work of course. Iā€™m not sure about the shock length. Rancho used to make extended shocks, not sure if they still do.
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thanks! ive been considering the OMEs... but not sure yet... would i need extended ahocks, or would the air shocks i installed years back still work just as well? also is the advertized lift (1.5 in) when loaded or unloaded? thanks! šŸ™‚
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thanks! ive been considering the OMEs... but not sure yet... would i need extended ahocks, or would the air shocks i installed years back still work just as well? also is the advertized lift (1.5 in) when loaded or unloaded? thanks! šŸ™‚
also i have a set lined up that im probably going to pull the trigger on... would the rancho rs9000xl shocks be the appropriate ones? do i even need them, could i stay with my air shocks for a similiar performance? sorry im kinda dumb...
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also i have a set lined up that im probably going to pull the trigger on... would the rancho rs9000xl shocks be the appropriate ones? do i even need them, could i stay with my air shocks for a similiar performance? sorry im kinda dumb...
If you are only doing shackles no need to extend the shock. The add a lead though I think requires new shocks but I have not done that myself.
If you just torsion twist the front you will also not need new shocks. It does not increase the travel at all just forces it into a higher up stance. You should get an alignment afterwards though it can effect your camber and ruin the tires a lot quicker.

between my load assist shocks and shackles i gained like 2 1/2 inches total lift in the rear and cleared 31ā€ tires with plenty of room in the back still. I trimmed the front and twisted 2~ full turns the front is slightly lower then the back I wanted to get the best handling I could with the bigger tires. I did hear it rub when I had it in some dirt roads on tight turns + bumps but have never heard it rub on the road.
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ive looked all over but i cant fine universal shackles /addlead for cheap to alleviate my rear sag... cant seem to get in store at one of the big box stores... šŸ˜– jve checked autozone oreilly pepbys online but havent found any... does anyone have a pn of a currently existing one? sorry!


edit: are these the shackles? its unclear... https://www.autozone.com/parts/susp...ilt-universal-leaf-spring-lift-kit/540393_0_0

if so, could i pair them with this addaleaf? Pro Comp Rear Add-A-Leaf - Pair - 13120

edit again: i currently have a 3.73 ls, do i need to regear to 410s for 30 in. tires? sry for so many dumb questions...
eBay. Get 1 to 2 inches longer to relieve sag.
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Interesting read regarding the Rancho RS5374 front shocks designed for up to a 2-1/2 inch lift.
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Interesting read regarding the Rancho RS5374 front shocks designed for up to a 2-1/2 inch lift.
He makes the counter aurgument right from the start. Different shocks ride and feel different. Regardless of their length. The problem with putting on longer shocks with a torsion twist is that the travel can still bottom out to the non torsion amount. Effectively blowing out the shocks and reducing their life and wear dramatically. The longer shocks are just being forced into a smaller spot. Its placebo on the ride quality.

and I am strictly talking stock torsion bolts. If you get a torsion key kit sometimes those are small lift with spacers by the bolts too so would make sense to need spacers for the shocks.
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^ Good points regarding shock length. I have no clue on extended travel length affecting ride quality. I'm lowered 3 inches. LOL

I've never been a believer in LIFT keys. IMO, they are just re-clocked or re-indexed keys that essentially do the same as cranking the bolts. Control arms are still going to be at the same extreme angles resulting in a much harsher ride. Lowering keys are a different story. They are still re-clocked, but after completely removing the t-bolts I could only get a 1-1/2 inch drop. Using drop keys gave me a 2-1/2 inch drop with the bolts close to the stock position and barely sticking out. Here's one of many "lift key" discussions:

Torsion lift keys?

EDIT- Corrected "drop keys" to "LIFT keys".
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^ Good points regarding shock length. I have no clue on extended travel length affecting ride quality. I'm lowered 3 inches. LOL

I've never been a believer in drop keys. IMO, they are just re-clocked or re-indexed keys that essentially do the same as cranking the bolts. Control arms are still going to be at the same extreme angles resulting in a much harsher ride. Lowering keys are a different story. They are still re-clocked, but after completely removing the t-bolts I could only get a 1-1/2 inch drop. Using drop keys gave me a 2-1/2 inch drop with the bolts close to the stock position and barely sticking out. Here's one of many "lift key" discussions:

Torsion lift keys?
The keys allow you more travel. The same way they lower a truck, they allow lift.

No need for longer shocks on the front. You are not changing maximum travel as mentioned above. You are simply setting where the truck rides in its travel.
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In my experience, you can get a small amount of lift out of torsion twist. Maybe an inch or two. Even the stock torsion twist key will let you lift even higher than that, but the ride quality was very poor. I tried this, and found that almost any travel at over 50 mph was fairly scary.... very skittish. The easy answer was to back off the OEM torsion twist.

I can not help but think that an aftermarket torsion twist key that would allow for even more torsion twist than OEM would do just that. It would raise the front end even more, and really get skittish. I would recommend against that. Unless you only drive slow and off-road. But then surely there would be better lift systems dedicated to off-road.

Just my opinion.
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