Aviator suspension rebuild time!

[ponkotsu]

At 150k, I think it's time for a few new suspension parts. As far as I can tell it's all original except for the rear wheel bearings that I replaced last month.

Getting a few bangs and rattles in the front, but not horrible yet. Getting a fair amount of steering wheel wobble when braking at high speed. Starting to not feel 100% safe.

Front end:
Definitely replace all the ball joints, tie rods and stabilizer links.
What about the bushings? Seems like they usually don't wear out, but I want this thing to handle like new.

Rear end:
Everything feels nice and tight. I'm thinking it doesn't need anything. And the rear is much less sensitive as far as I know.

Shocks:
I believe the Aviator came standard with KYB? The Motorcraft ones are about $150 each from Ford and KYB's are about $70. hmmm

Anyone that has one of these beasts please let me know what you did.

 

[ponkotsu]

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the parts. Ordered all Raybestos pro grade from Amazon. Even with the 5% discount Amazon was a few dollars cheaper than Rockauto, and I got free shipping with Amazon. Went with the Monroe Sensa track shocks from Rockauto. Only choice with the Aviator is Monroe or KYB. From what I've read, the Monroes and KYB are pretty equal customer satisfaction. Monroes were much cheaper with the buy 3 get 1 free deal now.

Looks like the Raybestos Pro are way better quality than anything else, so I figured its worth a few more dollars. I think about $80 price difference between the best and the mid grade. I won't even bother with the cheap ones, too much risk.

 

[Mr Dubya]

Be sure to take some pictures even though it's not anything particularly new - we don't get the chance to see many aviator-related things on here, and I think it would be fantastic to see someone headline some aviator stuff.

We're suckers for pictures.



-Dubya

 

[Thub]

I'm going to be doing a front end overhaul on mine in the coming month or so, I have a lot of play up front. Shocks/springs were replaced by the PO but the rest is all original at 125k. All Moog problem solver grease-able components for me, that stuff is built to last, never had an issue with any Moog parts.

I have to replace the lower control arm bushings so its going to a shop, I don't have the proper tools to over come 300 ft-lbs of torque on the front control arm bolt to the frame. Need a major air supply and a 3/4" impact for that baby.

 

[ponkotsu]

I'm going to be doing a front end overhaul on mine in the coming month or so, I have a lot of play up front. Shocks/springs were replaced by the PO but the rest is all original at 125k. All Moog problem solver grease-able components for me, that stuff is built to last, never had an issue with any Moog parts.

I have to replace the lower control arm bushings so its going to a shop, I don't have the proper tools to over come 300 ft-lbs of torque on the front control arm bolt to the frame. Need a major air supply and a 3/4" impact for that baby.

Keeping my fingers crossed that the lower bushings are okay on mine. From what I can determine, they are non- replaceable on the Aviator. I guess you have to buy new control arms from Ford at $1,000 each.

 

[Mr Dubya]

300 ft-lbs of torque on the front control arm bolt to the frame. Need a major air supply and a 3/4" impact for that baby.

Two cans of PB blaster, a 1/2" breaker bar (with a 6-point impact socket), and enough battle-cries to wake the dead and I managed to get mine off last year.

Worth a shot?

 

[ponkotsu]

Two cans of PB blaster, a 1/2" breaker bar (with a 6-point impact socket), and enough battle-cries to wake the dead and I managed to get mine off last year.

Worth a shot?

Back in WI when I worked on rust buckets I had a 6 foot long steel pipe that slipped conveniently over my breaker bar. Guaranteed something will give with that setup.

 

[HiImBrian]

Breaking that 300 foot-pound bolt loose is really the easy part.

Torquing it back down however…

 

[Thub]

I'm not going to bother fighting 10 years of rust when a close buddy of mine owns a shop and can just zip everything off with an impact. Besides there is no way I am attempting to budge a 300ft-lbs torqued bolt after that many years, its probably equivalent to close to 400 ft-lbs by now. The pinch bolts for the strut assembly on the rear of a Ford Taurus only takes ~90 ft-lbs and those are a major pain to break loose by hand on a car that has been up north its entire life..

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

I would suggest replacing the sway bar bushings - they squeak after time (if you can). I replaced sway bar links (they were over torqued last time) and clunked.

I had my rear right toe link replaced and my rear clunking is gone. My truck probably is in better shape than it was 5-6 years ago!

Transmission had a ISS sensor replaced - no more jarring/clunking

I just need to fix the tear in the driver's leather!

 

[ponkotsu]

I would suggest replacing the sway bar bushings - they squeak after time (if you can). I replaced sway bar links (they were over torqued last time) and clunked.

I had my rear right toe link replaced and my rear clunking is gone. My truck probably is in better shape than it was 5-6 years ago!

Transmission had a ISS sensor replaced - no more jarring/clunking

I just need to fix the tear in the driver's leather!

Planned on the sway bar bushings, but turns out they are semi-non serviceable on the Aviator. Its an integrated steel housing and rubber bushing kind of like a control arm bushing. Would have had to drop the say bar and cut them off with a grinder. Seemed like they were still pretty tight so I left them alone.