AWD ---> 4x4 Manual T-Case Swap | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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AWD ---> 4x4 Manual T-Case Swap

X6StringerX

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2011 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost
Ok, I've been reading a ton of threads here for the last hour or two and I'm a little confused.

I have a '98 5.0 AWD X. I want to do the manual t-case swap, but I'm reading about a lot of potential complications.

Apparantly the speed sensors are different on the '96-'97 AWD t-cases as compared to the '98-up t-cases. What manual t-case do I need to get to have a compatible speed sensor? BW1345? BW4406? Maybe its my sleepiness kicking in, but I can't seem to find any straight answers.

Since this will be a manual t-case swap, I can keep my stock gas tank, correct? If I have this right, I just need to grind/file the two tabs off the top of the t-case and "modify" the gas tank bracket.

Sound good so far?

Next complication... I read something about having to remove my center console unless I have a body lift. Does that mean permenantly? If so, WTF?!

Next... I read something about having to disconnect a harness that, in turn, disables my rear speakers. What does installing a manual t-case have to do with my speakers?



To sum it up:

I need a manual t-case that will be compatible with my speedo.('97/'98 F150?)

A front drive shaft from a 4.6/5.4 F150.(what years?)

A rear drive shaft from a 4.6/5.4 Expedition/Navigator.(what years?)



Am I missing anything?









EDIT:

It would be great if someone that had knowledge on this could condense all of this information starting with a "parts needed" list and then a "how-to install" section including making the dash lights work all into one thread and make it a sticky. None of the current swap threads seem to have all of the information and what information they do have is spread out over 7+ pages. It makes it really hard to find the answers you're looking for.

I promise, if/when I get all of my parts and start on this job, I will take detailed pictures and do a write-up.
 



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From what I understand, our 98's use a different speed sensor--so it isn't an issue--
Maybe Mountaineergreen or 97v8 will chime in here
 






Thanks for the reply, Jon.

I was hoping there would be a mountain of information by the time I got to check the thread...

Anyone out there have answers to these questions. I plan to start accumulating parts for the swap as I find them. I just want to get the right stuff.
 












EDIT:

It would be great if someone that had knowledge on this could condense all of this information starting with a "parts needed" list and then a "how-to install" section including making the dash lights work all into one thread and make it a sticky. None of the current swap threads seem to have all of the information and what information they do have is spread out over 7+ pages. It makes it really hard to find the answers you're looking for.

I promise, if/when I get all of my parts and start on this job, I will take detailed pictures and do a write-up.


Now, that I see this, you should really click the link in my sig- I do have it all with the exception of the speed sensor and I can get you a link to that.


EDIT: And I just so happen to have a conversion d shaft with 2 brand new u joints in my shed ready to go!
 






I read a good portion of your thread last night, but to tell you the truth, I was so tired I'm not sure my brain was processing what I was reading.

I'll give it another read this evening. PM me with details about the shaft. (zip: 25125)
 






Ok, you can get a case from either a 4.6 or 5.4. THe rear driveshaft needs to come from an expedition. Doesnt matter what engine or suspension it has.
The front driveshaft will need to come from a 4.6 liter f-150
The center console will need to be removed if you dont have a body lift. Reason is, becuase you cant get to the top bolts of the case from under the truck.
Now for the cente console plug, unplug your battery for 10 mins, and keep it disconnected. Unplug said harness. When everything is completed, plug back in, and you will still have your rear speakers :)

You will not have any complications with your speedometer becuase you are a 98.

Have a nice day.
 






Thanks for the info.

Let me get this right.

The center console only needs to be removed during installation, correct? The hump won't have to be modified to fit the t-case... other than the hole I have to cut for the shifter, so the console can be reinstalled after the t-case is in place.

The way I read it, I thought the center console had to be removed permentantly.

The t-case I need is, in fact, the manual 4406? What about the 1354 or 1345 or whatever it is? In order for my speedo to work, the case must be from a '97/'98, right? Didn't the '99+ change?



You still selling your wheels/tires?
 






The console needs to be removed for the install, but just to access the bolts at the top of the t case. You re install the console when done. If your truck has the speed sensor in the rear end, you don't have to worry about anything.

The T case is the BW4406.
 






My rearend has a sensor that plugs into the top of the housing... I assume this is the speed sensor.

Ok, I'm making a part list.
 












I just got off the phone with a distant relative of mine that owns a salvage business.

They have a BW4406 manual for $450 but it has 100k miles on it... don't think I want to risk that. They also have a front drive shaft from a '97 F150 for $50. She said that she wasn't sure what motor was in the truck, but there was a note attached in their system that said "23 inches from weld to weld". They only wanted $50 for the shaft... anyone know if this is what I'm looking for? As for the rear drive shaft... no luck from them. My factory shaft can be shortened by 2" and work, right?

MountaineerGreen - PM with details about your shaft... yeah, I know, that doesn't sound right.
 






My case had 80K on it, I'm not worried about it. I don't know if I wouldn't be concerned with 100K.

You can't shorten your factory d shaft, it has the wrong connections for the t case. The 4406 has a slip type connection where as your AWD has bolt on flange. I can probably find you one around here, but freight on the rear will be high.
 






Ok, I had that confused.

I'll check around some other local yards before I reach out for forum help, lol. I just figured I'd call the family to see if I could get some kind of deal. What would be a fair price on that 100k case?



One thing is for sure, when this swap gets finished, I know of two 255/70/15 Cooper Cobras that are going to get a little warm...
 






I gave $550 for the case, linkage, and two d shafts. But I think I got a pretty decent deal because the salvage yard knows me well.

I'd offer them $350 or $400 for it and see if they take it. Make them give you a 30 day warranty with it so you can try it out.
 






I definately think there is some negotiation possibilities. They said they're not going to deal in Ford parts anymore... strictly GM.

Of course, my reply might have sealed my destiny.

I said, "yeah, you guys probably make a lot more money off of Chevrolet stuff... Fords never break down."

*shrugs*


:-D
 












450 for a case with 100k seems a lot. I got mine for something like 300 with 30k on it
 






Ok, so right now, I can get the front F-150 drive shaft for $50 and I just browsed ebay for rear Expedition drive shafts. There are several of them on there starting at $59.99 + $31.01 shipping. $91 doesn't sound too bad...

As for the 4406... there are a couple on there. One is listed pickup only with a BIN of $350. Its in a neighboring state... There's another listed for, I think, around $250 + $100 shipping. Both of these units have way less miles than the unit at my relative's salvage yard. I'm going to talk to them again... possibly tomorrow to see if I can negotiate based on this info. My cousin told me that they've had the truck for quite some time... big slip up on her part. I'll use this to my advantage... its not like people are lining up for the t-case. Maybe wave $250 in front of them. They have a hard time saying no when cash is in front of them.

Now that the easy part is over, I need to start scraping the piggy bank and selling myself on the side.

So its looking like this:

Front drive shaft = $50
Rear drive shaft = $90-$100
BW4406 = $250-$450
Linkage = hopefully still intact... otherwise, haven't researched.

I think 6 bills would take care of the job... possibly 5 if I'm lucky. I've got enough spare scratch to nab the front drive shaft, but I'll have to wait til January 5th, at best, to get the rest.
 



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