masospaghetti
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- October 22, 2006
- Messages
- 1,526
- Reaction score
- 160
- City, State
- Huntington Beach, CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 XLT, OHV, 4D, 4x4, 5M
Just replaced my rear axle assembly this weekend (changed from a 3.27 to 3.73 gearset). Reading through other how-tos and the Hayne's manual led me to believe that the differential cover had to be opened, axles and brakes removed, and some really crazy maneuvering to get the assembly out from the leaf springs. Just a couple tips if you're like me, and wanted to just get the whole thing in there so I could road test it ASAP so I could make sure the bearings were good before doing any significant work on the brakes or seals.
In my experience most junkyards offer a warranty on used parts, but they really don't test them in a meaningful way (so you basically need to test them yourself within the first 30 days or so to get a refund).
- The assembly with brake rotors and calipers can be removed as a whole. You can even leave the sway bar attached (but obviously need to disconnect the end links).
- You don't have to remove the shocks, they have enough give in the top bushing to be pushed out of the way.
- Disconnect the rear leaf spring bolt so the springs will hang down, allowing you to roll the axle assembly out with a floor jack directly to the rear of the vehicle.
- Unless you have completely lunched wheel seals, you don't have to drain the assembly to remove/install, leakage will be minimal to none.
- I had a SCT Flash device previously used to install a tune, this device also allows speedometer calibration following an axle gear ratio change.
- The assembly is heavy but two people can pick it up and move it short distances. No way a single person could do it.
The difference is obvious with the new ratio. Gears feel significantly shorter and take offs are easier (the main reason I did the change) so I can tow heavier loads, supposedly from 2200 lbs to 3200 lbs. Obvious sacrifice is highway cruising RPM which will reduce fuel economy.
In my experience most junkyards offer a warranty on used parts, but they really don't test them in a meaningful way (so you basically need to test them yourself within the first 30 days or so to get a refund).
- The assembly with brake rotors and calipers can be removed as a whole. You can even leave the sway bar attached (but obviously need to disconnect the end links).
- You don't have to remove the shocks, they have enough give in the top bushing to be pushed out of the way.
- Disconnect the rear leaf spring bolt so the springs will hang down, allowing you to roll the axle assembly out with a floor jack directly to the rear of the vehicle.
- Unless you have completely lunched wheel seals, you don't have to drain the assembly to remove/install, leakage will be minimal to none.
- I had a SCT Flash device previously used to install a tune, this device also allows speedometer calibration following an axle gear ratio change.
- The assembly is heavy but two people can pick it up and move it short distances. No way a single person could do it.
The difference is obvious with the new ratio. Gears feel significantly shorter and take offs are easier (the main reason I did the change) so I can tow heavier loads, supposedly from 2200 lbs to 3200 lbs. Obvious sacrifice is highway cruising RPM which will reduce fuel economy.
