AXLE Help!!

[Polo Suafilo]

Okay so I currently stacking parts and getting ready to FW Radius arm SAS my 94 Explorer Sport. I have a 78 cast wedge hp44 and all the fixins ready to put in it. But just came across a 77 welded wedge hp44. Should I buy the 77 and sell the 78? or should I just say it's not worth the extra work and just roll with what I got?

 

[1sicbronconut]

So how are you handling the added width of where the radius arms are mounted on the 78' housing? If you need to relocate the arm mounts/wedges it will be a lot easier to do that on the 77 housing.

 

[Polo Suafilo]

So how are you handling the added width of where the radius arms are mounted on the 78' housing? If you need to relocate the arm mounts/wedges it will be a lot easier to do that on the 77 housing.

So my original plan was to add spacers behind the coil buckets. But the other day I grabbed that earlier housing axle. I am planning to cut off and weld the wedges further in. Have you done it? If so how much did you slide the wedges in?

 

[1sicbronconut]

I guess I'd rather move the wedges myself, have no idea on Explorer's I've dealt with Early Bronco's before and the full width axles are 6" wider pretty much all on the passenger side. Could you leave the wedges loose on the axle and just clamp the radius arms on and mock it up under the Explorer first? You should also be able to get a center of spring to center of spring measurement off the Explorer and use that.

 

[BKennedy]

Do a search for Kirby N.'s Ranger SAS. He did what you are planning, relocating the wedgies inward on a full-width D44. Another plus with that 1977 axle housing is the tubes are over 1/2" thick wall tube. They are much stronger than the cast wedgie axles. I have a 1976 HP D44 that I cut the long side down to early Bronco width.

The early Bronco axle is 6" narrower, so 3" a side. Early Bronco axle is still 3" wider than the Explorer stock width. If you cut off the wedgies, and get the axle under the Explorer where you want it, you can drop a plum bob right off the coil buckets.

 

[Polo Suafilo]

Thanks for the advice! I follow Kirby on Instagram but have never read his build thread. I’m gonna skim through that a bit. I’m pretty stoked how close I’m getting to finally building my rig.

 

[RangerX]

Numerous people on this forum have done that, you can go search thru the SAS Registry to find them, then go to their corresponding build threads in the Off-road Projects section to find out their step by step how-to details.

 

[1sicbronconut]

Do a search for Kirby N.'s Ranger SAS. He did what you are planning, relocating the wedgies inward on a full-width D44. Another plus with that 1977 axle housing is the tubes are over 1/2" thick wall tube. They are much stronger than the cast wedgie axles. I have a 1976 HP D44 that I cut the long side down to early Bronco width.

The early Bronco axle is 6" narrower, so 3" a side. Early Bronco axle is still 3" wider than the Explorer stock width. If you cut off the wedgies, and get the axle under the Explorer where you want it, you can drop a plum bob right off the coil buckets.

Not quite sure about that 3" off each side? I actually have a 77' HP and a early Bronco axle housing sitting out in front of my shop right now if you want any measurements. I've used full width axles shaft in quite a few early Bronco builds over the years and you shorten the passenger side approx 6" (have to have resplined ) and grind 1/4" off of the drivers side shaft, the full sized trucks used 1350 sized u-joints and the Early Bronco's used 1310's so back in the day when I could buy full width axles on the cheap I could up-grade to larger u-joints for around $500 ($50 to respline)

 

[BKennedy]

Not 3" off each side, 6" wider overall than early Bronco axles. The 3" per side would be how much he would need to bring the wedgies in if he was going to go with early Bronco width. If one was going to cut down the axle to early Bronco specs, you would only shorten the long side 6". I did it for mine and axle shafts intended for early Bronco's went right in with no issues. I upgraded the inner shafts to chromoly when I narrowed the axle, and you can get them with the 1350 u-joints. I think the Yukon shafts were less than $400 for the set. The stubs are original equipment from 1976. The full sized axles are 9" wider than the Explorer TTB width, early Bronco is 3" wider than TTB width. There are many pros and cons to full-width axles, but its all boils down to personal preference.
6" paperweight, hold down, circle maker, etc.., piece cut out of long side axle tube.

This has all been said and done many times. Quick search through this thread will give you lots of information
Solid Axle Swap Registry | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations (explorerforum.com)

 

[BKennedy]

Kirby N's build thread
Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations (explorerforum.com)

 

[Polo Suafilo]

Kirby N's build thread
Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations (explorerforum.com)

You’re the man. I’ve been reading through it recently. I have probably read most of the threads and for sure if it was FW and 78/79 Dana44. Idk how I missed his thread but I have followed him on Instagram a year or so back.

 

[1sicbronconut]

You’re the man. I’ve been reading through it recently. I have probably read most of the threads and for sure if it was FW and 78/79 Dana44. Idk how I missed his thread but I have followed him on Instagram a year or so back.

What are you planning on doing about tire coverage for the full width axles? When I lived in Farmington NM and wheeled a lot in South Eastern Utah the police were pretty good about enforcing the tire coverage/mud flap laws or have the let up on that?

 

[Polo Suafilo]

What are you planning on doing about tire coverage for the full width axles? When I lived in Farmington NM and wheeled a lot in South Eastern Utah the police were pretty good about enforcing the tire coverage/mud flap laws or have the let up on that?

I am hoping to tuck them in by wheel choice. I haven’t thought a ton about it tbh. On my old bronco 2 I used TJ fender flares and it had some clean lines but idk if I want to do that again. Do you have any recommendations?

 

[1sicbronconut]

I am hoping to tuck them in by wheel choice. I haven’t thought a ton about it tbh. On my old bronco 2 I used TJ fender flares and it had some clean lines but idk if I want to do that again. Do you have any recommendations?

No recommendations just curious if you had any plans, having a sport it should be eaiser than figuring them out for the four doors with the rear door cut into the wheel arch.

 

[Polo Suafilo]

Guys I’m getting stoked the closer I get to doing this swap! One question I do have is there any other aftermarket transfer case options beside behemoth and an atlas 2? I used to have a 1354-1350 doubler but sold it with my last truck:/

 

[BKennedy]

I would stay away from Behemoth because they have issues keeping their promises. If you want to wait a year to get your stuff, then they make great products..

I have a 3.8 Atlas II and its worth every penny. Have been thinking about adding a NWF iBox but I need to use the rig more before I decide.

 

[1sicbronconut]

I would stay away from Behemoth because they have issues keeping their promises. If you want to wait a year to get your stuff, then they make great products..

I have a 3.8 Atlas II and its worth every penny. Have been thinking about adding a NWF iBox but I need to use the rig more before I decide.

X2 on the Altas! have a 4.3 in my Early bronco based buggy and once you get one you wonder how you ever wheeled without one!

 

[Polo Suafilo]

I want one but $2,000 is alot of money even with a "stimulus" check coming. I've never looked into them but I will start looking.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I am hoping to tuck them in by wheel choice. I haven’t thought a ton about it tbh. On my old bronco 2 I used TJ fender flares and it had some clean lines but idk if I want to do that again. Do you have any recommendations?

If you are going for tucking the tires in by the wheel choice, You would want the 1977 axle and move the wedges in. This will keep your coils and shocks (provided that is the direction you are going) further away from the tires to keep from rubbing. You will also have to look into radius arms like the Duff branded radius arms. (providing you are going for a radius arm suspension) Arms like the james duff ones will benefit because they are bent to give maximum clearance for your tires while turning.

An issue with this, your wheels will be backspaced to where the hub sticks out of the wheel excessively. If you are going to wheel/offroad it, then the hub will stick out and catch on everything possibly damaging it.

you will also need at least 16" or 17' wheels to clear the brake caliper at that much backspacing

 

[Polo Suafilo]

If you are going for tucking the tires in by the wheel choice, You would want the 1977 axle and move the wedges in. This will keep your coils and shocks (provided that is the direction you are going) further away from the tires to keep from rubbing. You will also have to look into radius arms like the Duff branded radius arms. (providing you are going for a radius arm suspension) Arms like the james duff ones will benefit because they are bent to give maximum clearance for your tires while turning.

An issue with this, your wheels will be backspaced to where the hub sticks out of the wheel excessively. If you are going to wheel/offroad it, then the hub will stick out and catch on everything possibly damaging it.

you will also need at least 16" or 17' wheels to clear the brake caliper at that much backspacing

Thanks for the info. I am going to run the 77 Dana 44 and I have Duff Radius Arms and am going with WH 5.5 Coils at the moment. When I get it set up I will see if that's the coil I want to run. The only thing I am lacking at the moment to really pull the tires in is the 17" wheels. I got a deal on some 35x12.5x15 tires I couldn't pass on so I am gonna be running those for now. You make a great point about protecting the hubs I will for sure keep that in mind when finding wheels.

On a side note there is a new machinist making Doubler Kits for RBVs. His name is Michael Steelman out of the Reno area.