Axle Sitting on Rotors | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Axle Sitting on Rotors

Pollarican

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 10, 2006
Messages
387
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City, State
Wall Township, New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 EB 4dr
I have the opportunity to snatch up a Disc Brake 1997 8.8 axle with 4.10's and a L/S. However, it seems to be sitting in the junkyard on half a tire on one side and no tire on the other. Do you think this could have damaged the axle enough that I should stay away from buying it for $200? I assume that sitting in such a way could have bent the backing plates as well as other things.

For the record, it is dirt that it is sitting in, not rocks/ concrete.
 



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That sounds okay -- sitting on a rotor is no big deal unless the axle was dropped on a harder surface (like rock or concrete). Of course as with any used axle, you have to pop the cover and make sure everything is okay inside before you hand over the cash. Some rust inside the differential housing is common and of course you will be filling it with new fluid anyway.
 






Thanks IZ, that's just the answer I was looking for. I guess even if those backing plates bent a bit thats nothing a BFH couldn't straighten out. :D
 






Bought the axle today, however it seems the Burt Reynolds imposter junkyard guy thought it would be great to torch through one of my wheel studs.

I have the axle stripped on jackstands in my garage, and I cant see a possible way to replace this stud without taking off the E-Brake backing plate. What seems to be even more fun is the fact that even when unbolted, the E-brake backing plate does not seem to come off unless I remove the axle shaft.

My main question is, do I have to pull the axle shaft to replace a wheel stud on the 8.8, because I have failed to find a 100% direct answer searching? I would hate to have to risk breaking that carrier bolt and having to extract it.
 






Its been a while since I've handled the 8.8 but if my memory is correct, you dont have to remove the 10mm or whatever size carrier bolt to remove an axle shaft on a stock ratio 8.8 -- only high ratio axle shafts need the carrier bolt removed (ones with a notched center cross pin). All you have to do is pop the cover off, push the axle shaft in a little bit, and then you can slide out the C-clip using a small flathead screw driver. After that, pull the axle shaft out.

EDIT -- I see you have a LS unit, that "S" spring is going to make things difficult. But still, give it a try, you may get the C-clips out even with the "S" spring in place.
 






I don't think you have to remove the axle shaft to replace a wheel stud. Here is a how-to I found on how to replace the stud.
 






Thanks again for the advice IZ.

James, that was the perfect article to direct me to. Thanks a lot for the link.:thumbsup:
 






Its been a while since I've handled the 8.8 but if my memory is correct, you dont have to remove the 10mm or whatever size carrier bolt to remove an axle shaft on a stock ratio 8.8 -- only high ratio axle shafts need the carrier bolt removed (ones with a notched center cross pin). All you have to do is pop the cover off, push the axle shaft in a little bit, and then you can slide out the C-clip using a small flathead screw driver. After that, pull the axle shaft out.

EDIT -- I see you have a LS unit, that "S" spring is going to make things difficult. But still, give it a try, you may get the C-clips out even with the "S" spring in place.


I think he was referring to the cross-pin retainer screw... If so, that one WILL have to come out... There's no way to push the axle shafts IN without removing the cross pin, and there's no way to remove the cross pin without removing the retaining screw.

But, as mentioned, there should be no need to remove the axle shaft to replace a stud... I *think* you can get the new one in in just the right position... If nothing else, a strategically placed hole in the backing plate with a rubber grommet should do the trick, I would think...
 






Got it ground down, punched out, and replaced with a new stud with the good old impact gun and some washers. No need to pull out the axle shaft itself.

However, I have been searching all over the place around here and can't find any kind of info on how people routed their E -brake lines or even normal brake lines. The axle has gotten its first coat of rust converter and I would love to rebuild/ plan the brakes tomorrow while I finish painting it.

P.S. - The ending goal is to weld up a set of perches I have to go with my Ranger Skyjacker 6 inch kit. The kit did not come with any brake lines, so I will be trying to find a somewhat inexpensive rubber line to adapt to the new ride height for the rear. Any idea if I could grab a F-350 line or something that would be an OEM part stocked at an auto store?

THANKS for the help guys, much appreciated.

EDIT: I'm trying to take as many pictures as I can remember to take so I can do at least a vauge write-up of the swap, and as soon as I can figure out brakelines I will be sure to grab a handful of photos.
 






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