Back to Exploring. Did I make a good purchase?

[2kExplorerDude]

I have previously owned a 1991 Explorer with a manual transmission a few years ago and sold it a while back. I got invested with a few different variations of Chevy Tahoe, Yukon and Suburbans in the meantime and each vehicle had it's pros and cons but I always missed my Explorer,

Two weeks ago, after getting my tax refund, I came across a 2000 Explorer V8 Eddie Bauer edition. Went to go see it and was surprised how immaculate it was. Garage kept, owned by an employee for Ford, meticulously maintained. The original owner passed it down to his recently graduated son so he could use it to commute to college. Well, boys being boys he wanted something better on gas and more sporty so he sold it to me for $2300. The only issue was that it was an Illinois vehicle and I'm in California.

I've had my mechanic check it out and no codes come up so it appears that all systems are good. So far I've driven it almost 500 miles and she drives perfectly. I have to get it smogged in order to get the California title and plates however I am a little concerned that since it came from Illinois that it may not pass the strict smog standards in my state but considering how well he vehicle appears to be maintained I might be worried for nothing.

I've read on many posts on here that the V8 5.0 is the way to go as far as this generation of Explorers but is there anything that I should be aware of? She has 125K miles on it. Does not leak anything. Consistently gets about 18MPG.

I plan in using it to tow a small travel trailer in April. Is there anything that I should be checking before I make the trip? I've just installed a tow receiver bar rather than using the bumper for towing. Trailer weighs about 1500K, probably less.

Did all Eddie Bauer editions come standard with AWD? How could I tell if it's really AWD? I'm use to having 4WD and having the option of pushing a button to switch but there is no indication of AWD anywhere on the vehicle although when I ran the VIN number it came back with AWD in the info.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mike65]

Welcome. I think you did ok on the price seeing as it has the 5.0 V-8.

 

[koda2000]

Easiest way to tell if it's AWD is to pop off a front hub cap. If you see a large nut in the center of the wheel, it's AWD. No not all 5.0L came as AWD. Being from IL it may be an AWD though. The thing with the AWD is to keep all 4 tires with equal wear and inflation or you can damage the viscous coupling in the center differential (transfer case).

We have three 2000/2001 5.0L V8's in the family. Other than the fuel economy (which I don't consider horrible) they're great vehicles. With only 125K there is plenty of life left in your EB. The 5.0's can easily go 300K.

The Gen II ('95-'01) Explorers have their issues as they age, but if you're handy they are easy, inexpensive repairs and this forum is a great resource for help and advice. Biggest thing to check is the ball joints and sway bar ends. Other than that, if everything else is working, just enjoy it. Price-wise you got a good deal. There may be a small round decal on the driver's window that says "LEV" (assuming the PO didn't remove it). This stands for Low Emissions Vehicle. All of my 5.0's have this decal. I would think that would mean you shouldn't have a problem passing California emission tests.

In my experience, plan on replacing the fuel pump at about 175K. All my Explorers and Mountaineers had fuel pump problems at around this mileage. I've changed 6 in the past 14 months. They usually begin by working intermittently when the weather turns cold.

 

[1996xlt]

As far as what to check for before a long trip, basic fluid/brake/bulb/trailer harness checks would be a good place to start. With it being a V8 AWD, I would imagine a transmission cooler came standard in it, but if not a trip to your local junkyard will fix that.

 

[supermidget]

My 99 EB 5.0 has over 220k on it and still going strong for my 70 mile round trip every day at 20mpg average all highway driving.

Fastest way to see if its awd or 2wd is just look under the front bumpern. If you see an axle then yes or no axel its 2wd. Only takes a second to look that way.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Easiest way to tell if it's AWD is to pop off a front hub cap. If you see a large nut in the center of the wheel, it's AWD. No not all 5.0L came as AWD. Being from IL it may be an AWD though. The thing with the AWD is to keep all 4 tires with equal wear and inflation or you can damage the viscous coupling in the center differential (transfer case).

We have three 2000/2001 5.0L V8's in the family. Other than the fuel economy (which I don't consider horrible) they're great vehicles. With only 125K there is plenty of life left in your EB. The 5.0's can easily go 300K.

The Gen II ('95-'01) Explorers have their issues as they age, but if you're handy they are easy, inexpensive repairs and this forum is a great resource for help and advice. Biggest thing to check is the ball joints and sway bar ends. Other than that, if everything else is working, just enjoy it. Price-wise you got a good deal. There may be a small round decal on the driver's window that says "LEV" (assuming the PO didn't remove it). This stands for Low Emissions Vehicle. All of my 5.0's have this decal. I would think that would mean you shouldn't have a problem passing California emission tests.

In my experience, plan on replacing the fuel pump at about 175K. All my Explorers and Mountaineers had fuel pump problems at around this mileage. I've changed 6 in the past 14 months. They usually begin by working intermittently when the weather turns cold.

Now this is an interesting tid bit of information. My 96 always feels like it wants to stall when I drop it to drive but only when it's colder out (below 40 degrees). I have 148k at the moment.

 

[koda2000]

Now this is an interesting tid bit of information. My 96 always feels like it wants to stall when I drop it to drive but only when it's colder out (below 40 degrees). I have 148k at the moment.

What I'm saying is that the fuel pump doesn't prime/run when the weather turns cold, not that they don't put out full pressure. If there's any question about your fuel pressure, test it at the fuel rail. Return-type fuel system should be around 35-37 PSI, return-less type around 65-67 PSI.

You might have a MAF, IAC or air temp sensor issue.