Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS

[Blee1099]

Bah.. Once I get my notebook fixed, we can figure how bad it is.. Stupid damn dc power connector cracked in the motherboard

 

[Stic-o]

Can't you just use a spare tone ring? I think I have one

 

[IZwack]

Can't you just use a spare tone ring? I think I have one

Thanks - i have one but I don't think an 8.8's tone ring will work cauz this is what my RABS setup looks like

 

[FROADER]

Filipino people are crazy!

 

[IZwack]

Filipino people are crazy!

LOL oh really?
Well then good thing I'm not one

 

[section525]

I think you are.

 

[IZwack]

I think you are.

5 out of 4 Americans think I'm not



Right now I'm trying to think of what else I need to order from SummitRacing. I need to order the shocks for the rear so, to save on shipping/handling costs, I'm trying to think of what else I need to get

For the rear shocks, I've settled on Explorer proComp's ES-3000 series -- and more specifically part # EXP-332000 at Summit for $33 each I was originally going to go with the ES-9000 but I read somewhere that the 9000 series are too hard/firm compared to the 3000 series (http://www.offroading.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579&view=next&sid=c564638207f574f527c7ae4beb3a4ad3).


EDIT: Order placed
CYB-A021E161N Gauge, Digital, Transmission Temperature, 70-260 Degrees F, 2 1/16 in. Diameter, Electrical, Green, Each $39.95 1 $39.95
CYB-SENSS6E Sending Unit, Oil/Transmission Temp, 0-250 degree, 1/8 in. x 27 NPT, Each $15.95 1 $15.95
EXP-332000 Shock/Strut, ES3000, Front/Rear, Chevy/GMC, 4WD, Each $32.95 2 $65.90
USW-78-5080R Wheel, 8-Spoke, Steel, Natural, 15 in. x 10 in., 8 x 6.5 in. Bolt Circle, 2.5 in. Backspace, Each $55.39 1 $55.39

 

[Stic-o]

I ran the PC9000 on my truck before the SAS. I had no complaints with them

 

[FROADER]

The master at work again!!

 

[IZwack]

The master at work again!!

fine - you get a lumpia.. one hot lumpia foe yewww

 

['97 V8]

now i know you have a flex shot on a rock, so c'mon...lets see em.

 

[sn0border88]

got any shots of how much wider it is? Whats the new WMS front and back? WHats the BS on the wheels?


Also, when you reset the caster for pinion angle, did you grind the weld off the c's and rotate or bandsaw through the tube?

 

[IZwack]

These are the only flex shot on a rock that I have. The front suspension is pretty much at its max in these shots .

And to get a perspective of the size of things, here is my brother in front of the explorer:

got any shots of how much wider it is? Whats the new WMS front and back? WHats the BS on the wheels?

Also, when you reset the caster for pinion angle, did you grind the weld off the c's and rotate or bandsaw through the tube?

The BackSpacing on the wheels are 2.5-inches. If you want more info on the wheels, you can check them out at SummitRacing (part# USW-78-5080R): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=USW-78-5080R&N=700+0&autoview=sku

I don't have a head-on shot with everything completed or a number for the WMS-WMS, but this is the closest I have (taken during contruction). There are no front fenders so it looks a little narrower than this.

As for the caster angle, yes the weld was grinded, C's rotated, and then re-welded.

 

[sn0border88]

jesus man, very well done. You gotta get this thing up to paragon for some rocks.

How was grinding the c's? Just have to grind on the inside of the c or was there a weld on the outside on the differential side

 

[IZwack]

jesus man, very well done. You gotta get this thing up to paragon for some rocks.

Totally agree on a Paragon run - I still have to put on some rear shocks tho and get the Aussie Locker in.

How was grinding the c's? Just have to grind on the inside of the c or was there a weld on the outside on the differential side

Grinding the C's is somewhat a PITA. The goal is to cut the weld deep enough so you see this ever so faint hairline which is the separation between the C and the axle tube. But you dont want to go much deeper than this line or else you'll start cutting too deeply into the axle tube. It takes time and a lot of patience to get this line all the way around the tube. If you dont see this line all the way around the axle tube, then you havent completely cut the weld. And you should use the proper electrode to weld the C's back onto the cast iron cauz its cast. The weld is just on the "outside".

 

['97 V8]

WOW! Thats some seriouis flex! Makes me consider using airsocks now.
What was the hardest thing to do on the swap...you know, that had you stepping back and scratcing your head.

 

[IZwack]

[QUOTE='97 V8]WOW! Thats some seriouis flex![/QUOTE]I wish I could say the sme for the rear axle But in time, I hope to convert it to a |/\| four link. As to whats going to hold it up im not sure yet, I might go air-shocks again or try something new like coils and let the coils separate from the chassis.

[QUOTE='97 V8]What was the hardest thing to do on the swap...you know, that had you stepping back and scratcing your head.[/QUOTE]The hardest and most time consuming was the research But this is good cauz if reserach is done properly, then the build typically goes a lot smoother. But as far as the build goes, nothing was really hard (lol that sounds ****y), it was just a matter of time - that and trying to stay cool in the summer heat (I must have drank 25 gallons of Gatorade on this build). I mean if you were to ask me what scared me the most in the beginning, it would probably be the brakes because I know nothing about brakes and there are so many different approaches to fittings and such.

 

[sn0border88]

Totally agree on a Paragon run - I still have to put on some rear shocks tho and get the Aussie Locker in.

Grinding the C's is somewhat a PITA. The goal is to cut the weld deep enough so you see this ever so faint hairline which is the separation between the C and the axle tube. But you dont want to go much deeper than this line or else you'll start cutting too deeply into the axle tube. It takes time and a lot of patience to get this line all the way around the tube. If you dont see this line all the way around the axle tube, then you havent completely cut the weld. And you should use the proper electrode to weld the C's back onto the cast iron cauz its cast. The weld is just on the "outside".

Only reason I asked is because Im plannin on narrowing a HP 44 to EB width or even less (to keep street legal with 14" wide tires and no ugly glass flares) and dint feel like cutting and rewelding int he middle of the tube. Doings it this way should keep the strength if the housing with no need for trussing.

 

[IZwack]

..14" wide tires...

why go so wide on the tires?
My 36x12.5 TSL-SXs seem a little on the wide side for my taste

 

[IZwack]

...no need for trussing.

IMO, trussing depends on the suspension setup. Typically, if the supporting shock/coils/leaves are kept as far out as possible (and as close to the knuckles as possible), then there is realy no need for a truss. On the other hand, if they are closer towards the differential, then the tube acts as a lever with the shock/coils/leaves as the fulcrum -- and there is a need for a truss.