Battling the cancer: Rust vs. My 97 - rocker panels and more

So I've had to shift gears lately on my 1997 that a lot of you have come to be familiar with - it's been less mods, more preservation. There's been rust working it's way through my rockers and rear quarter panel for some time (like many on here) and it finally broke through recently. I could stick my finger into the rocker panels and the paint popped off and rust pushed through the quarter panel.

Unfortunately I'm not as talented as a lot of you guys and this was a problem I didn't have the skills or time to repair myself. Thankfully, I've known this was coming for years, and had been saving money and working on getting estimates from local body shops. I found the right shop and finally brought her in for repairs 2.5 weeks ago. I had the panel cut, patched and repainted, my drivers front door where I'd been keyed back in 2007 fixed, the front fenders where the bumper had rubbed the paint repaired and had the biggest problem, the rockers, redone. They cut out all of the rust, re-welded in new metal, sanded, bondo'ed and repainted everything with the addition of a chip guard coating as well.

I'm very happy with how it all came out. Pictures are below. This will help keep the beast healthy and functioning for many more years.

However, I have a few questions for you guy - especially you body guys (looking at you MONMIX). I did a full detail on her today, and there's still little issues all over the place. Small chips in the paint with tiny rust spots, a flake here, and ding there, etc. What's the best option for these little spots? Dab with rust reformer, touch-up paint, and a dab of clear - basically just do my best to seal them? Just looking to keep prolonging the life as long as I can.

Another thought - the body panels they redid for me look AWESOME. They re-cleared them and the shine is showroom again. You can see in the picture of my door below. What are your thoughts on having the rest of the truck compounded and re-cleared? It would cost a LOT, but it would look awesome and protect the metal/paint very well, I'd think. Is this common? Wise?

Enjoy the pics, and keep fighting the rust beast...


BEFORE:

Rear quarter panel rust breakthrough:

Rear quarter panel paint cracking/peeling:

Rockers:

AFTER:


Rockers all repaired!

Driver's side keyed door, all fixed:

Shot of the rear & trouble quarter panel:

 

[MONMIX]

However, I have a few questions for you guy - especially you body guys (looking at you MONMIX). I did a full detail on her today, and there's still little issues all over the place. Small chips in the paint with tiny rust spots, a flake here, and ding there, etc. What's the best option for these little spots? Dab with rust reformer, touch-up paint, and a dab of clear - basically just do my best to seal them? Just looking to keep prolonging the life as long as I can.

Another thought - the body panels they redid for me look AWESOME. They re-cleared them and the shine is showroom again. You can see in the picture of my door below. What are your thoughts on having the rest of the truck compounded and re-cleared? It would cost a LOT, but it would look awesome and protect the metal/paint very well, I'd think. Is this common? Wise?

If I am a gambling man, which I am, I would wager the body shop did an adequate repair and no more than that. The rust eventually will come back. Its just a sad and simple reality.
Chips are also a simple reality. If you drive your vehicle, you are gonna get chips. Dab some touch up in them and keep going.
If the dings are in an area that has body filler, the options are limited to reworking the body filler. Otherwise, a PDR, ( paintless dent repair ) guy can do the trick. Some of these guys are miracle workers. Some are idiots.

I cant tell you about reclearing the vehicle. I am not going to spend your money.
It really depends. Do the mis matched shines really bother you? Are you going to keep this long enough to make the expense worth it ?

BTW its a quarter panel, not a rear fender.

 

[Paraphoe]

If I am a gambling man, which I am, I would wager the body shop did an adequate repair and no more than that. The rust eventually will come back. Its just a sad and simple reality.

Definitely aware of this sad fact, living in the Rust Belt. It's a battle we've all been fighting for years.

Chips are also a simple reality. If you drive your vehicle, you are gonna get chips. Dab some touch up in them and keep going.

Figured as much - didn't know if there was any better option, but if just dabbing with touch up paint is the way to go, then I'm on it. Automotivetouchup.com, here I come....

I cant tell you about reclearing the vehicle. I am not going to spend your money.
It really depends. Do the mis matched shines really bother you? Are you going to keep this long enough to make the expense worth it ?

Yes you can - I want your opinion. Haha. Is there much of a benefit? I know it would be crazy expensive, but if it seals up all of the imperfections and gives me more years, then it's probably worth it to me. I'll be straightforward - I have a fierce loyalty to inanimate objects (to a fault) and I don't plan to ever sell this truck. So every measure to extend life is a win in my book...

Thanks Kevin.

 

[toypaseo]

As for the chips, maybe look into a fiberglass pen sander, http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270937

When my Paseo was my main driver, I used that pen on all the chips that were down to the metal. Followed that up with some liquid rust converter. Then touch-up paint. No areas that I touched-up bubbled, grew, or anything. Nothing. But, it's only been in mostly in dry climate WY, some dry climate CO, and a couple years in AZ.

I am wondering if something they use in Hawaii would work for you. It's something like electronic rust control. But, I have read online where they are a waste of money. My brother had a 2WD Mazda truck he bought in Hawaii, and had it shipped to California when he moved. It had some sort of electronic rust control. I looked at the truck when he brought it to Wyoming. Chassis had a light coating of surface rust. Not sure if the unit controlled rust on the chassis though. As for the body, it was rust free. Dunno if the exterior was just fine with the original finish from the factory. Dunno if the electronic rust control was the reason that the body was in great shape.

 

[Paraphoe]

Kent, thanks for the tips/info. I like that prep pen a lot, will probably pick one up.

I did a little reading on the electronic rust control, and from what I gather, it works well on boats where you can use the water to complete the circuit, but it's basically useless on cars. Probably not worth the money...

 

[jbird7262]

Paraphoe, as to your question on reclearing the truck, the only way that you are going to have this done correctly in to have the whole body sanded down, eveything removed that can be so you get good adhesion, if I was going to "reclear" I would just repaint the base then clear, which in my years of refinish industry, cost is going to determine quality in most cases. $3500 on the low end but in the real world $5000-6500 and thats with all the labor involved taking all the sh*t off. Is it a good investment? Thats your choice, I would keep as is and just use the same bodyshop that now has a good color match and a history with the truck to do your repairs as needed, because your going to need them if ur wheeling it offroad.

 

[2TimingTom]

In the future I'd look into getting the rust repaired and then painting it similar to what [MENTION=34819]jenren81[/MENTION] is doing with her paint.

Looks good though. I'm very glad I don't have to deal with rust here.

 

[Paraphoe]

Thanks jbird, appreciate the input. Without re-clearing, what do you guys recommend for removing swirl marks? My hood is a nightmare.


2TT - good lookin' out. I like the sound of that Monstaliner stuff. Time to do some research.

 

[jbird7262]

swirl removal

You can try 3M or miguires #2 with a buffer, foam pad or wool followed by a hand glaze or wax, its usually a 2step process, just be careful with a buffer around edges, put some masking tape on you hood and cowl edges. try a small area to see how it works.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Didn't see this half a year ago, but wanted to say that looks incredible!! I'm going to need new rockers at some point. So far been quoted about "$600-$700 per side"... Ouch

Truck looks great!! How is the paint holding up? And Happy New Year