Best route for power wire from battery to back hatch?

[viz]

Hey I apologize in advance if this has already been asked. At any rate, I have a 96 Eddie Bauer 4door, and a 2000 watt amp with subs, caps, etc. I want to run it all to the back, and the best way I've found to do this in other vehicles is run 6 or 8 gauge back to a distro block near the "target area" - the rear cargo area in this case.

My question is, what's the easiest & best way to run this off of the battery. I'd really rather not drill the firewall if possible, but I guess I could if I need to. Everything's just so damn inaccessible on that firewall, haha. If there's some sort of 12volt lead inside the rig somewhere that would be perfect.

Help me Obi Wan

 

[Raminator157]

You do not need to drill at all. Look for the spot where your hood latch cable goes through. Take a screw driver and pock a hole in the groumit around the cable. Then take a coat hanger. A metal one and make it straight. Then tape the wire to the coat hanger and pock it through, then reach youer hand in the engine bay and untape the wire and pull it through. Then just run the wires through your moldings. For a ground you have to drill a hole and remove all possible paint around it. I did this under one of the rear seats. Good Luck

 

[Mbrooks420]

If you are running a high quality 2000 watt amp you had better go with at least 4 gauge to the distribution box.

 

[viz]

Thanks Fordexplorer157

Mbrooks420, it's not that high quality

Now, as I understand it, there's some sort of harness-adapter for that JBL amp & sub in the back, that I can use to get a remote power wire and a pair of pre-amp RCA inputs? I'm a little fuzzy about how all this will work since I haven't been able to get the $#@%ing cover/grille off of the enclosure.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

well if ur using ur STOCK HU, u need to use a line out adapter, otherwise, u just plug the RCA's into one of ur preamp outs (rear, or if u have it sub.) Then u tap into the wire that goes to ur fusebox that only turns on when the car is on, and hook the remote turn on to that. Or to a switch if u want to control that.

 

[Crankcase]

If its all the way to the rear hatch, just run along the frame until the back.....

 

[Mbrooks420]

I disagree with Crankcase. Any live wire should be ran inside the cab, unless it is FULLY sheathed with something better than wire loom. There is a remote line that you can use from the cargo area, but there is no preouts.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

oh, definetly run it inside the cabin. If u bottom out, or if the wire comes off of the frame and touches something hot, it will fry ur amp, and possibly subs.

But if ur running stuck HU, u have no preamp outs, so u need to get a LOC.

 

[NusenseSD]

I know on my ranger there is a rubber grommet right around where the accelerator is located on the firewall.. You should be able to find it with relative ease..

Also technically if you got a 2000 watt amp you would want to run 2 guage wire or what is more commonly known as 0 guage.. For my Kicker KX1200 I ran that from the battery to the cap and then from the cap to the distrobution block from that I ran 4 guage to each of my amps.. (KX1200.1 and KX600.4)

That spot on the firewall is just big enough to get the large wire through also..

 

[Raminator157]

I know on my ranger there is a rubber grommet right around where the accelerator is located on the firewall.. You should be able to find it with relative ease..

Also technically if you got a 2000 watt amp you would want to run 2 guage wire or what is more commonly known as 0 guage.. For my Kicker KX1200 I ran that from the battery to the cap and then from the cap to the distrobution block from that I ran 4 guage to each of my amps.. (KX1200.1 and KX600.4)

That spot on the firewall is just big enough to get the large wire through also..

That would be the same place I was talking about

 

[Crankcase]

I disagree with Crankcase. Any live wire should be ran inside the cab, unless it is FULLY sheathed with something better than wire loom. There is a remote line that you can use from the cargo area, but there is no preouts.

Hehe....just saying it CAN be done.......if it was fused....

 

[Mbrooks420]

It's a good way to get a wire back there if encased in some kind of abrasion resistant sheathing.

 

[Crankcase]

For running on the frame you can use that split sheathing wire loom...the black stuff that looks like hose....

 

[kalel33]

I dont care if its high quality or not...if it puts out 2000 watts rms then it needs to have 4GA power and ground wires. Usually if you hit above 500 watts then its best to use 4GA or it will have problems giving up the power. I had that problem once with a 280 watt amp using 10 GA and the alternater was bouncing up and down trying to feed it the necessary power.

 

[94ZebraRanger]

For 2000 Watts I would at least run 2 if not 1/0. Depends on the power load of the amp/s. I am running 2 amps each with 80 amps of fusing. total 160 amps. I am running 1/0. For 2000 accual watts you should at least have 150 amps of fusing or more.

Tim

 

[Raminator157]

I hate to say. When it comes to Car Audio you only want to buy the best. I have heard horror stories. I use only high end Platnuim RCA cables with High End Power wires. The Platnuim will stand up alot better in the winter time.

 

[mdawg644]

definetly use the good stuff. had 8 gauge running to a 1400 watt kenwood and I went through many fuses and many power issues before i dropped the cash for 4 gauge and i can definetly tell the difference with more power.

 

[kalel33]

When I said "I dont care if its high quality or not" I was referring to the amp, and not the wiring. I always use high quality wire....I love my stinger amp wiring kit. That if he had a mediocre quality pushing 2000 watts you would still need to get the correct guage of wiring.

 

[Ford_Racing_Guy]

my amp isn't even that big and i have 4 gauge to the dist. block and then i think its 10 gauge from there, but i thought mine as well run the bigger wire then i don't have to change it around later if i get a bigger amp