Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 68 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

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Progress pictures
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031.jpg


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042.jpg

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Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

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BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

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Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
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And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
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2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

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Post up lots of pictures. You know I want the coil overs also, and the red color works for mine too.

I've got to work on some stuff, I bought another truck(Ranchero) last week, and it should be here next. Look on eBay for completed sales last week(Ranchero for $10,500). I've got a muscle car again.
 



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Nice project. Those coil springs look great:thumbsup:
 


















Tim, I doubt I will ever be that cool. But until my grandkids know what a blower is, to them, I am.
Thanks for the feedback Rick.

Don, my neighbor has some fairlane rancheros if that's what you are into.
 






Tim, I doubt I will ever be that cool. But until my grandkids know what a blower is, to them, I am.
Thanks for the feedback Rick.

Don, my neighbor has some fairlane rancheros if that's what you are into.

You are cool Jon, we are just getting old enough it doesn't matter much now.

My first car was a 72 Gran Torino, and I bought a 73 Ranchero ages ago and put a 72 front end on it, just like the movie named for it, with the cool hood scoop. This one was rough but I kept it to hopefully fix it right. Now I found one that is complete and in great shape, I'll swap the front end and some other things, sell one and keep the other. We need some hobbies.
 






I’m only bugging ya buddy! Your on my cool as hell list. Need to get back down there one day for another visit
 






It would be great to see old faces some day soon.

So, back at that Moab place I hit the cowguard dealio too fast going off it , and wiped the torsion bracket skid plates, bent one of the adjuster bolts, and also the crossmember

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I hope that isn't too much of an issue because it's been that way for quite a while.

oh yeah, bars off

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"COIL OVER COIL OVER"

Ill start the chant

Now to PM rockranger about more coilover bracket dealios
 












sew, so?

IFS goals VS IFS reality

no t bars, shocks or swaybar to limit travel. passenger side full droop , driver side arm on bottle jack with fully compressed bump stop. (need bigger tires to droop or stuff will drag)
P1000840.JPG
 






Pretty sure these are factory outer tie rod ends. Out of nostalgia I kinda want to leave them in, they still feel sticky and tight.
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Anyhooos,

Here's your tools needed list

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I have the spindles on the floor, lower ball joints pressed out. Moving so sloooowww

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old passenger side upper. Still hanging in there but making a mess due to the need for excess greasing

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Put a bigass Channel lock pliers on TRE's, and squeeze them gently to see if they move/compress at all. New or good TRE's will be very tight and not compress.

My sister's 2007 Jeep Unlimited had a death wobble for a year or so, and the two places she went to couldn't keep it from coming back. I got at it and slowly replaced parts. The other places missed four bad BJ's, and the new track bar installed at the beginning was the new problem(it wore out within a year). I did the TRE's and BJ's first, then bolts and the steering pitman arm. After that I realized the new TRE's were bad(the two outers very much), and did the track bar again with new CA bushings. The track bar was evidently not tight enough with the OEM metric bolts(factory holes too big). New aftermarket bolt kits solve that, but new damage you have to find again and replace etc.

My sister's issue wasn't the TRE's, but the new ones were wiped out quickly with the DW at normal speeds. They didn't feel really bad by hand, but they deflected(crushed) easily with a minor force of the Channel locks.

With a lot of age and miles, TRE's are suspect for sure. I used the TTX type of TRE's on my trucks, they were not bad from Rock Auto, and they seem tougher than OEM.
 






all those tools......and i bet the 10mm is missing

The one and only is under lock and key. but I did manage to fling a castle nut to oblivion , or maybe the neighbors yard with the air impact
 






So glad to see someone else's tools are as organized as mine when I work. 😁
Looks like you're getting it done...
 















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