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Big White - Ford Racing Powerdyne Installation Thread

donalds

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1999 ford explorer sohc
I'd check it when you have the new one to compare to the old one
 



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donalds

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1999 ford explorer sohc






MuscleJunkie

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The link for the playlist won't work that's why I put it in text just copy and paste into your browser;) for the full playlist
Coming up fine here..
 












MuscleJunkie

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I'd check it when you have the new one to compare to the old one
Are you speaking about the restrictor? I think the TSB (here is the text for those that cannot open it) calls for installing one under certain circumstances. Since I have installed a Supercharger thinking maybe a good idea since the system might be under greater pressure?

fdgsdfgfd.jpg ergerh.jpg erhherh.jpg
 

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MuscleJunkie

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So my mechanic suggests I also replace the evaporator, and blend door actuator while he is doing the heater core replacement. Does anyone have the Ford Motorcraft part numbers for these or are there other parts that are more recommended?

2000 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 V8 AWD with EATC HVAC

Thanks
 






donalds

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If it ant broke ....
 






MuscleJunkie

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If it ant broke ....
Generally I would agree but since we’re going to have this whole thing tore apart I’m very torn about not replacing some of these things that have been known to fail on the Explorer over time. Keep in mind the truck is 21 years old and I don’t think that any of those other parts of ever been replaced. Do you think it’s a good idea to just do it or really just let it be? I’d hate to have to tear apart the dash again
 






donalds

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If it wss me I'd buy the parts have them handy then inspect them and go from there that includes the blend door actuator

Not the condenser that can be replaced without dash removal
You can get it from under the hood easy ....I have a write up thetad With pictures and manual stuff with a vid ...
 






CDW6212R

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The actuator is reliable but yes after 20 years it could be a good idea to replace. Same for the evaporator and heater cores, I decide on those based on how much they cost. The actuator used to be about $60, I bought one years ago for my final rebuild.

Thanks for the blend door link to the metal one, I'll consider that depending on how this Dorman part works to install etc. The Dorman unit has a metal top pivot point, which is the spot that breaks on the old plastic ones.

The drain outlet you found is built in to try to route all coolant outside, though often some does end up inside under the rug. The heater plenum is supposed to be made with a low spot at the front, and make that flow out through the firewall.
 












CDW6212R

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Here's a picture I have of my 99 with the dash and all out of it.
Projectthread018.JPG
 






CDW6212R

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This one is without the dash, but after I had put the AC box back in there. Another member had asked about where the air inlet sensor hose attached. It's there where the white elbow goes on.


Projectthread077.JPG
 






CDW6212R

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Projectthread026.JPG


This is my 99 firewall from the front, underneath. It didn't have the insulation I mentioned before, the models I've noticed with it, have it mounted on the vertical section. It would go basically on most of that green section from the bottom seam up to the upper seam. I thought about when I saw it in junkyards, but figured an aftermarket material would be just as good.
 






MuscleJunkie

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410Fortune

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FYI the 99-01 trucks have WAY LESS blend door issues with the actual blend door axle splitting
It was the 95-97 trucks that had it BAD
If it is not broken I would not replace it on a 99
The actuator usually strips a small nylon gear you can open yours and see the condition. If the gear is stripped you can rob one from the cheapo dorman replacement. If you just leave the back screw out now then you can get the actuator out easily at any time in the future
Save some $$$ where you can
 






MuscleJunkie

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Well BIG WHITE has went back to the shop

Now having a water to air intercooler installed. Should look something like this when it’s done. I’ll update progress as it goes.

5305ECE3-89A8-4B75-B660-9C8762BF838E.jpeg 025E628C-2C48-447E-88ED-47EE87C20CB2.jpeg
 






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That IC will help a lot. Have you bought the parts yet? It would be more efficient to route the piping straight to an IC box mounted right onto the lower intake. In a blown application, the long runner intake doesn't gain as much bottom end torque versus a short runner intake. You could select a higher flowing lower intake such as the TFS, Holley, or Edelbrock. I got the TFS because it is the shortest and all three of those flow about the same for the lower. Here's a TFS R intake with an IC plenum mounted on top of it, I don't think it's well done, but the idea is there.

air_to_water_intercooler.jpg air_to_water_intercooler4.jpg
 






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Does this mean you will be adding more boost???
 



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MuscleJunkie

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Does this mean you will be adding more boost???
I hope so. Right now with the pulley that I have I am right at the recommended rpm range if I have a 5400 RPM shift point. If I were to shift at a lower RPM I could go to a smaller pulley. Right now a lot of timing is being pulled due to high IATs. With the current set up before the intercooler I’m seeing 6psi boost or a bit more about 5400 or so. Keep in mind I’m a bit more opened up than other explorers with similar set ups due to larger plumbing, MAF, TB, intake spacer, headers, etc.
 






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