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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread


Rick

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Did you install the linkage to the transfer case, then install the case?
I'm pretty sure that's correct. I imagine that I would have put everything in place except for the shifter handles so I could see where the floor needed to be cut.
 

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stephen93Eddie

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Thanks Rick. I think that will clear, hope it will clear. I just got off the phone with Vic at AA. He recommended I get the Explorer shifter kit so I ordered it. He went out and measured out the tube that all the shifters attach, to see if it would be where I wanted it. My transmission is about 5 inches shorter than OEM, but there is an adaptor that takes up a few inches, so it will be a few inches forward of where yours sits. Did you install the linkage to the transfer case, then install the case?

Know anybody who wants a complete, partially installed cable shifter?

Well, I guess I should get back out in the garage and pull the transfer case again.
I recently installed my atlas, it was a pain to do it but I installed the shifters after getting the atlas into place I did like some and lowered my trans mount about an inch and notched the 4wd shifter area fit nicely, I can get some pictures if you want.
 


BKennedy

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Please. I can easily remove the cross member and drop the transmission output end about 4 inches before I start feel any binding. It will make things much easier to mount.
 


stephen93Eddie

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it was kind of dark but I can take more shots tomorrow if you need, also if you need a specific picture let me know.





 


BKennedy

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Thanks for the pics. That should be fine. Ours are clocked about the same. You got about 100 pounds of mud under there
 


stephen93Eddie

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Thanks for the pics. That should be fine. Ours are clocked about the same. You got about 100 pounds of mud under there
yeah one ripp through the mud and im regretting it every day, gonna power wash it soon...
 




BKennedy

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I got the Atlas rod shifter that is made for the Explorer/Ranger about an hour ago. It took me about 30 minutes to mock it up on the bench. Most of that was trying to figure out which way the shifters went so they would end up straight in the truck. Then about ten minutes attempting to feed the shrink wrap over the all thread rods before I figured out it must have gotten hot somewhere down the assembly line and it never going to fit. Its what they use to keep the all thread from unscrewing as jam nuts will cause binding. I can see that I can leave the rod and the shifter rod ends in place but will have to remove everything else to install. Its going to be fun putting that together between that fat 700R4 and the trans tunnel.

20190822_170301.jpg


20190822_170314.jpg


Thinking back, Jefe had a 700R4 with an Atlas and he used the rod type shifters. I don't think there is much difference in the floor between the first and second gen Explorers.
 


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I got the Atlas rod shifter that is made for the Explorer/Ranger about an hour ago. It took me about 30 minutes to mock it up on the bench. Most of that was trying to figure out which way the shifters went so they would end up straight in the truck. Then about ten minutes attempting to feed the shrink wrap over the all thread rods before I figured out it must have gotten hot somewhere down the assembly line and it never going to fit. Its what they use to keep the all thread from unscrewing as jam nuts will cause binding. I can see that I can leave the rod and the shifter rod ends in place but will have to remove everything else to install. Its going to be fun putting that together between that fat 700R4 and the trans tunnel.

View attachment 173029

View attachment 173030

Thinking back, Jefe had a 700R4 with an Atlas and he used the rod type shifters. I don't think there is much difference in the floor between the first and second gen Explorers.
Floors are the same.
 


BKennedy

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I installed the transfer case for the 10th time to check how the rod type shifter lines up. It doesn't. Having a different transmission in there is making things difficult. I need to shorten the shift tube 2.5-3" to get it near where the previous shifter was located and to get the shifter to clear a raised boss on the transmission housing. The shifter handles also do not get straight until the tower is up against the transmission and they will also interfere with the trans shifter. There is plenty of room under there, but I will need to modify the handles to get them straight.

I will have to mess with this some more tomorrow. I know I will get it figured out, but I thought getting the shifter kit specifically for a Explorer would make it easier. This kit appears to have been made for an Explorer that has the transfer case clocked at more of an angle, and no console.
Space to work with (you can see the part of the transmission the shifter handles hit);
20190823_105804.jpg


Why does AA polish all their aluminum stuff (shift tower)?
20190823_103358.jpg


Diagram of shifter assembly
e4ed384730ed597c3b53f89673eab1b8.jpg
 


BKennedy

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I got the shifters figured out and modified to fit right where I want them. I should have bought the universal rod shifter kit from the start. I had to nearly straighten the shifters to get them to line up. I shortened one about 2.5" and the other about 1.5". They are in the same spot the shifter was for the NP231, and sit a little lower. The front shifter is about 2" lower than the rear. I did that for a few reasons; I could move it a little closer to the rear shifter and having it lower keeps it off my knee. I also shortened the shift tube from 5.5" to 2.5" to get it in the right spot. It all functions, doesn't get in the way of my knee and I am a happy camper. I pulled the shifter assembly so it won't be in the way when I fix the floor, and I needed to paint the shift rods. I installed the Atlas, this time with sealant so its there for a while. The speedo cable fit with no issues, but just barely.

My list got a lot shorter and is mostly cosmetic. I need to fix the floor, seal it and then reinstall the interior, modify the skid plates, install the breather tube, and get the drive shafts modified to the correct length. Front needs to be 4" shorter than before, but the output is a little lower so I don't think it will bind at full droop. Rear needs to be 2.5" longer. I need to rebuild the front driveshaft because they wanted way too much money to do that (parts came in today). Rear was rebuilt last year.

Behold (isn't it beautiful….)
20190824_170850.jpg

I didn't like the way the washers pushed on the bushings so I stuck a piece of 1/4" plate between the bushings and mount.
20190824_173156.jpg

20190824_173354.jpg

Shifters before modifications.



20190824_112911.jpg


After
20190824_150708.jpg

Rear in Hi, front in N
20190824_150737.jpg


After I took these pictures, I bent the front shifter rod in a little more.
 
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BKennedy

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Forgot some pictures;

New, improved shift rods
20190824_170711.jpg

This is the Explorer shifter kit from Atlas. You can see how much I modified the shift rods.
303006L_WEB.jpg

Sasha hung out all day with me while I worked. She crawled under the truck while I was adjusting the shift linkage.
20190824_174524.jpg
 
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Rick

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What is the part that is to the right of the oval ring?

(edit)

I think that goes on the front of the shift rod?
 


BKennedy

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What is the part that is to the right of the oval ring?

(edit)

I think that goes on the front of the shift rod?
Correct, its called a "Shift Tower". The shifter rods mount to that thingie.
 


RockRanger

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Looking good. If the speedo cable ends up being to short you can get on from an Aerostar that might work. It is roughly 9 inches longer if I remember right with the same ends as the Ranger Explorer cable. I am running one in my ranger with my doubler.
 


BKennedy

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Thanks Matt.
The Atlas is about 3" shorter than the NP231 was so I had extra room. The gear driven transfer cases are shorter than the chain driven cases.
Before I ordered the Atlas II, I was going to get a Atlas 4, because who wouldn't want a Atlas with a doubler?? It would also lengthen my front drive shaft, taking away any possibility of it binding at full droop. When I called AA, I was told you cannot flat tow with a Atlas 4, so that plan was quickly abandoned.
 


BKennedy

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I went to rebuild my front drive shaft today. I had to knock the slip-yoke off with a hammer and its all jacked up. The axle end U-joint took more force than I liked to get the U-joints to seat. Then, on one of the ends of the double cardan joint, I could push both U-joint caps on by hand. I think I am going to call Tom Woods tomorrow and just order a entire new front drive shaft. When I rebuilt the rear drive shaft last year, it all went together smoothly so I am using that for reference.
 


410Fortune

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driveshafts sure have gone up in price over the last few years, the yokes and pieces are more expensive now, It used to be like $200 for a "re tube", U joints and balance, now its closer to $400
So I try to build my own front shafts when I can.....

You have done a great job here! A large under taking that is for sure.
There is something to be said for the $400 cable shifters I guess, they make install a whole lot easier.......
 

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BKennedy

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410, I ended up not using the cable shifters because they would not fit anywhere. I ended up modifying the "Explorer/Ranger" rod type shifters and they worked out great. I have to sell the cable shifter kit for a lot less than I paid now because it was partially installed. You interested?

I can get the rear shaft re tubed for $160 and its in great shape. I am going to call Tom Woods today or Monday and order the front shaft. Looking on line, they want about $350 for my front shaft.

Edit: I just ordered one with a 35* double cardan for $379 shipped. Locally, they wanted nearly that to rebuild and re-tube mine.
 
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