• Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^

Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread


BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
The wife had all of last week off, so the Explorer didn't get much of my time. She is working the rest of this week, which will give me time to finish up the Explorer. Spent most of this lovely hot and humid day working on the floor. I got the holes repaired, installed all the Kilmat and installed the shifters. I was going to just do the Kilmat under the front seats but ended up removing the rear seat and doing the entire floor. Its ready for me to put the carpet and interior back in, but I decided I was done for the day.

Before
20190904_113258.jpg

Hole was for wiring to OEM transfer case

20190904_113304.jpg

The round hole towards the dash is from the old cable shifter for the NP231, all the rest was me trying to get the cable shifter to fit.

After
20190904_121326.jpg

20190904_121330.jpg

It didn't have to be pretty because of the Kilmat

The Kilmat is the Federation of Russia's version of Dynamat and was available on Amazon with good reviews. Its basically some type of tar like substance bonded to very stretchable aluminum foil. There is a small learning curve, but it went down easy. It cuts easily with a POS pair of HF scissors. You can move it before you start to press it down, after that it bonds. You can just push it over the seat studs sticking out of the floor. I think it helped it was a hot day here, I imagine in the cold this stuff would suck. It came with a roller which helps it to seal. It does beat up your fingers where the roller doesn't fit, and its very time consuming. I ordered 50 square feet and ended up with about 1/4 of the box left over. I got the thinnest I could find, and ended up doubling it up across the transmission tunnel. I am very pleased with the end result. It was completely worth the effort to seal up the floor and maybe quiet down the road noise as well.
20190904_121337.jpg

20190904_165344.jpg

20190904_175747.jpg


Shifters mounted
20190904_175113.jpg

I don't think they will look this clean for very long

20190904_173541.jpg

Neutral front and rear. It took me a few tries to get them straight and aligned with each other.

Tomorrow I should have the entire interior reinstalled. The rear drive shaft should be ready by tomorrow, and the front is scheduled to be delivered by tomorrow as well. I should have a drivable Explorer again by Friday. I am going to get it together, and drive it for a while before I modify the skid plates.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Interior, DONE!!

I spent the entire day reinstalling the interior and the shift boot. The majority of the time was my center console and the boot. I installed the boot, then carefully cut slots in the carpet so it could fit over the boot. I didn't like the way it looked so I removed the boot, installed the carpet and mounted the boot on top. Much better! It also covers up the blackened bolt holes from the NP231 shifter. I used some more of the Kilmat and some rubber sheet I have to make rubber slots for the shifters to help seal the body as best as possible.

I had to get out my wiring diagrams to get the center console back together, sure glad I was detailed when I made them. Feels good to have it mostly done.

I really like how the shifters turned out. My leg only touches the front shifter when its in 4low. My old shifter did that and it didn't bother me.
20190905_171302.jpg

The front shifter looks like its much shorter than the rear, but its only about 1" shorter in actual length. The rest is how they are orientated on the shift tower.
20190905_171317.jpg

20190905_171408.jpg


All I have left is to refill the transmission with fluid and install the drive shafts. The Tom Woods drive shaft came in today, but my rear shaft isn't finished yet.
 
Last edited:








Kirby N.

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 6, 2001
Messages
2,250
Reaction score
70
City, State
Colorado Springs, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ranger
I am considering rhino lining my interior instead of carpet when mine goes back together. What do you think of that process Brian? Also, mine has that weird painted cracking floor liner stuff around the driver and passenger feet too. I noticed some of yours is removed- any pro tips on taking it out? I would imagine I need to take it all out for rhino.
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Those big chunks fell off when I was making a little room underneath with a hand sledge. When I used my shopvac to clean up the floor, I knocked all the loose stuff off with the nozzle. I followed that up with a flat bladed screwdriver and knocked off all the rest of the loose chunks. I laid that Kilmat over the top of the rest because it was still attached to the floor.

When I was putting in the cage, that floor sealant Ford used came right off with some brake parts cleaner. I sprayed it on and waited a minute and I could knock it off with a scraper after that. I also remember using a heat gun some spots. If you are having it Rhino Lined, ask whoever is going to apply it if they can go over the top of that stuff before you try to remove it. Might be able to leave it there for extra insulation.

I made the Explorer all pretty again. Its becoming counter-productive to make it pretty, beat it up, then make it pretty again. At least lately I have made the interior pretty, but not worried about the exterior that much. I don't want to cave in a door or panel, but don't mind a few dents/dings.

Edit: I picked up the rear drive shaft so all the parts are here to make it go. I will report back tomorrow.
 
Last edited:




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
The day did not go as expected. Installed the vent tube, no problems. I got all fancy with rerouting the transmission shifter cable to keep it away from the front output. That went great, but took much longer than I expected. I used the end of the transfer case shift tube for a clamp mount to get the transmission shifter cable where it needed to be. The idea came to me when I was putting a nylon insert lock nut on to make sure the nut holding the transfer case shifters in place didn't come loose.
20190907_112839.jpg

20190907_112908.jpg

Now the transmission shifter cable has nice radius curves at both ends. It used to have a sharp curve at the shifter end. Crawled around under the Explorer and zip-tied everything that needed zip-ties, and then some. I double them up in case of failure.

Mounted the rear drive shaft, no problem. Mounted the front drive shaft, no problem. Filled the transmission, started it for the first time in over a month and shifted it through all the gears. Transmission shifter is smoother and easier to shift with the new cable routing. Transfer case functions properly but with the 700R4 and a brand new case, its hard to shift when the engine is running. AA says to shift when the vehicle is moving slightly to help it, but its hard to do when you are already not moving and its in neutral. Hopefully, I will get the hang of it soon.

Then, I got out my trusty floor jack and a 18" piece of 6x6 I have lying around just for the purpose of jacking up the front suspension. I put it lengthwise on top of my jack, and jack the Explorer up by the front of the rock slider. The brand new front drive shaft I paid extra to have a 35* double cardan is binding with about 6" to go in rebound. Oh, Oh (I said something else, but this is a family forum). I jacked the Explorer up until the left front was a little off the ground and crawled under. Both of my angle meters showed 26*. I figured out what parts were binding and removed the drive shaft. I spent three hours breaking down, clearancing and rebuilding a perfectly good, brand new drive shaft. I was very careful with the U-joints because they are some special Tom Woods joints and I don't have any spares lying around. Got it all back together and repeated the install, jack, and check for binding. It was binding slightly at another place, but it would fully rotate. I removed it one more time, clearanced that part without having to break it down again and called it good without rechecking. Its outside waiting for the paint. What a pain to have to spend all day on a driveshaft I had custom made so I wouldn't have to spend any time with it. Almost funny that I had the rear shaft retubed and it bolted right up with no issues. It even has a better driveline angle with the longer shaft.

I was really stressing out about the possibility of having to clock the Atlas at more of an angle to allow the front driveshaft to function. At the rate I'm going, that would have taken me two weeks. I'm going to install the front drive shaft and back the Explorer out of the garage for a quick bath to get all the metal dust off. Maybe I will take it for a drive tonight or tomorrow afternoon, or maybe even Monday. But, hey, its a roller now.
 
Last edited:




Rick

Pumpkin Pilot
Staff member
Admin
Elite Explorer
Joined
February 8, 1999
Messages
32,103
Reaction score
1,013
City, State
Wayoutin, Aridzona
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XL Pumpkin Edition
Callsign
AB7FH
What in the world? So their double carden joint wasn't capable of as much misalignment as they advertised without mods?
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
What in the world? So their double carden joint wasn't capable of as much misalignment as they advertised without mods?
This is the first time I have purchased a drive shaft from Tom Woods. I paid an extra $50 for them to clearance their 30* double cardan to make it a 35*. After I took it apart, it appears all they did was smooth out the inside of the link yoke and grind a little off the outside edges. I had to grind down the underside of the socket and drive shaft yokes because the U-joints were contacting them. I would think that would be where to clearance the joint because there is a lot of metal there. That's how my other one was, and it lasted a long time.

I don't know, maybe the double cardan was at 35*, not the shaft.

I do like they extra long slip yoke. Its 6" long instead of the standard 3.5". At full rebound, there is still 3" of spline engagement. It sits at ride height with about 2.5" showing. They got that right.
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Got it outside, cleaned up the garage / work area, and washed all the metal dust off the Explorer. Drove it around the cul-de-sac and everything works. I had it in 1st gear and low range and it seems like it will be a very good crawler. Am going to go for a long drive around town in a few minutes to get all the parts used to each other.
20190909_131533.jpg


Edit: Lets talk tires. I know that going to 37's is not worth all the suspension mods to get there, but...I have seen a bunch of talk that the BFG MTR 35's are undersize compared to other brands. I can get a set of Goodyear MTR's from Discount Tire for $220 each. Are they larger in diameter than the BFG's because they look bigger mounted?? Specs say the Goodyears are 34.8" in diameter, while the BFG's are 34.5", not much of a difference. The BFG's KM2's I have now look small and are less than 1/4 worn, and they are getting noisy on the pavement.
 
Last edited:




RockRanger

Elite Ranger
Elite Explorer
Joined
January 14, 2001
Messages
6,209
Reaction score
176
City, State
Fresno CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
86 ranger no more
Callsign
KK6TDL
I have MTRs on my Ranger and Tracy Jeep. 37s and 33s. Overall I am happy with them. However I have noticed I have to air down a lot to get them to work. 6 psi in the Ranger and 8 in the Jeep.
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
That is a lot, I usually air down to 15-18 pounds. Matt, I remember your 37's look big for 37's

I put 75 miles on the Explorer today, all highway miles. The road noise is quieter. I did drive around Fiesta Island which has a large dirt area. I played around with the shifters and found its a lot easier to shift the transfer case in the dirt. Its also a lot easier to shift the front with the hubs locked. I had one of those aaaaahhhhhaaaaaa moments when I figured out that less rolling friction and a turning front axle means gears move easier. I think I chose correctly with the 3.8 low range. Its seems plenty low with the trans in 1st. It seemed that no matter how high the RPM's the Explorer was still not going to go over 7 MPH. Need to get it out in the rocks to really tell.

When I got home, I did notice the transfer case bottom cover is seeping slightly at one of the bottom corners. It was probably something I did when I tore down the case even though I used a new gasket. I will put the 500 break in miles on it, then when I replace the oil, I will replace that paper gasket with some good old fashioned ultra RTV. There is a drain plug on the bottom so using sealant shouldn't be problematic.
 




Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
Elite Explorer
Joined
February 18, 2009
Messages
5,270
Reaction score
539
City, State
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Limited V8
You guys end up with such nice trucks you must cringe at the rather large tree branches you scrape against, not to mention the massive boulders you slide against.

I love following yours, and others threads on using these trucks like they were meant to be used. The craftsmanship and ingenuity is amazing.
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Thanks for the compliments Dono. That picture was my Explorer's good side. I really don't like body damage and try to minimize it, but if it is part of getting to where I want to go I accept it. I also knock out the dents and touch up the paint as best I can when I get home. I was told by one of the more adventurous off-roaders with an Explorer (Josh), that mine will go anywhere his could go. I agreed, but said I just wasn't willing to kill it to get there like he was/is.

Most of the ideas I get for modifications have already been done or come from somebody else on the board. I do on occasion come up with my own way of doing things, but its usually based upon an idea I get from somewhere else.
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
I know I said I was going to drive it for a while before I redid the skid plates, but phase II:

After I fixed the dryer, and the barbecue, I had some free time on my hands. I set the rear skid plate (transfer case) in place and it was not even close to fitting. I cut a notch in the plate and bent it, then another notch and more bending and got it where I wanted it. I added some plate to the front to get it to line up with the new cross member. I am making this version so its doubled 3/16" plates for the front 8" of the plate for a total of 3/8" skid plate. This, and a few gussets, means I can keep it higher without fear of it contacting the transfer case. I figured out how to make both plates flush mounted instead of having the front plate overlap the rear plate like before. I will explain this as I go along because a few pictures when its finished will tell the story. I'm just glad I could reuse the old skid plates.

I also decided I want to add a torque arm to the transfer case / transmission mount just for peace of mind. I don't expect to have any problems, but am going to make sure the transfer case doesn't over torque the transmission bolts. I have that all planned out and will build the arm and modify the cross member when I pull it for the weld nuts to mount the skid plate. I have to work the next three days at KABOO in the Command Center, so this is all for now.

A few horrible pictures
Getting ready to cut up this beautiful piece of 3/16" plate
20190912_161503.jpg


Old skid plate with new bends
20190912_161509.jpg

New version but its hard to see what's going on with it. Its about 5" longer and 5 pounds heavier than the old version. After I get it all mounted I will pull it, paint it and set it aside until I drive the Explorer for 425 more miles to break in the transfer case.
20190912_174418.jpg
 




tdavis

Linux Guru, Jack of All Trades
Staff member
Admin
Elite Explorer
Joined
January 17, 2000
Messages
6,365
Reaction score
40
City, State
Pinole, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 F250/XLT Superduty
Callsign
KG6MAX
How did the 'boom' mat do for sound deading?
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
The mat worked fairly well. It dropped the noise down considerably.

I noticed that where the speedo cable goes into the housing that goes into the transfer case is seeping fluid. Is there a O-ring in there somewhere that I can replace? I have an interesting speedo cable setup, its a Jeep NP231 housing and the Explorer housing fits directly into it and its all sealed up with RTV. I need to take it apart and see what's leaking.
 




gmanpaint

It's Always Something!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
August 1, 2008
Messages
10,907
Reaction score
1,238
City, State
MO MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 & 95 XLT's
I dug out the Explorer speedo setup that came with my Atlas. It does have an O ring to seal it up. I was told that this is made by AA, and is a copy of the Dana 300 case speedo housing. (Make sure the fork clamp is tight) I no longer use this after going OBD2.

Atlas speedo housing with 35t gear and cable.jpg
 




BKennedy

Elite Loser
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 29, 2000
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
929
Location
USA
City, State
San Diego, PRofK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
The O-ring on the outer housing is sealing fine, its coming out where the cable goes into the top of the OEM housing. You interested in selling that to me, send me a PM?
 






Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.








Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
S let's see your steering box on gen 2 sas Offroad Projects 4
ovrlndr Jay's '92 SAS on F150's Offroad Projects 1
KurtECV The Black Pearl SAS and build Offroad Projects 362
G 2001 ex SAS project Offroad Projects 4
C Chato's '98 V8 Mountaineer SAS build Offroad Projects 4
9 2000 5.0 sas question Offroad Projects 3
F Dana 44 purchased, SAS questions! Offroad Projects 7
L SAS on tons and 40" Offroad Projects 2
SVO42 mushy brakes after SAS Offroad Projects 6
A 2005 sport trac Dana 30 sas (Version 2.0) Offroad Projects 24
madbutcher Madbutchers shitmachine sas Offroad Projects 93
1 D30 sas/soa Offroad Projects 4
F FullBlownModz Dana 44 SAS Build Offroad Projects 18
D Project "Twisted Sister" SAS Front Dana 44, Rear Ford 9" Offroad Projects 46
A Explorer SAS or not for daily driver? Offroad Projects 1
boominXplorer Superduty D50 axle for SAS? Give me your thoughts........ Offroad Projects 7
JTX JTX's Return! 1997 Mountaineer Build Thread SAS/4wd Conversion Offroad Projects 65
CodePoet 1st Gen SAS Toyota Steering Box?? Offroad Projects 3
W Woody's SAS Build Offroad Projects 4
MidnightRebel07 2003 Sport Trac - SAS, SOA started and here's a sneek peek. Offroad Projects 118
I Getting closer to my full width 3 link sas need some help Offroad Projects 5
T Ford explorer sas project Offroad Projects 5
Stic-o 2nd gen SAS steering rubbing on exhaust manifold Offroad Projects 17
A sport track dana 30 sas project Offroad Projects 97
R 2002 Sport Trac SAS rack/pinion Offroad Projects 4
jprentice94 1st gen explorer sas Offroad Projects 20
B SAS for 2002 ford ranger Offroad Projects 0
D dersch6221992 Dana 44 SAS, with a rear SOA Offroad Projects 18
T 99 Explorer 1 ton SAS Trail Machine Build Offroad Projects 10
W 99 mounty sas thread Offroad Projects 0
K SAS to do or not to do? Offroad Projects 4
blueka Pickle 2.0 - Full Width SAS/SOA 4406 swap Offroad Projects 208
D 01 Sport Trac SAS Offroad Projects 33
C 94 explorer. Need help with SAS Offroad Projects 1
Y YoungMounty's '97 Mountaineer SAS Build Thread Offroad Projects 14
N SAS with ABS? Offroad Projects 24
X xeek's full width sas Offroad Projects 74
Stang5lgt Bronco II SAS Dana 30/8.8.... Offroad Projects 7
C Rocky Mountain Ranger '92 SAS Offroad Projects 32
Stang5lgt Project Lazyboy SAS... Offroad Projects 277
M 94 Re-SAS....leafs to links Offroad Projects 7
jjaganashi Gauging interest on SAS Offroad Projects 10
jjaganashi SAS "Betsy" 1-ton Offroad Projects 90
M mjc79's sas project Offroad Projects 7
LIFTEDXPLODER96 oh ya know just another 2nd gen sas in the works Offroad Projects 34
1-MEAN-X Project Green Hornet '01 Sport SAS Offroad Projects 159
turboexplorer Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread Offroad Projects 965
D My no-budget 91 Sport SAS Offroad Projects 37
Four0Sport Jack's SAS version 3.0 Offroad Projects 270
C SAS leaf springs front Offroad Projects 2
Similar threads


















































Top