Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Stic-o]

Nevermind, I just ordered the 20" LED bar.

 

[BKennedy]

Are the flat spots of the upper and lower coils aligned?

No, I have them on opposed to each other on the spring guide. It seemed to keep the springs straighter that way.

 

[turboexplorer]

I run a normal premium rotor and EBC green stuff pads with the T-bird calipers. They stop my rig with 37's pretty well. I can shut down slightly better than it did stock with all motorcraft brakes. If anything I feel my rig could use a little more rear brake. I also run EBC green stuff pads on the rear.

 

[BKennedy]

I am going to try new rotors and pads and see what happens.

Had a great trip to Quartzsite Arizona, just got back. No problems with the Explorer except the front tires are rubbing slightly on the unused radius arm shock mounts. Should not take too long to cut them off. Started raining last night about 10. Rained continuously until about 9am, then on and off all the way home. Got me thinking about a custom tarp awning that would mount to the rear of the new roof rack I am planning. It would have to go over the open hatch and extend about 15 feet with poles to hold the other end up. Give me some working room in bad weather or no shade scenarios.

The Explorer usually spends most of its time rough camping with the hatch open

First night's camp site (got buzzed by a Border Patrol helicopter about midnight)

Second and third night on a mining claim

Mike took his wife's FJ because the Jeep would not hold all the stuff he brought to gold prospect.

Power steering pump and lines are looking good

Dirty Explorer

Why do dogs insist on stepping on these things?

20" flood beam light bar was waiting for me when I got home

Going to wait for the other light bar to arrive to install both at the same time.

Got stopped by a BP agent at a check point so he could ask me questions about the Explorer. He wanted to know what I have done to it, and how it compares to "something like a Jeep?" I told him I thought it does better than most Jeeps I have wheeled with due to the stability and longer wheel base. Then I showed him some flex shots on my phone while traffic backed up behind me. He kept asking questions about which axle I used, shocks, etc., for at least two minutes.

 

[BKennedy]

More Pictures

Wet desert

FJ's are so cute (especially with the "Lacrosse Mom" and flower stickers in the back window)

I am trying to talk Mike out of it, but he wants to sell the Jeep and fix up the FJ for a multi-use off-road vehicle. The Jeep does not have enough room to carry expedition or prospecting gear. I think the FJ is not a good choice for what he wants to do with it, mainly due to the front IFS suspension. He doesn't want to SAS it, which I think is his only choice if he wants to really wheel it, due to the high resale value of those cars. I think he should sell them both and get a Cherokee, 4-Runner or Explorer. He would end up with money left over if he found the right rig already built. I showed him this video I found on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_Gdhku_xAE You can see how much trouble the new FJ's are having compared to their older relatives with solid front axles.

 

[RockRanger]

The real question is how much gold did you find?

 

[Rick]

Poor Mike... He must have been overcome by the FJs new car smell

 

[Kirby N.]

I have wheeled with a decked out fj before. It was pretty mildly capable. The ifs is always going to be the limit. There's just not much travel up front. There's a guy in my neighborhood with one and it has every aftermarket bolt on part you could imagine. Bumpers, racks, lights, snorkel, everything. Then it has a "h2 recovery vehicle" sticker on the side. I am like, "ok that's appropriate." A jeep recovery vehicle or h1 recovery vehicle wouldn't be appropriate. My stock rubicon will go more places then his fancy fj and I have wheeled with some h1s that would too. Maybe I will get an fj recovery vehicle sticker for my ranger when it is done.

 

[BKennedy]

Maybe he should look for a built Rubicon 4 door?

On this mellow, easy off road trip, I drove up to look at a mine. The mine was not very deep so that usually means the miners did not find anything. I noticed what used to be a road down with a large washout at the top. I drove down into it and since I had not aired down, the rear slid into the washout and I was at a severe angle on the side of a hill. I think if I had the old TTB suspension, I would have rolled. As it was, I just turned downhill and drove out of it with all four wheels on the ground. Just goes to show that even on a easy trail trip, you can get into something where some suspension makes all the difference. Of course, I probably would not have tried that with the old suspension.

Matt, we found a little coarse gold in the side of a wash bank. The claim we had access to was pretty well played out. All of the stream beds were already cleaned out. Found what we think are two baseball sized meteorites, which are worth much more than gold. Heavy, melted magnetic rocks. The one I found was when I was clearing an area for my tent and kicked it out of the way. It felt heavy on my boot and I took a closer look.

 

[BKennedy]

I have wheeled with a decked out fj before. It was pretty mildly capable. The ifs is always going to be the limit. There's just not much travel up front. There's a guy in my neighborhood with one and it has every aftermarket bolt on part you could imagine. Bumpers, racks, lights, snorkel, everything. Then it has a "h2 recovery vehicle" sticker on the side. I am like, "ok that's appropriate." A jeep recovery vehicle or h1 recovery vehicle wouldn't be appropriate. My stock rubicon will go more places then his fancy fj and I have wheeled with some h1s that would too. Maybe I will get an fj recovery vehicle sticker for my ranger when it is done.

Just go park one of the Ranger's front tires on his hood when its finished.

 

[BKennedy]

I installed the LED light bars today as the spot showed up in the brown truck. Sure looks different, I need to get used to it. I have had the old lights for at least ten years.

The top is a 23" mostly spot 240 watt, bottom is a 20" flood, 126 watt.

Yes, I know, I need to clean up my garage..

I like how the lights are set back the width of the bar so they are protected. I can still drive forward until I hit something in the tight canyons. I took a pic of both lights on, but its just a very bright blur.

I should be able to get them out for a test tomorrow. Also need to see if anyone on Craig's List wants some older KC lights.

Forgot to mention; about half way through the Arizona trip the coil overs stopped making noise. I guess the secret to quiet coils is mud.

 

[FR-425]

Preeeeety.. .. ..

I think you should put the wider one on the bottom. Kinda looks upside down. . .

 

[BKennedy]

Preeeeety.. .. ..

I think you should put the wider one on the bottom. Kinda looks upside down. . .

The spots need to be as high as they can be for better range, and the floods need to be lower because I want to be able to use them on night runs while behind someone.

Maybe you should stand on your head, then they will look perfect.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Wow man, that does look completely different. If you don't like them I'll give you the address of a guy I know that would gladly take them off your hands as a donation. LOL

 

[Rick]

Looks great. They fit the square nosed 1st gen perfectly.

 

[Stic-o]

Did you get a chance to test them at night yet? If so how do you like them compared to the old halogens?

 

[BKennedy]

I did a inside the garage test and it took an hour for the red circles in front of my eyes to disappear. The spot LED bar has a very narrow beam so it should be good for some distance. I "bench" tested the flood light before install with it on top of the radiator pointing forward. I turned on the fog lights, then the LED. LED was much brighter, with a cleaner white light. My headlights look yellow in comparison.

I did not spend a bunch of money on these, they are ebay LED's. It was under $240 for both. One has a lifetime warranty, the other two years. US shippers so if I had to send them back, it would not be to China. I already feel better about the flood light because I emailed the seller concerns I had that the housing was not very well sealed where the wiring enters. I got a quick reply stating not to worry, it is very well sealed, and if water gets in, he will replace it.
Wiring was easy; used the wiring from the old lights.

New subject

I am in the planning stages for the new 3/4" EMT tubing roof rack. So far, the plan is: Remove old rack and OEM track (its pulling out of the roof anyway). Run new rack right along the body seams, using 1/4x20 bolts and these "well nuts" http://www.marshallshardware.com/products/productList.aspx?uid=2-411-191-232. Two nuts at each mounting location, four mounting locations on each side. They are a very sturdy mount. Same type of nuts, only smaller diameter, have been holding the solar panels on the roof of the RV for years. After mocking up rack, find another mostly spot LED light bar that fits in the width of the rack.

Is there any reason I should not mount it along the seam? By running it in the seam, I can keep it a full inch lower than outside the seam. I want to make it as low profile as possible and still hold my hi-lift (laying flat inside the rack, not outside like it is now) and light weight gear when necessary.

 

[Rick]

Mine was mounted in the seam with the well nuts. Yep, the Pumpkin used to have a roof rack...

 

[Kirby N.]

My only concern would be that the seam catches water and is full of seam sealer already. My ranger is cracking and leaky. It soaks the headliner sometimes. So if you drill in or near the seam/ gutter I would be concerned with messing up that seal and having water problems especially since the gutters and seams are already prone to leaks.

 

[Stic-o]

I made my mounts in the gutter for my light bar. I plan to use silicone and o rings on the bolts to help sealing. Luckily my truck spends most of it's life in the garage.