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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 


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BKennedy

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Looking it all over after it was done, I can see my idea of using shock towers instead of the more traditional hoops for the coil overs is not going to work. There is engine parts in the way of a tower because the frame is so narrow. The A/C unit would have to come out, and I want to keep that.

It looks like there is plenty of room for a hoop type mount.
On the left side of the engine, I will need to move the coolant and windshield washer bottle combo thingy (its a technical term), and take out the cruise control module. I haven't used it in several years so I won't miss it.
 


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james t

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I cant tell by the pics, but do you still have the 4WABS stuff under there? Getting rid of that opens up ALOT of room.
 




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I cant tell by the pics, but do you still have the 4WABS stuff under there? Getting rid of that opens up ALOT of room.

I was looking at all that junk and was thinking I might be able to stack both batteries in that area when it is removed.

My plan is to swap out the rear drums for the discs, do a little work on the rear and be done with that part of the build, then rip the front out and dive in. I can do the brake work while its still in the garage, then move it out to my side yard for the SAS. While it is in the deconstruction stage, the new wheels should come in and I can get my tires mounted for mock up.

I have a few technical questions for anyone who knows the answer;

Does anyone know about the axle offset that is normally used for road crown pull? Usually, the right wheel is forward slightly of the left wheel. My TTB has the right wheel forward nearly an inch from the left to keep it from pulling while on the highway. When setting up an SAS, do you place the right side forward of the left, or just even them out and not worry about it?

Does anyone know the exact length of a Jeep Wagoneer axle (long side)?
 




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I have a few technical questions for anyone who knows the answer;

I did stay at an Holiday Inn Express a few weeks ago..

Does anyone know about the axle offset that is normally used for road crown pull? Usually, the right wheel is forward slightly of the left wheel. My TTB has the right wheel forward nearly an inch from the left to keep it from pulling while on the highway. When setting up an SAS, do you place the right side forward of the left, or just even them out and not worry about it?

When I did the Navajo, I set it the same distance on both sides, and didn't worry about it.

Same with the Samurai's, they have always been identical on both sides (all solid axle front ends).
 




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I did stay at an Holiday Inn Express a few weeks ago..



When I did the Navajo, I set it the same distance on both sides, and didn't worry about it.

Same with the Samurai's, they have always been identical on both sides (all solid axle front ends).

Thanks.
I am off to San Francisco in a few hours. I will be flying up there tonight, coming back Sunday.
 




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mounty71

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Thanks.
I am off to San Francisco in a few hours. I will be flying up there tonight, coming back Sunday.

If you feel like wrenching on some trucks, let me know!
 




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You'll be hard-pressed to cut down the short side. I don't have exact length but my leaf spring u bolt is up against the housing and then the shock mount is almost touching the outside u bolt.

This is on a D44 from an 88 Grand Waggy
 




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I was looking at all that junk and was thinking I might be able to stack both batteries in that area when it is removed.

My plan is to swap out the rear drums for the discs, do a little work on the rear and be done with that part of the build, then rip the front out and dive in. I can do the brake work while its still in the garage, then move it out to my side yard for the SAS. While it is in the deconstruction stage, the new wheels should come in and I can get my tires mounted for mock up.

I have a few technical questions for anyone who knows the answer;

Does anyone know about the axle offset that is normally used for road crown pull? Usually, the right wheel is forward slightly of the left wheel. My TTB has the right wheel forward nearly an inch from the left to keep it from pulling while on the highway. When setting up an SAS, do you place the right side forward of the left, or just even them out and not worry about it?

Does anyone know the exact length of a Jeep Wagoneer axle (long side)?
Start about 1/3 of the way down on this page- http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227946&page=9 that should explain how to ditch the ABS pump(s) and what common fittings you'll need.

I set my front exactly square with no offset and it'll run 75mph with one finger on the steering wheel. I think the offset works better on IFS/TTB but has no effect on solid axles.
 




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Thanks, good info.
I need to wait until I get home on Sunday.

Mounty: If I had a day off I would help. Maybe next trip.
 




BKennedy

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Start about 1/3 of the way down on this page- http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227946&page=9 that should explain how to ditch the ABS pump(s) and what common fittings you'll need.

I set my front exactly square with no offset and it'll run 75mph with one finger on the steering wheel. I think the offset works better on IFS/TTB but has no effect on solid axles.


Thanks. I am planning on using one brake line to the front axle centered over the pumpkin.
 




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Thanks. I am planning on using one brake line to the front axle centered over the pumpkin.

Yea you'll have an easier time. The only reason I did it that way was I already had a pair of really nice stainless drop lines. I do prefer one centered line and then split down the axle housing.
 




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Yea you'll have an easier time. The only reason I did it that way was I already had a pair of really nice stainless drop lines. I do prefer one centered line and then split down the axle housing.

I also have a nice pair of stainless drop lines (I think they are Superlift). I am hoping to use them for the soft line between the axe and frame for both axles.
The rear soft line is a little too short and will eventually break if not replaced.

BC Broncos has replacement hard lines for both the full-width and EB axles, which will make it easy. If I decide to go with a custom length axle, I can get the full-width line and modify it to fit.
 




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I might not be able to work on the ex right now, but I am getting paid double time to watch Heart in concert. Saw Steely Dan last week. Good gig.
 








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Kiwis are winning it! Rain tonight/tomorrow..

Hopefully he's going to take the money and put it into this.. :)
 




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Brian, I just watched the vid of Heart doing Stairway:notworthy

Jimmy Page is looking like an old professor these days. I don't know about you, but I know I'm not getting older ;)
 


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Thought the cup was going to be over today but due to the multitude of rules the race was abandoned. Then Oracle won. Tomorrow is a new day. I wish America could keep the cup but also wish I could go home soon. If Oracle wins the wait would be worth it. A come back of come backs.
 




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