Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Dang glad the safety glasses did their job!

I hope the compressor shows up so you don't have to go through the trouble of nailing him.

The seller send me a message today stating he "mailed it out" with no further information. I wish sellers and vendors could understand customer service. Seems like no even returns emails anymore.

 

[Sævar Örn]

I'm too lazy to wear safety glasses and I admit it, it's a real shame. But after reading this, after work today I'm going to go and pick some heavy duty glasses that fit well and are comfortable, and some earprotectors aswell.

I like to use a face mask shield when I use a cut off wheel though,

 

[BKennedy]

I never liked the idea of using a Hi-Lift jack, and the factory jack is useless (too short). I have been eyeing the HF 4-Ton bottle jack for awhile now because it has a full 15" extension. Mostly due to a screw out extension on the head. This weekend I got a coupon for $12.99 and could not pass it up. It lifts the Explorer with very little effort as is, but just barely off the ground. Also don't like the 1" diameter head, doesn't seem that safe.

I fabbed up an extension with a "V" for the axle tubes to make is safer and more usable in off-road settings. I wanted to keep it as small as possible to be easy to store. After a little trial and error, I figured out the longest extension I could get under both axles was 4". I dug around in my metal pile and found some .120 wall DOM tubing that has an inside diameter of 1", fitting snugly over the jack screw extension head. I sleeved the inside with some 1" OD thick walled tubing to act as a stop. It stops the extension upon slight contact with the shoulder of the jack. I Sleeved the outside of the bottom portion of the extension so there would be no chance of it flaring out and getting stuck onto the jack's shoulder if for some reason the screw out extension was not fully extended prior to using the jack. It doesn't seem to have much wobble, is very strong, and should do the job.

It also fits where the original jack was stored.

I also don't like the cheap, wobbly handle that comes with the jack. Looking through the metal pile now for a new one.

 

[Rick]

I also carry a hydraulic jack, I need to copy your extension. Nice project

 

[BKennedy]

Could not find a piece of tube in the metal pile to fit well into the jack. Found a nice sturdy piece of thick walled, 3/4" OD tube that almost fit into the original handle tube. Split a section of the original handle lengthwise and hammered it onto the 3/4" tube. It widened out the original handle tube so it fits better into the jack. Hammered the other end down until if fit nicely onto the jack release knob. Its about 4" longer than the original two-piece, piece of you know what, doesn't hit the ground while pumping, is solid and fits next to the jack in the original jack location.

 

[RockRanger]

You will like the bottle jack extension. I built one for my 12 ton jack. It is way more stable. Only down side is that it could be too tall to get under the axle if you have a flat tire. I wasn't to worried about that because there is usually a rock or log or something laying around you can drive the flat onto then jack up from there and change the tire.

20150907_154711 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

20150907_162857 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

20150907_162833 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

 

[gmanpaint]

https://safejacks.com/collections/bottle-jack-accessories/products/universal-bottle-jack-base

 

[Stic-o]

I just carry some small 2x4's. I can always use them for warmth

 

[BKennedy]

https://safejacks.com/collections/bottle-jack-accessories/products/universal-bottle-jack-base

That's an expensive piece of plate.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yup. But you can make your own cheaper.

 

[Four0Sport]

ha! I stuck my bottle jack in the factory location also. Works great until you're scouring around in the dark trying to get it out.

 

[BKennedy]

This time, I blame you, Matt.
I was perfectly happy with my jack extension until I read this;

Only down side is that it could be too tall to get under the axle if you have a flat tire.

Found a piece of the 1" ID DOM and the other side of the 1/4" thick 2x2" square tube that I used for the extension I made yesterday, and a 1/4" thick 1" diameter plug I had in my "metal that I might need someday junk box". Fabbed up a new stabilizer for the jack that I can use if I get a flat, or on vehicles not blessed with 18" of ground clearance under the axle tubes...

Jack and accessories:

 

[Kirby N.]

You guys and your bottle jacks! I agree there is a place for one and they can be handy if for trail repairs, but I have to have my high lift. It has saved my butt so many times.
Like this time:

That is a come along on the front and a high lift on the back. Even with a winch I would have needed something on the back.

Or the many times I have jacked it up and kicked it off the jack to get over an obstacle I am high centered on.

Or a clamp. It's great for wrapping a tire with a chain and aiding air to seat a bead.

Or for breaking a bead.


I think I have developed a save lifting method with it- or maybe I am just familiar enough with when it is going to kill me and I need to get out of the way.

Anyway, I hope you are still hauling the old highlift.

 

[RockRanger]

I also have a bracket I made that bolts to the hilift. It grabs onto my sliders to make the jack much more stable.

 

[BKennedy]

I made one of those too, and I have a Hi-Lift mounted on my roof rack. Just don't like using it unless I have too.

 

[josh40601]

awesome work! I need to find a mount for my high lift. I may just use the roof now that I don't live in tree country anymore. Just worried about when I roll over what will happen to everything up on the top...

 

[BKennedy]

awesome work! I need to find a mount for my high lift. I may just use the roof now that I don't live in tree country anymore. Just worried about when I roll over what will happen to everything up on the top...

Just don't roll over......

 

[josh40601]

Just don't roll over......

I know it is inevitable with the plans I have for Ex.

Do you have any suggestions on where to mount it inside? I was thinking along the bottom of the roof in the middle from the back of the truck towards the front mounted to the interior cage (which is currently non existent, but will be added very shortly). I'm just worried about passengers knocking themselves out

 

[BKennedy]

My roof rack build starts on page 40 of this thread. I don't know where you would mount one inside your vehicle.

 

[Stic-o]

My hi lift is mounted behind the 2nd row to the cage. It's a pain to get out, so I try to just leave it as decor.