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bleeding slave cyl. again

Arnold D.

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December 22, 1999
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City, State
Kansas City
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT
I read the posts on bleeding the slave and went thru the procedures on this site and I'm still having trouble with my clutch. I replaced the clutch and slave, put it back together and hit the pedal with the quick disconnect off....the pedal was hard. I went on to bleed the slave 10-12 more times before finally getting the truck into gear without grinding, then on the road test, it acts up again. It's hard to put into any gear and grinds sometimes. What's next? More bleeding? Also, is there a perferred bleeding technique? I've tried opening the bleeder, then pressing the pedal to the floor before closing it off, then I've tried only opening the bleeder when the pedal is to the floor.
 






mikeh

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St. Louis, MO
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98 XLT SOHC V6
I just finished bleeding my wife's Honda so it's a little different but the same concept.

1. First I took all of the fluid out with a turkey baster.

2. Then Wipe out the container with a clean rag.

3. Add new Dot 3 brake fluid to the container.

4. Had her press down the clutch pedel a few times and hold.

5. I opened the nipple and let it drain into a clear plastic bottle with a little fluid in it. I attached a small clear hose to the nipple.

6. Then close the nipple BEFORE she releases the peddle.

7. Have her pull the peddle back up and pump a few more times and repeat from number 5.

I knew I was done when I got clear fluid through the hose.

Also make absolutely sure that you don't drain the container too much while bleeding or you will get air in the line and have to start all over again
:mad:

Honestly your problem could be a bad slave cylinder or throwout beering or a bad fork. I doesn't nessessarily sound like a bad bleeding job.

Good Luck,
Mike H.
 






Gary Steeber

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'93 Sport, '00 Tacoma
Arnold,
I changed my slave and Master last month.
At first I had a bad time bleeding. Just couldn't get the pressure to come up. I then pumped the pedal rapidly 100 times and the pressure started to come up fairly good but the pedal was still a little low, just like you say your is, hard to shift, too much play. Rebleed it again then I drove it for one week to work and back then I rebled it one time and now it feels great.
Just be patient and follow the Haynes book bleeding procedure. Pump about 5 times then hold down and have someone loosen the bleeder and then tighten the bleeder before you release the pedal. A few times like that and you should be set to go.
 






Arnold D.

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December 22, 1999
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Kansas City
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96 XLT
It's getting a little better each time I bleed it but I still see air bubbles. A mistake I was making was pushing the pedal almost to the floor before opening the valve. The cluth pedal has very little mechanical play, once you push it the fluid begins to move almost immediatlely and the pedal doesn't really "bottom out" until the pedal is to the floor. When bleeding brakes, the pedal stops when the shoes/pads are in contact with the drum/rotor...opening a brake bleeder then sends the pedal to the floor as fluid is expelled. I don't suspect a problem with the parts I bought, the clutch is a Luk and the slave is a Wagner...both good brands.
 






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