Blend door actuator gear missing teeth (picture) | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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Blend door actuator gear missing teeth (picture)


Active Member
July 5, 2006
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'98 xlt 4x4
Well after reading all the great info on blend door problems I decided to tackle mine.
This is what I found, a small gear with a couple broken teeth. I took the little motor out and tested it with a 9 volt battery and the motor still runs fine. in both diretions. But when I hook it back up to the harness and mess with the temperature buttons the motor doesn't even seem to be getting any voltage.
I checked all the fuses in the explorer and did not find any faulty ones.
now I am scratching my head...

I can replace the broken gear or the entire actuator box but I have a feeling this wil not fix the problem since I can't get the motor to react while plugged into the explorer harness.
Is ther a way to permanently set my blend door on cold since I never use the heater anyway? I just want to get my AC runing cold again. It is stuck on high heat.

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Did you ever get your actuator to work? Mine still does not, even after trying three different head units and another actuator (brand new). If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

If the EATC module detects a fault in the actuator (eg if it doesn't move properly or if there's a short somewhere in the circuit), it will disable the actuator. It tests the actuator whenever all power is removed and restored (eg disconnecting battery or removing unit) or force the unit to run a self test (below). If an error has been detected, the unit must be reset to clear the codes and get the actuator to move again (either remove power or force self test).

joey_hv - you can probably grab a used one from the junk yard to replace just that gear (the gears should be the same in both manual and EATC versions). It will need to be replaced though.

Here's how to run the EATC self test:

Press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.

At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.

The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.

At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.

If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test.

If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:

022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted

025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly

030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)

031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)

040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)

041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)

050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted

It's almost like you took a picture of mine.

I repaired mine by buying a used broken one from a junk yard and using the gear in that one.

THEN: Turn the ignition to on, turn off the EATC, hold floor and off, the press the automatic button, this should display a little moving green block, once it's done it will display 024 or 025. Press the defrost button which resets the EATC.

I did it today and only spent $5

Can you convert a manual one to eatc

Sounds like a challenge TonyRoc. Go to a junkyard and buy an EATC module, Sunload Sensor, ambient air temperature sensor and bracket, rear console blower relay electronic door actuator motor, blower motor relay, blower motor speed controller, vehicle speed sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, powertrain control module, and the steering wheel buttons.

It would be a big task but not impossible as far as I understand it. I wish mine had the manual version however. There is just fewer things to break.

Good luck!

Lol sounds too complicated for me to care. However having all the buttons and screens would be cool :)

Has anyone tried to get the gears from OEM?

Great pic. The OEM did this one right. The actuator snaps apart easily to allow those cheapy, stripped plastic gears to be replaced for probably $0.02 each. And that is exactly what will happen if you shell out the $60-100 that the dealer charges for a new actuator when you hand in your old one - it will get "refurbished" with new gears and subsquently resold.

How about we eliminate the middle man (and cost). The inside of my actuator also says "Johnson" and (I think) has the same part number. Has anyone tried to contact "them"? After posting this I FOUND the company:

Johnson Electric Automotive 755 Bill Jones Industrial Drive
Springfield, TN 37172-5014
Phone:(615) 384-8555

Their website has the identical logo as to what is shown on the pic above and also appears on my part. I am going to follow up and see if they will "make this issue right". Wish me (us) luck!

Same gear broke on mine. I have bought a new actuator from dealer - 45USD. the Dorman ones won't work for ETAC and the gears inside them are different sizes than OE.