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Blend Door Actuator w/automatic controls

koda2000

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koda2000

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'00 Mountaineer with EATC (automatic HVAC controls) blend door actuator.

Has anyone had any luck with the AutoZone blend door actuator listed below. It doesn't look the same as mine. Mine has 4 holes (but only 3 retaining screws).

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...0/8-cylinders-p-5-0l-efi/852312_970596_18453/

The one below looks more like mine, but it's for the manual HVAC controls.

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...0/8-cylinders-p-5-0l-efi/852313_970695_18453/

I did some further research and apparently none of the Dorman actuators work with the EATC controls. I took my actuator apart and tested the motor and the motor works using a 9 Volt battery. I'll check the circuit board tomorrow. If it fails I guess I'll try Tasca Ford Parts.
 




SoNic67

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'00 Mountaineer with EATC (automatic HVAC controls) blend door actuator.

Has anyone had any luck with the AutoZone blend door actuator listed below. It doesn't look the same as mine. Mine has 4 holes (but only 3 retaining screws).
I had to buy the dealer one because none of Dorman ones worked on my ETAC.
The replacement had a removable plastic "tray" that I didn't use in my truck. It was for "snap-in" type of install instead of the stupid bolts. Even today I am missing the rear-most bolt to the actuator, didn't fell that was needed and saved my sanity.
BTW, I had to use a 8mm wrench cut in half to remove that bolt.
 




koda2000

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I had to buy the dealer one because none of Dorman ones worked on my ETAC.
The replacement had a removable plastic "tray" that I didn't use in my truck. It was for "snap-in" type of install instead of the stupid bolts. Even today I am missing the rear-most bolt to the actuator, didn't fell that was needed and saved my sanity.
BTW, I had to use a 8mm wrench cut in half to remove that bolt.

I know, that rear bolt is a total PITA. I made the below tool when I changed the manual actuator on my ST, so I also used it on the Mountaineer. Getting the rear bolt out is a pain, putting it back in is even harder, but doable with my tool.

I wish I could be 100% sure the problem is the actuator (and not the controls) before buying a new one. Come to think of it, I can just unplug the actuator from my other '00 Mountaineer and stick the plug into the questionable actuator to see if the shaft moves with the EATC temp setting. I know the motor works, but I don't see how the circuit board works. It's just a small printed board with no electronics other than the motor. I was just going to test the strips for continuity. There are 8 wire connections and 8 fingers on the gear that's part of the shaft. I hate not knowing how something so apparently simple works.

My tool: Ratcheting wrench, socket adaptor and cut down socket.
115_0061_zpsi4w7ktwz.jpg
 




SoNic67

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koda2000

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Well, it's either a stripped gear inside actuator or a broken door shaft.
Did you perform the self-test?
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/eatcswap/selftest.html

No I haven't performed the EATC self-test, but there are no stripped gears in the actuator and the blend door is fine. This is the same thing that happened with the manual actuator in my ST. The motor worked and mechanically it looked ok, but replacing the actuator solved the problem. I'll be testing the actuator in the other Mountaineer today. If it works then I'll look at the EATC.
 




SoNic67

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The actuator has a feed-back potentiometer that informs the controller (ETAC) about the actual position of the door.
When performing the test, the door is moved fully and the controller reads the "max" and "min" values of that potentiometer.

What happened also in my Sable was that the "sunload" sensor went bad. That affected the automatic lights and the ETAC. Replacing that sensor solved some glitches (the heat was not turning "off" unless I was going up to 90F and then down).
 




koda2000

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The actuator has a feed-back potentiometer that informs the controller (ETAC) about the actual position of the door.
When performing the test, the door is moved fully and the controller reads the "max" and "min" values of that potentiometer.

I knew it used a potentiometer, I guess that's what the metal fingers on the shaft gear do as the shaft swings the blend door open/closed.
 




SoNic67

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Enough lollygagging, since today I am off work, I need to go outside and change the brake pads on my Sable and the front sway bar bushings on my Explorer :D
 




koda2000

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Enough lollygagging, since today I am off work, I need to go outside and change the brake pads on my Sable and the front sway bar bushings on my Explorer :D

Well, best get crackalakin then. I'm gonna have another cup of coffee.
 




koda2000

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Tested the blend door actuator on my other Mountaineer and it worked. Tried it again in the ailing Mountaineer and it doesn't work. So apparently the problem is in the EATC control unit. I didn't bother running the self-test on the EATC as I've run the test before and it's told me nothing.

As the EATC controls have never worked properly in this truck since I bought it, I bought a used EATC off eBay for $50 (tested good w/a 30 day warrantee). Hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'll have a spare EATC.
 




SoNic67

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Well, best get crackalakin then. I'm gonna have another cup of coffee.
I am fighting this stupid Lower Ball Joint. It won't separate from the Control Arm. Broke my pickle fork already, rented the press tool from AAP... it's not budging. A 20-30 minute job on the way to became 2 hour nightmare.
 




scottfab

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Tested the blend door actuator on my other Mountaineer and it worked. Tried it again in the ailing Mountaineer and it doesn't work. So apparently the problem is in the EATC control unit. I didn't bother running the self-test on the EATC as I've run the test before and it's told me nothing.

As the EATC controls have never worked properly in this truck since I bought it, I bought a used EATC off eBay for $50 (tested good w/a 30 day warrantee). Hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'll have a spare EATC.

Do check the blend door pivot points. They are the weak link and break often.
Rebuild kits are available from "Door" or some company very close to that name.
Scott
 




SoNic67

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I have one of those redesigned doors somewhere in my garage, it's better designed (metal shaft) than the OE one that tends to break at those points.
I didn't need it in the end, in my case it was a broken gear.
 




koda2000

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I am fighting this stupid Lower Ball Joint. It won't separate from the Control Arm. Broke my pickle fork already, rented the press tool from AAP... it's not budging. A 20-30 minute job on the way to became 2 hour nightmare.

I find beating on the knuckle with my BFH usually helps to pop them free. It distorts the taper just enough to release it. It works every time on coil spring ball joints. Leave the nut on a few threads and smack away at the knuckle.

if I recall, when I did mine I used either a large 2-jaw puller or my pitman arm puller (whichever fit) to put the knuckle and bj under tension, then one or 2 whacks with the hammer an it was free.
 




koda2000

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Update:
Received my used EATC unit yesterday and installed it today. Blend door actuator now works and I'm getting controlled TEMP again.

The old EATC unit never worked very well. This one has restored most of the air flow directional control, but the DEFROST option still doesn't direct the majority of the air flow to the windshield vents. Anybody know where that actuator is located? I presume it's a vacuum motor. Is it the thing over the gas pedal area?
 




koda2000

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bump
 




SoNic67

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There are three vacuum actuators.
Similar to this:
2011-07-18_022209_2.png

2011-07-18_022217_3.png
 




koda2000

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There are three vacuum actuators.
Similar to this:
2011-07-18_022209_2.png

2011-07-18_022217_3.png

Ah, finally. I've asked about these actuators/vacuum motors at least 3 times before and never got an answer. That's the one I was thinking might be it. Thanks.

BTW, what does actuator "7" do?
 


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SoNic67

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That's the blend door electric actuator.
 




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