Blend Door Actuator

[J. Jones]

I still have to figure out the blend door actuator and where it is located. Being new to all this with the 2nd Gen 96 explorer EB. How hard is it to replace the blend door actuator? I have been told by a mechanic I know that the whole dash has to be taken out to fix it.

I want to know as much as I can get info wise before I tackle it or take it to a shop. Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from a 96 Explorer EB owner newbie

 

[koda2000]

It's located, behind the glove box and it sits on top of the heater box. 3 screws/bolts hold it on. The rear bolt is a major pain in the ass to get at, but I've replaced 3 actuators (if that's your problem and not the blend door itself). It's easy to replace the actuator other than the rear screw and you do not need to remove the dash.

If your problem is a broken blend door, which is also pretty common, your can remove the dash to replace it, but there are other options (cutting a hole in the heater box). When the problem is the actuator, you usually hear a clunking noise from the actuator because the plastic gears inside are stripped.

Note: if you have the electronic automatic temp controls AKA EATC (which I believe all EB's had) you need the "automatic" actuator not the "manual" version.

I also once had the issue be in the EATC module (not sending a signal to the actuator)

 

[MAS Tequila]

And...

I replaced my actuator about three yeas ago.

I did not put the rear screw back in, and it hasn't caused me any issues.

 

[koda2000]

And...

I replaced my actuator about three yeas ago.

I did not put the rear screw back in, and it hasn't caused me any issues.

I agree. The next one I have to change will not get the rear screw put back in. The 2 front screws and good old gravity keep it in place just fine.

 

[J. Jones]

Koda2000

The only problem I have with that is you can not hear anything. THe heater has been not working for the family member that owned it before me for almost 7 year they said. I know the blower motor works fine. Needless to say I have no heat or ac. and I was reading some of the comments on others and was thinking about doing the hole cutting thing and just replacing both the actuator and blend door at the same time. At least this way I know that they are both good working parts

 

[koda2000]

Koda2000

The only problem I have with that is you can not hear anything. THe heater has been not working for the family member that owned it before me for almost 7 year they said. I know the blower motor works fine. Needless to say I have no heat or ac. and I was reading some of the comments on others and was thinking about doing the hole cutting thing and just replacing both the actuator and blend door at the same time. At least this way I know that they are both good working parts

If your problem was the actuator or the blend door you'd get heat or A/C, but not both and perhaps hear noise. Your problem may be in the EATC module itself and not the actuator or blend door. The module controls all heat, A/C and ail direction control. Have you checked all the fuses? There are self tests that can be done on the EATC module and you can have it rebuilt for around $100. Google the Ford EATC module self test for the test procedure.

 

[410Fortune]

Try the self test proceedure first
The EATC will run a series of tests and report back to you some codes if it is not able to control the actuator
Do not cut a hole in the box unless you absolutely have to
usually i can fix a blend door with a split or broken axle shaft (the plastic bit the actuator plugs into and turns) by using a finishing nail through the plastic part of the blend door motor.
First run the test, and report back
You will need a dental mirror and a flashlight to check the condition of the top of the blend door motor "axle shaft"
I have fixed so many of these things its silly
Dealer charges $1200+ to pull the dash and replace the whole assembly, here in my shop we charge $500 and do it in one day the whole dash can come out in less then an hour

 

[J. Jones]

koda2000

Ford EATC module self test for the test procedure. I watched a youtube video on how this was done. proceeded to go do it.

According to my explorer the 2 code numbers it threw at me was 024 and 125. According to the info on the video and the self diagnostic page both. 024 is a blend door failure.

But I find nothing about 125 on the codes. And the video does not say anything about it either. So I guess I am looking to fix my blend door and then dig deeper into the other code.

 

[koda2000]

koda2000

Ford EATC module self test for the test procedure. I watched a youtube video on how this was done. proceeded to go do it.

According to my explorer the 2 code numbers it threw at me was 024 and 125. According to the info on the video and the self diagnostic page both. 024 is a blend door failure.

But I find nothing about 125 on the codes. And the video does not say anything about it either. So I guess I am looking to fix my blend door and then dig deeper into the other code.

The EATC controls the blend door actuator, which opens/closes the blend door. Running the EATC self test and seeing "024 blend door failure" makes me think the problem is in the EATC module and not necessarily the actuator or blend door. I may be wrong, but I don't see how the EATC can diagnose anything except itself.

The first problem I experienced with the blend door in a 2000 Mountaineer was that it was not operating. I pulled the actuator and adjusted the EATC to max hot and cold and saw that it produced no movement in the actuator. I swapped the actuator with one out of an identical 2000 Mountaineer and still saw no movement. At the time the actuator was removed I could feel and operate the blend door easily by hand, proving it was not broken. I then bought a used EATC module off eBay and installed it and then the blend door actuator worked. Just saying I'd do some more diagnosis before blindly replacing the blend door. I do not recall what the EATC self test diagnostics told me. Replacing the EATC module is easy, I'd rate it a 1-wrench job on a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult).

 

[410Fortune]

Code 024 means it tried to move the actuator and something happened before it could make a full open and close
This points to a stripped gear in the motor, or a problem with turning the motor full open and full closed (obstruction in the door itself)
I would remove blend door motor from airbox and leave it plugged in, run the self test again and watch the motor. Chances are it will turn a certain amount and stop
It should turn...stop, turn backward, stop.
The nylon gears inside strip out.
You can buy a dorman replacement they are hit or miss. You MUST get the correct replacement actuator for a 96 with electronic controls. In the past I have used the nylon gear from the dorman replacement to fix the factory part instead of installing the dorman part. With the 96 EATC it can be very difficult to get the correct motor from Dorman.......but they all have the gear you need!

If the actuator moves both directions fine and no core is returned while doing self test with the MOTOR OFF OF THE AIRBOX...then you may have an issue with the blend door itself.
FYI many times the gear will strip because the door will not move back and forth freely or the shaft the door rides on is broken.

After the repairs are complete you must CLEAR THE CODES or the EATC will not even attempt to move the motor again

Turn the ignition to on, turn off the EATC, hold floor and off, the press the automatic button, this should display a little moving green block, once it's done it will display 024 or 025. Press the defrost button which resets the EATC.

Here is what the nylon gear looks like when it strips out

Here is the test:

Key on, engine running: Press OFF and FLOOR simultaneously, then press AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. The EATC will have to run some tests and do some thinking. It may take up to 30 seconds. Soon it may display some codes. Write these down. To exit self test press DEF

EATC System self test error code list

024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test

025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration

030 Self test indicates automatic temperature control sensor shorted

031 Self test indicates automatic temperature control sensor open

040 Self test indicates ambient sensor short

041 Self test indicates ambient sensor open

042 Ambient sensor intermittent short

043 Ambient sensor intermittent open

050 Self test indicates sunload sensor short

052 Sunload sensor intermittent short

115 Intermittent engine coolant temperature signal

125 Intermittent vehicle speed signal

888 End of test

EATC outputs are not tested. The EATC is not capable of "reporting on itself" as faulty. You may get inaccurate reports if EATC module is bad.

 

[Mesozoic]

Maybe folks that are complaining about the rear bolt on the actuator have much larger hands than I, but probably not. I think the issue is if you don't have the right tool. If I recall, I used either a short 1/4" ratchet with 8mm socket or one of those flat "aviation" ratcheting wrenches to get the rear one tight. I've not had any issues with a new Motorcraft replacement unit in 3 years since I replaced it.

 

[J. Jones]

Koda2000 & 410Fortune:

Just fyi I have removed the blend door actuator. Ran another self test with it plugged in, needless to say I could feel the motor turning inside but there was no movement on the outside. I have it all apart and 410Fortune was right when he stated the gear was bad. I have it taken apart now and setting on the entertainment center till the new one comes. Even if it ain't the one I need accroding to you 410Fortune I can still use the gears.

I want to thank you both for the information and input. It has been very helpful and most definitely I have learned something new.

Thanks again from a 96 Explorer EB owner,

 

[Georgia_Birdman]

How can I get the little gear that strips out?

 

[koda2000]

How can I get the little gear that strips out?

Buy a new actuator.

 

[Georgia_Birdman]

Buy a new actuator.

I had a feeling that would be the answer. Thanks.