Blend door acyuator blues

[brownie64]

I bought a blend door actuator from Dorman, it was the one for the EATC unit and the one it called for, but there was a extra part that had to be removed it looked like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SF0YD6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

The one that looks like the one I need says it is for the manual unit. It looks like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-20...sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FRYR76KNA0F31PHAHV7 Needles to say the previous didn't work and broke. IT would move as I changed the temp. but didn't know where to stop it just kept going past its limits. I sent it back, and now I don't know what to do. Was the blend door actuator junk? or actually the wrong part? Has anyone had this issue. Any help would greatly be appreciated, and thanks in advanced for your help. This site was a great idea.

 

[koda2000]

I bought a blend door actuator from Dorman, it was the one for the EATC unit but there was a extra part that had to be removed it looked like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SF0YD6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

The one that looks like I need says it is for the manual unit. It looks like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-20...sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FRYR76KNA0F31PHAHV7 Needles to say the previous didn't work and broke. IT would move as I changed the temp. but didn't know where to stop it just kept going past its limits. I sent it back, and now I don't know what to do. Was the blend door junk? or actually the wrong part? Has anyone had this issue.

I believe I have a blend door/actuator problem in my '01 ST. I get zero heat, but both heater hoses are hot to the touch. I have the manual HVAC controls. I don't hear anything when I turn the TEMP control knob up, so I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the blend door. Did your old actuator make any noise (clicking or vacuum related hissing)?

 

[joecrna]

Do you have the manual (one with knobs you turn) or the EATC (one with digital readout)? The 604-202 is the correct one for my manual unit. Just put it in 2 weeks ago. Works fine.

 

[koda2000]

I believe I have a blend door/actuator problem in my '01 ST. I get zero heat, but both heater hoses are hot to the touch. I have the manual HVAC controls. I don't hear anything when I turn the TEMP control knob up, so I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the blend door. Did your old actuator make any noise (clicking or vacuum related hissing)?

Do you have the manual (one with knobs you turn) or the EATC (one with digital readout)? The 604-202 is the correct one for my manual unit. Just put it in 2 weeks ago. Works fine.

OP said he has the ETAC controls.

 

[brownie64]

????

Do you have the manual (one with knobs you turn) or the EATC (one with digital readout)? The 604-202 is the correct one for my manual unit. Just put it in 2 weeks ago. Works fine.

I have the electronic automatic temp. control. But the actuator that it calls for has an extra mounting bracket attached to it for some reason. It needs a housing like the manual actuator to fit. I'm wondering if the actuator is made for the newer Explorers hence the new mounting bracket. But the add says it is for a 1997 ford explorer. Do you think I should try a manual one even though I have the EATC?

 

[koda2000]

I have the electronic automatic temp. control. But the actuator that it calls for has an extra mounting bracket attached to it for some reason. It needs a housing like the manual actuator to fit. I'm wondering if the actuator is made for the newer Explorers hence the new mounting bracket. But the add says it is for a 1997 ford explorer. Do you think I should try a manual one even though I have the EATC?

Goggle Dorman Support for their 800 number and give them a call. I did when I was trying to replace my MACH radio display board. Turned out their board will not work with the multi-disk CD changer.

 

[brownie64]

Goggle Dorman Support for their 800 number and give them a call. I did when I was trying to replace my MACH radio display board. Turned out their board will not work with the multi-disk CD changer.

Called the guy and he informed me that all EATC actuators have this extra mounting plate. So no help there he wanted the part number of my old one, and like a real idiot I threw it away didn't think I needed it anymore. So I guess I'm SOL. Was doing some research and found out that in the year my Explorer was made (1997) the Ford company mixed up some auto temp. blend doors with manual actuators, and vies versa and refuse to make it right so I'm not sure there is a blend door out there to fit my truck without major surgery. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[brownie64]

Blend door

I believe I have a blend door/actuator problem in my '01 ST. I get zero heat, but both heater hoses are hot to the touch. I have the manual HVAC controls. I don't hear anything when I turn the TEMP control knob up, so I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the blend door. Did your old actuator make any noise (clicking or vacuum related hissing)?

I wrote a post to this but it must of got lost???? Yes I did hear a noise it was a clicking noise, and the car would only blow out heat. Mine was behind the glove box. I think newer models are located behind the center console not sure what year they changed it. Doesn't matter if your car is heated up if it is stuck on the cool side it will only through out cold air. Mine was stuck on the hot side. If your bled door actuator is behind the clove box don't let a mechanic tell you they have to take the whole dash apart to fix it, and charge you a $1,000.00 plus. It's a real pain because of the space constraints but with a lot of patience you can reach it and get it off yourself without taking everything apart. It's the bolt in the back that sucks, I didn't put it back I think the two bolts are sufficient enough to hold it.

 

[koda2000]

I wrote a post to this but it must of got lost???? Yes I did hear a noise it was a clicking noise, and the car would only blow out heat. Mine was behind the glove box. I think newer models are located behind the center console not sure what year they changed it. Doesn't matter if your car is heated up if it is stuck on the cool side it will only through out cold air. Mine was stuck on the hot side. If your bled door actuator is behind the clove box don't let a mechanic tell you they have to take the whole dash apart to fix it, and charge you a $1,000.00 plus. It's a real pain because of the space constraints but with a lot of patience you can reach it and get it off yourself without taking everything apart. It's the bolt in the back that sucks, I didn't put it back I think the two bolts are sufficient enough to hold it.

I'm pretty sure my actuator is still behind the glove box. No way I would pull the dash (let alone pay someone to do it). As I said, mine makes no noise at all, so I'm hoping it's just the actuator. If your blend door is the problem, there's a STICKY on the regular Explorer forum on how/where to make an access hole in the heater plenum to replace it w/out removing the dash.

 

[brownie64]

I'm pretty sure my actuator is still behind the glove box. No way I would pull the dash (let alone pay someone to do it). As I said, mine makes no noise at all, so I'm hoping it's just the actuator. If your blend door is the problem, there's a STICKY on the regular Explorer forum on how/where to make an access hole in the heater plenum to replace it w/out removing the dash.

No its the actuator because I'm manually moving the blend door now I just took the gear out of the bad actuator, and move it to hot in the winter, cold in the summer. The problem I am having is the actuators that go to the EATC have an extra mounting plate on them that will not bolt to my blend door housing. If you take the plate off it will fit, but it begs to ask the question why all EATC have this extra mounting plat but mine. And does this have anything to do with the reason the actuator didn't work. And now the EATC was turning the A/C on as long as I used the max A/C button, but now it is not. I have a bad feeling my EATC is not working properly. Is there a sending unit on the EATC that is supposed to tell the clutch to start, and if so can it be fixed without replacing a very expensive EATC unit. I hope you or someone can shed some light on this. Clutch works because it can be jumped through the relay. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance.

 

[koda2000]

No its the actuator because I'm manually moving the blend door now I just took the gear out of the bad actuator, and move it to hot in the winter, cold in the summer. The problem I am having is the actuators that go to the EATC have an extra mounting plate on them that will not bolt to my blend door housing. If you take the plate off it will fit, but it begs to ask the question why all EATC have this extra mounting plat but mine. And does this have anything to do with the reason the actuator didn't work. And now the EATC was turning the A/C on as long as I used the max A/C button, but now it is not. I have a bad feeling my EATC is not working properly. Is there a sending unit on the EATC that is supposed to tell the clutch to start, and if so can it be fixed without replacing a very expensive EATC unit. I hope you or someone can shed some light on this. Clutch works because it can be jumped through the relay. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance.

There is something in the EATC that activates the A/C clutch. I recall reading that someone had a problem with theirs and fixed it. If I recall correctly it involved soldering an electrical board. Maybe if you post another thread specially about the A/C and the EATC that person will respond. I believe it was one of the regular posters. There is an EATC test procedure (Google it) in requires pushing and holding certain buttons, but I've never found it's told me anything if interest.

I don't know why the manual and EATC controls use a different blend door actuator. The actuator does the same thing in both cases. Maybe it has something to do with controlling the temp automatically.

Have you checked fuses and swapped the A/C relay?

 

[brownie64]

There is something in the EATC that activates the A/C clutch. I recall reading that someone had a problem with theirs and fixed it. If I recall correctly it involved soldering an electrical board. Maybe if you post another thread specially about the A/C and the EATC that person will respond. I believe it was one of the regular posters. There is an EATC test procedure (Google it) in requires pushing and holding certain buttons, but I've never found it's told me anything if interest.

I don't know why the manual and EATC controls use a different blend door actuator. The actuator does the same thing in both cases. Maybe it has something to do with controlling the temp automatically.

Have you checked fuses and swapped the A/C relay?

Yes all the fuses show continuity, and I swapped the relays and they are good. I came across the article you are talking about, and plan to try to remove the circuit board tomorrow and see what I can find wish me luck. Just out of curiosity will it hurt anything to engage the clutch by jumping pin 85 with 87a and use my A/C until I get this fixed it doesn't draw juice from the battery, and I could always disconnect it when I don't want to use the A/C, or would this mess something else up like the PCM?

 

[koda2000]

Yes all the fuses show continuity, and I swapped the relays and they are good. I came across the article you are talking about, and plan to try to remove the circuit board tomorrow and see what I can find wish me luck. Just out of curiosity will it hurt anything to engage the clutch by jumping pin 85 with 87a and use my A/C until I get this fixed it doesn't draw juice from the battery, and I could always disconnect it when I don't want to use the A/C, or would this mess something else up like the PCM?

Don't do that. You'll freeze your evaporator and maybe blows seals and/or lines.. The compressor needs to me able to cycle ON/OFF as necessary.

 

[SoNic67]

I tried all of the Dorman units for my ETAC unit, none worked.
Get a Motorcraft one form dealer, is not that much more expensive.

And yes, the Motorcraft one came with that extra plate, but my 2001 didn't need it, I just took it off.

 

[brownie64]

I tried all of the Dorman units for my ETAC unit, none worked.
Get a Motorcraft one form dealer, is not that much more expensive.

And yes, the Motorcraft one came with that extra plate, but my 2001 didn't need it, I just took it off.

Thanks for the advise I'll try that. I kind of got the Idea the Dorman were made cheap when I dismantled it.

 

[brownie64]

Don't do that. You'll freeze your evaporator and maybe blows seals and/or lines.. The compressor needs to me able to cycle ON/OFF as necessary.

Yah I didn't consider that. My Buick LeSabre's compressor doesn't cycle it runs continuously. But its made that way. Thanks for the advise.

 

[brownie64]

compressor cycle

For the sake of argument let's say all the pressure switches high/low are good. the Freon is filled perfectly, and all the relays, and fusses are good. What makes the clutch decide hay it's time to shut off I'm getting too cold, and oh its time to engage I need cool air. Is there some kind of temp switch in the evaporator area??? I appreciate your guys help on this, and I'm sorry if I've been a pain. But if someone could answer this question it would be very helpful to me. Like I said I never had to deal with this whole cycle issue before my Buick which I don't like near as much as my 4 wheel drive Eddie Bauer Ford Explorer doesn't cycle it runs all the time it is on.

 

[crunchie_frog]

There is a pressure switch (on top of the accumulator) that cuts it off on low pressure. For a fully charged correctly operating system, the low pressure is a direct indication of the r134a temp so it prevents it from getting too cold and freezing the evaporator.

 

[brownie64]

There is a pressure switch (on top of the accumulator) that cuts it off on low pressure. For a fully charged correctly operating system, the low pressure is a direct indication of the r134a temp so it prevents it from getting too cold and freezing the evaporator.

So if that switch is working it should cycle properly assuming everything else is ok. So that brings me back to my EATC I really don't want to muck with this thing.
Why does it always got to be the difficult expensive things, and there is still the PCM which controls voltage to the relay. I guess I just might have to take it in and let someone look at it and tell me what it is. But here is the rub are they going to tell me the truth or just what will make them the most money. I wish I knew someone I could trust. Thanks guys.

 

[crunchie_frog]

So if that switch is working it should cycle properly assuming everything else is ok. So that brings me back to my EATC I really don't want to muck with this thing.
Why does it always got to be the difficult expensive things, and there is still the PCM which controls voltage to the relay. I guess I just might have to take it in and let someone look at it and tell me what it is. But here is the rub are they going to tell me the truth or just what will make them the most money. I wish I knew someone I could trust. Thanks guys.

are you sure your blend door itself is not broken? I have a spare actuator(for EATC) for my 2000 that I have verified works and fits I will take a picture and post it.
The fact that yours makes a clicking noise, if I read your post correctly, sounds to me like the actuator may be working and the door is broken. You can operate the blend door, with the actuator removed, with an allen wrench the same or similar size as the is on the actuator. Have you tried that to see if you can switch from heat to cold using an allen wrench?