Blown motor?? Let's just swap it out for a v8 | Page 7 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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Blown motor?? Let's just swap it out for a v8

Fix4Dirt

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Is there a reason why my break pedal feels the same as when the truck is off when it’s running is there something I need to swap over from the v8 truck for my brake system to work properly? And does anyone have a starter wire diagram because my starter is not working with the ignition only if I jumó it’s off but it’s connected with factory wiring diagram any advice helps thanks.
is the vacuum line completely hooked up to the booster no leaks?
My vacuum booster has a tag reading 5.0 liter.
You may need vacuum booster from donor
at least my sohc, the booster is the same out of a v8 as well. PNs are the same.
 



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vroomzoomboom

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no need for a v8 booster. i have had my factory sohc in the truck for over 10 years with no problems since i did my v8 swap
 






Ruben9237

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is the vacuum line completely hooked up to the booster no leaks?

at least my sohc, the booster is the same out of a v8 as well. PNs are the same.
Yeah it’s hooked up with the vacuum line I’m thinking I might just need the 5.0 one.and would I have to switch the abs modual out for a 5.0 one aswell or can I leave mine in? Also I can’t figure out what’s wrong with the starter so I’m wiring in a push button to fix it.
 






Ruben9237

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Can someone post a vacuum diagram for the motor,heat/ac system please I’m very close finishing the engine Bay Area just need to complete the vacuum lines and brake issue.my truck was a ohv v6 would the brake booster be good for the 5.0?
 






Josh P

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Can someone post a vacuum diagram for the motor,heat/ac system please I’m very close finishing the engine Bay Area just need to complete the vacuum lines and brake issue.my truck was a ohv v6 would the brake booster be good for the 5.0?
The brake booster doesn't care what size motor it is attached to.
 












Turdle

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Search on forum for 5.0 vacuum diagram gave several hits

 






Ruben9237

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Search on forum for 5.0 vacuum diagram gave several hits

Thank you for the digrahm but I got the motor to run and idle pretty good so I think the motor vacuum lines are good I’m just trying to figure out the ac/heat vacuum lines and any other accessory vacuum lines if any.also does anyone know about a g force sensor and if I have or need one for my breaks to work I swapped out the abs modual for the 5.0 one and still have a hard break pedal when the motor is on.I only have vacuum lines brakes and drive shafts left.thank you
 






Turdle

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This will help with HVAC vacuum.
 






Ruben9237

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Hey everyone I have a question,I started the truck today and it won’t go into gear while it’s on I put new fluid and bleed the clutch and pushing the stick as hard as I could and it won’t go in only goes into revers when it’s in 4lo.I noticed when I put the trans in,the slave cylinder/throw out bearing was touching the pressure plate forks but i don’t know if that will effect it.

Also my brakes are not working properly I changed all the 5.0 stuff over other than the brake booster because I was told it was the same but my brake pedal feels hard when it’s running the same as if it was off
M5rod-2 trans from a 96 f150 with a 4.2
T case is a 4406 from the same truck
 






Josh P

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Is the slave cylinder new? Does the clutch pedal feel soft? No resistance going to the floor? If the parts list is good, bleed the clutch by removing the C clip from the master cylinder and lifting the pushrod up. When air gets trapped in there it is a pain to remove and seems like no amount of bleeding will remove it.
 






Ruben9237

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Is the slave cylinder new? Does the clutch pedal feel soft? No resistance going to the floor? If the parts list is good, bleed the clutch by removing the C clip from the master cylinder and lifting the pushrod up. When air gets trapped in there it is a pain to remove and seems like no amount of bleeding will remove it.
The clutch feels normal when pressed but does not engage the pressure plate when I push the clutch or if I don’t trying to put it into gear feels the same.I was reading Nick26 post about his swap and I think I might have got the wrong slave cylinder/throw out bearing but I’m not 100% sure because I can’t follow his post that well.
 






Ruben9237

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The clutch feels normal when pressed but does not engage the pressure plate when I push the clutch or if I don’t trying to put it into gear feels the same.I was reading Nick26 post about his swap and I think I might have got the wrong slave cylinder/throw out bearing but I’m not 100% sure because I can’t follow his post that well.
I ordered a click kit for a 96 f150 5.0 and the flywheel because that’s what I read I needed but I read his post and it said something about the m5rod-2 uses a fork,but when I removed the trans from the f150 it had the slave cylinder/throw out bearing assembly no fork.
 






Josh P

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A fork is for an external slave cylinder, something your transmission doesn't have. The 96 F150 stuff will work, if you are absolutely positive the clutch has no air in the system, next is to look for a mechanical problem. A member here had a similar problem, turned out to be the clutch disc rusted to the flywheel. A broken spring in the disc, a bolt backed out somewhere on the clutch assembly, etc could be a possible cause.
 






Ruben9237

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A fork is for an external slave cylinder, something your transmission doesn't have. The 96 F150 stuff will work, if you are absolutely positive the clutch has no air in the system, next is to look for a mechanical problem. A member here had a similar problem, turned out to be the clutch disc rusted to the flywheel. A broken spring in the disc, a bolt backed out somewhere on the clutch assembly, etc could be a possible cause.
I don’t think the clutch plate would have rusted to it because it’s been inside and is brand new.I remmeber when I put the trans in that the throw out bearing was touching the pressure plate before the bell housing was touching the engine to bolt it down,I’m thinking that that’s not suppose to happen and that the slave cylinder/throw out bearing was too long /the wrong one.I just don’t know wich one is the right one or from what truck/motor I need to get I was reading that a never did the same swap but I don’t know if he’s still on the forum his name is nick26
 






410Fortune

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okay Ruben
So lets recap
So you installed a new flywheel clutch and hydraulics for a 96 5.0 correct?
You have a new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder and the clutch is not allowing shift into 1st, 2nd, only reverse

Is the shifter itself installed correctly? The trans should be in N when you drop the shifter in from the top and tighten the 3 hold down bolts
Did you bleed the hydraulic system per the instructional videos?

This could easily be caused by air trapped in the master cylinder
 






Ruben9237

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The master cylinder is the stock explorer master cylinder and I bleed it before I put it in and the shifter ball with the 3 screws was in the trans when I put it in.I installed the clutch kit and fly wheel from a 96 f150 5.0
 






410Fortune

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Have you bled the system after install?
Did you install a new master and a new slave?

Have you watched the youtube videos on how to remove trapped air?
Help me help you by answering the questions!
 









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C420sailor

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Define won’t go into gear

Does the shifter just not move, or does it grind like hell?
 






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