Blown motor?? Let's just swap it out for a v8 | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Blown motor?? Let's just swap it out for a v8

Have you bled the system after install?
Did you install a new master and a new slave?

Have you watched the youtube videos on how to remove trapped air?
Help me help you by answering the questions!
I bled the system after install and the master cylinder is the stock one that came with the truck so a 99 4.0 ohv stock master cylinder and I bled the master cylinder last time I did the old clutch when it had the 4.0 probably about 6 months ago I bled the master cylinder I bled the slave cylinder 2 days ago and no air the clutch pedal feels fine and when I look at the slave cylinder throught the window in the trans it’s moving he fingers of the preassure plate but I don’t know if it’s moving it enuf
 



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Define won’t go into gear

Does the shifter just not move, or does it grind like hell
It’s like if it was already in gear and trying to push it more,it don’t grind but it’s like there’s a lock blocking it from going into gear but it grinds going into reverse
 






It’s like if it was already in gear and trying to push it more,it don’t grind but it’s like there’s a lock blocking it from going into gear but it grinds going into reverse
I think my internet is messing up because I’m not getting all the reply’s but I figured out what it was I bled the clutch again and was about to bleed the master cylinder and saw my clutch pedal was bent pretty bad I pulled up on it and statutes it out and boom it goes into gear while running,I guess with it being bent it dident have enuf travel to fully disengage the clutch and that’s why it wouldent go into gear.I took it for a little ride around the parking lot and holy smokes from what I feel she is going to be fast thanks guys all that’s left now is the exaust and 02 sensors
 






I think my internet is messing up because I’m not getting all the reply’s but I figured out what it was I bled the clutch again and was about to bleed the master cylinder and saw my clutch pedal was bent pretty bad I pulled up on it and statutes it out and boom it goes into gear while running,I guess with it being bent it dident have enuf travel to fully disengage the clutch and that’s why it wouldent go into gear.I took it for a little ride around the parking lot and holy smokes from what I feel she is going to be fast thanks guys all that’s left now is the exaust and 02 sensors
Hey guys so as I’m buttoning everything up I still can’t get the brakes to work properly I bought a new 5.0 brake booster and the abs modual is from the donor explorer I bled the abs modual with my jobs computer but the pedal is still hard when it’s running,I’m supposed to drive it tmr to get the exaust done and I need brakes to drive it😂 any input helps
 






Hey guys so as I’m buttoning everything up I still can’t get the brakes to work properly I bought a new 5.0 brake booster and the abs modual is from the donor explorer I bled the abs modual with my jobs computer but the pedal is still hard when it’s running,I’m supposed to drive it tmr to get the exaust done and I need brakes to drive it😂 any input helps
Hey guys I got the truck home and took it for a ride and it feels down on power.I ran the codes and I’m getting p0340,p0141,p0135, do these codes go hand and hand or are they separate problems and does anyone have advice on fixing them?
 






340 and 135 are 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit malfunction detected
You need to inspect the bank 1 sensor 2 wiring and check HEGO fuses
Downsream sensor on bank 1 is not pre heating, if the wiring checks out it is very likely you need a new sensor. The heater circuit codes almost always mean it has burned up AS LONG AS THE wiring and fuses are good

P0141 is cam sensor (synchronizer) circuit A malfunction
Check the wiring at the cam sensor, pull sensor off synchronizer body and do a visual inspection

both of these codes can effect runability/driveability yes you could be "down on power"
 












I'm not sure what that means
I believe its heated O2 sensor on fords there's usually a fuse for them since it's a heated circuit
 












I checked the o2 sensors and I just went ahead and ordered the two front ones to be safe and there cheap enuf from rock auto,the rear ones are however not there because I don’t have catalitic converters but if the power loss is still there after I change the two front ones I will put universal cats in and buy new sensors. The cam sensor went away after I pushed the plug for it on the sensor more.I’m getting lean codes now but I think it’s because of the o2 sensors. The last problem im having with it is the 4406 vibration after about 50 it starts vibrating like crazy I’ve seen threads about it and how 410fortune has made mounts to fix it but the trans mount I build for the truck is a little different I was wondering if I could just move the trans over 1 inch to the passenger side and be good.
 






3/8” to passenger side at the trans mount, 1” waaay too much

Heated
Exhaust
Gas
Oxygen

Sensor, sorry I’m old school ;)

Lean codes are
Likely from running lean it means the mainstream 02 sensors are detecting too much air not enough fuel, the computer has dumped more fuel in an effort to compensate and was not able thus you get a code. Fox upstream sensors first, now that cam sensor code is gone, test fuel pressure the. Go drive it some more see if lean codes return

Lean is usually air leaks, un metered air, or low fuel pressure
 






3/8” to passenger side at the trans mount, 1” waaay too much

Heated
Exhaust
Gas
Oxygen

Sensor, sorry I’m old school ;)

Lean codes are
Likely from running lean it means the mainstream 02 sensors are detecting too much air not enough fuel, the computer has dumped more fuel in an effort to compensate and was not able thus you get a code. Fox upstream sensors first, now that cam sensor code is gone, test fuel pressure the. Go drive it some more see if lean codes return

Lean is usually air leaks, un metered air, or low fuel pressure
Ok I’ll put some new sensors on and maybe I’ll have to put the rear o2 sensors in with some universal cats just to get to run good but I just had a smoke test done to it and there’s no vacuum leaks
 






Ok I’ll put some new sensors on and maybe I’ll have to put the rear o2 sensors in with some universal cats just to get to run good but I just had a smoke test done to it and there’s no vacuum leaks
I moved the trans over to the passenger side 3/8 of an inch and it made the vibration way better there is still a vibration but it could just be from it needing a alignment so I’m not too worried about that.the new o2 sensors will be in Monday so let’s see what happens with that now😁
 






hmmm sounds like head gasket or head crack to me from overheating dont drive it though imo. if it idles somewhat its not fully gone... i think?

so now imo it is

do you gamble on head & gasket

or r&r entire motor.

imo at that age id r&r the rest but cause ya alr put 10 into it and if ya wanna save some bucks can gamble on a set of heads and gasket cause imo it overheated then either blew gasket or cracked head then coolant spews and get ingested. ohvs are known to do that
I have two 351 engine tranny with transfer cases. How hard is it to put them in a 90 Bronco II and a 92 Eddie Bower Explorer ? Between the two I have swapped out 7 Automatics and both engines have sever blown head gadgets. I'm tired of messing with these crappy running gears. I like the trucks, just want them to be reliable. I figure that fairly stock 351 W shouldn't blow out the Difs. Any advice ?
 






I put a 302 in my bronco ii back in 2005 been daily driving it that way ever since. She is one tough sob! My diffs are upgraded, as is pretty much the rest of the rig too….
I went through several v6 transmissions before this… now she just runs and goes super reliable
 






I have two 351 engine tranny with transfer cases. How hard is it to put them in a 90 Bronco II and a 92 Eddie Bower Explorer ? Between the two I have swapped out 7 Automatics and both engines have sever blown head gadgets. I'm tired of messing with these crappy running gears. I like the trucks, just want them to be reliable. I figure that fairly stock 351 W shouldn't blow out the Difs. Any advice ?
Swap kits are available. oil pan has to be changed, remote oil filter. The B2 has a 7.5 axle, a 351W will eventually kill it. Start a thread about it and we can help with the parts list.
 






I have two 351 engine tranny with transfer cases. How hard is it to put them in a 90 Bronco II and a 92 Eddie Bower Explorer ? Between the two I have swapped out 7 Automatics and both engines have sever blown head gadgets. I'm tired of messing with these crappy running gears. I like the trucks, just want them to be reliable. I figure that fairly stock 351 W shouldn't blow out the Difs. Any advice ?
the BII like the early rangers has the 7.5, which may handle the 351 may not depending on your driving and tire size etc. the early X has the 8.8, which is much stronger. imo, u der normal circumstances it should handle the 351 well. these can handle big tires and big power usually, since theyre in jeep and drag builds alike. some have swapped to a 9" out back but dunno about that imo. they do make chromoly for the 8.8 if that is what is breaking on you. for the fronts theres a little less available the X should have a D35 which is fine, nit thegreatest, certainly not the worst. same with the BII i think it had a different dana axle up front. not so much avioabale for those howveer
 






Swap kits are available. oil pan has to be changed, remote oil filter. The B2 has a 7.5 axle, a 351W will eventually kill it. Start a thread about it and we can help with the parts list.
I have three parts Explorers as well. So I'll just swap the axels, looking forward to being off road again. PS I have thousands of hours of working on V8's, I trust them more. THANKS.
 






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