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Body Bushing

KajunBndit

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 16, 2013
Messages
215
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City, State
Theriot, LA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004ExplorerSportTrac XLT
Hey there everyone, yeah I am posting another thread, LoLoL. Last week my daughter and I had changed the rear shocks on the sport trac and wasn't near as bad as I thought, just glad that I am able to do the majority of the work myself, feeling useful again. I just order a set of Prothane chassis bushing for my truck. I do hope they come in by the weekend. Whenever they do arrive, I really don't know when I plan to get it done though, I just want them here for when I am ready to get it done. I need to give my daughter heads up, LoLoL. I watched a few videos on youtube that are really informative and I feel that I shouldn't have to much trouble doing it. I do have a impact gun, channel lock plyers and several other tools that I will need.
When my daughter and I had changes the rear shocks last week, I did notice that I had a couple of bushings missing, it is not squeeking or any thumps in the ride yet so before that happens, I plan on changing them out. I have left a note to myself to take pictures this time so I will be posting pictures.
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Just be sure to do one side at a time. Only break loose the bolts on the side you're working on.

There's a strong possibility the bolts at the front mounts are chewed up from body movement and/or rust. You will want new bolts handy just in case. I ordered new ones for my 2002 ahead of time from FASTENAL. Part number 11114576


You won't know untill you get them out, but you *MIGHT* need to replace the other 6 body mount bolts if they are severely rusted. FASTENAL part # 11114573


If your existing body mount shells are still good, be sure to get every bit of rust off of them before reinstallation. Paint them and use silicone grease where water may get entrapped. Silicone grease repels water.

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^ Agree. I did NOT follow Ford, Prothane, or Daystar's instructions to loosen ALL the bolts first. Cab must be lifted high to remove the upper bushings and I was afraid of it shifting causing unnecessary work realigning after the job was completed. The cab must be lifted a minimum of about two inches to remove the upper mount hex shaped sleeves. Heating the bolt tips from below will soften the blue factory threadlock compound and make them much easier to remove. Also be aware of the metal retaining "clips" used in the lower "D" mounts shown in the first link post #81.

Body Mount Bushings

Body Mount Shrinkage and Compression
 






Thank you for the tips HELMUT RONER and swshawaii, I don't think I will have rust issues like the explorer Sport track owners of the north. swshawii, had you changed your bushing in Hawaii? If so, did you have any rust issues with your bolts and hardware? I will loosen one sides before starting to take one side completely out. If I need to get new bolts I have my wife car that I can make the run. Any more hints or info would be appreciated, thanks!!!!
 






I went to Lowes and Home Depot in my area and they didn't have the bolts in Grade 10.9 which is what the factory bolts are. You can go to www.fastenal.com and order the bolts since you said you're not sure when you'll tackle this job. Order through their website and have the bolts come to you while you wait. At the very least the 2 front bolts.
 






Thank you HELMUT RONER, We do have a Fastenal here were we live and they told me that the bolts for the cab can't be order. LoLoL But tomorrow I will be looking @ some other hardware places we have and see what they offer. Thank you!!!! I may tackle this project next week after easter. my bushing should be here this friday, thinking about getting a torch as well, what do you think????
 






That is not true. Go to the website and have the bolts mailed to you directly not to the store. It will be good to have a small propane torch handy just in case you do need it. I have one available but I ended up not needing it.
 






HELMUT RONER, I have a 2004 Sport Trac, do you think the bolts would be the same??? If so, I will order a complete set. I have been thinking about it and I believe that I will change them out weather bad or not.
 






I second purchasing new front bolts. My truck lived a complelty salt free life and has zero rust anywhere except those two front bolts. The design of the mount and bolt collects water and causing the bolt to rust. I purchased new bolts at the dealer as nowhere locally had them as they are pretty long full thread high strength metric bolt. The design of the other bolts doesn't lend them to rusting too bad. I ended up reusing mine just ran them through a die to remove old thread locker. I also ran a tap through the body mount. You must use a torch to heat up the bolt/thread locker and then loosen bolt with a long breaker bar. Once it cools down it starts getting tough to loosen then hit it again with the torch. I had to heat up each one twice. Also make sure to purchase the large pipe vise grip, which allows you to hold the bottom bushing. The front ones are the toughest. It took me a majority of the day to get one side and then about half day to do the second side.
 






Thank you firefly for the information.
 






I found that the OE "D" body mount bushings are made of a different material and were fine, so I didn't bother replacing them. This probably made replacing the "B" and "C" bushing a little more difficult, but it was doable. I recommend loosening/removing the "A", "B" and "C" bushing bolts from both sides to give yourself max lifting room to get the top mounts out/in. One tricky part is the parking brake cable on the driver's side. It's in the way of the "B" bushing mount, but can be levered out it's hole in the frame with a hammer handle with the parking brake left off. I tried using a pipe wrench to hold the metal mounts while extracting the bolts, but found a large pair of vice grips worked better. Heat, penetrant and an impact wrench made the job go much faster/easier. When you're done you must torque the bolts to factory specs of 41 FP for the "A" bolts and 59 FT for the others, which is harder than it sounds. If you don't do this you'll get clunking noises.

Tip: The "A" bolts have a nut on top which must be held to remove the bolts from the bottom. That's what the large round holes in the top of radiator core support are for. You'll need a long ratchet extension. All the bushing pieces are different sizes, but if you look at them carefully, the part numbers are marked on them in 2 places (one place is much easier to read than the other). Read the instructions, they DO make the job easier.
 






Thank you Koda, Thank you HELMUT RONER for the pictures. I looked again on fastenal website and the cab bolts are available online or @ the store. I called the local FORD place and they are telling me that there are 3 different sizes 2 in the front, 4 in the center, and 2 @ the rear. I had called several Oilfield supply shops where I live, they can get anything, might take me awhile but I will get all the bolts needed. Kota, some of the bushing are in good shape but since I have bought a complete set, I am going to change the whole kitten caboodle. LoLoL Gives me a chance to be with my daughter. The ride is still good in the truck. Hey HELMUT RONER, one of the oilfield supply shop just called me. LOLOL He can get everything that I need overnight, I told him NO, cost way to much I told him next week would be fine. and it is cheaper than Fastenal!!!!!!! RAOTFLMBO!
 












Like Koda I replaced the "b" and "c" bushings. I used the Dorman brand that came with the hardware. I did have to loosen "a" to get them out, a tight squeeze. See the sticky in the above section for pictures of mine. I did not use heat.
 






Thank you Koda, Thank you HELMUT RONER for the pictures. I looked again on fastenal website and the cab bolts are available online or @ the store. I called the local FORD place and they are telling me that there are 3 different sizes 2 in the front, 4 in the center, and 2 @ the rear. I had called several Oilfield puppy shops where I live, they can get anything, might take me awhile but I will get all the bolts needed. Kota, some of the bushing are in good shape but since I have bought a complete set, I am going to change the whole kitten caboodle. LoLoL Gives me a chance to be with my daughter. The ride is still good in the truck. Hey HELMUT RONER, one of the oilfield puppy shop just called me. LOLOL He can get everything that I need overnight, I told him NO, cost way to much I told him next week would be fine. and it is cheaper than Fastenal!!!!!!! RAOTFLMBO!

My ride was bad and my left side doors didn't close right before changing my bushings. My "A" bushings were okay, but as I had to take them loose to change the "B" & "C" bushings I figured I might as well change them. The "D" bushings are a little tricky to change because of the clips, so I choose to pass as they looked fine. I saw no reason to change my bolts, as they weren't rusty at all. After installing the new mounts, the ride was greatly improved, the doors closed correctly and I could notice a difference in ride height.
 






Thank you 01 STRunner, N2FORD and koda, I am really getting excited about this, I am sure it will take me all day, maybe 2 days but just to do something that is worthwhile. I have 2 more things that I really would like to get done after this project is done before I start my previous mods. My windshield washer fluid isn't working. I am hoping that the sqirter line is plugged up or it maybe the pump itself. 2nd is I have some start issue, when I go to crank my truck, it doesn't crank, click or anything but when I turn the key back and goto crank it up, it starts. I have been reading many threads about this and I am thinking it may be the ignition switch, but I will be checking battery cables and the ignition lines... I hope to jump on these next month.
 






Re windshield washers: In addition to checking the obvious things, when I bought by XLT the washer's didn't work, but I could here the pump run when I pushed the switch. It turned out the bottom of the reservoir was full of slime and that was clogging the small screen on the pump inlet. After flushing out the reservoir really well with a hose it now works great. I'd never seen that happen before.
 






I don't hear anything when I depress the windshield washer, maybe I need to get a new pump, but I will check everything else first. Thank you koda!
 






I just gotten these in today, I am getting very excited now waiting on my new bolts to come in Wednesday and maybe Thursday I will start. I need to make more room in the barn, I am thinking it will take me a couple of days. My wife said she would help me, I am going to see how tis works out. LMBO!
 

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My new bolts should be in sometimes tomorrow, I cleared out the barn more so I can fit the truck in it completely and to give myself ample room to work/move around. Now I have been reading about the clips in the D bushings, what should I know about these, the best way to remove them?
 






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