JS Green ST
New Member
- Joined
- July 13, 2013
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Tacoma, WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer Sport Track
I'm seeking some help from this very knowledgeable group.
I have a 2003 Sport Track that had a serious squeak in the rear. The squeak appeared after I replaced the entire suspension (upgraded all end link and sway bar bushings to poly, EE rear swaybar, new shocks). After about 3 months it grew very loud and I had a mechanic look at it.
The squeak was caused by a break in sheet metal where the body mount connects to the cab (rear drivers side). The bushing (which looks like new) squeaks as it rubs the sheet metal. Took it to a body shop and for $200 they welded it back - which solved the problem for 3 months.
Reading this very helpful form it seems the body bushings rot on these trucks pretty fast. Since mine only has 70K miles I didn't think it would be an issue. Yesterday I crawled under the truck and looked at the bushings. The bushing under the sheet metal break looks like new, as does the other rear bushing. The bushings in the center look worn, but serviceable. The bushings under the front of the cab look shot - not crumbling to the touch as some forum members report, but they look bad and the bushings have caved over the sleeves (which I'm interpreting as needs to be replaced).
Several questions...
1. Anybody else have any issues with the body mount tearing where it connects to the cab? My truck has a clean accident history (per Carfax), passed my through inspection, and professional mechanics inspection before I bought it - it appears in perfect shape except for the torn sheet metal around the bushing. Truck is 2WD with an open diff, so nobody did any hard core off-roading before I bought it. I'm confused about how this type of damage could even occur.
2. My theory is that the bad bushings in the front cause extra stress on the back mounts. Replacing the factory bushings with poly bushings should stiffen the cab and take pressure off the stress crack in the sheet metal. With the pressure removed I can have the crack re-welded and it will hold for more than 3 months. Does this sound reasonable?
Any other advice? Thanks in advance for your help!
I have a 2003 Sport Track that had a serious squeak in the rear. The squeak appeared after I replaced the entire suspension (upgraded all end link and sway bar bushings to poly, EE rear swaybar, new shocks). After about 3 months it grew very loud and I had a mechanic look at it.
The squeak was caused by a break in sheet metal where the body mount connects to the cab (rear drivers side). The bushing (which looks like new) squeaks as it rubs the sheet metal. Took it to a body shop and for $200 they welded it back - which solved the problem for 3 months.
Reading this very helpful form it seems the body bushings rot on these trucks pretty fast. Since mine only has 70K miles I didn't think it would be an issue. Yesterday I crawled under the truck and looked at the bushings. The bushing under the sheet metal break looks like new, as does the other rear bushing. The bushings in the center look worn, but serviceable. The bushings under the front of the cab look shot - not crumbling to the touch as some forum members report, but they look bad and the bushings have caved over the sleeves (which I'm interpreting as needs to be replaced).
Several questions...
1. Anybody else have any issues with the body mount tearing where it connects to the cab? My truck has a clean accident history (per Carfax), passed my through inspection, and professional mechanics inspection before I bought it - it appears in perfect shape except for the torn sheet metal around the bushing. Truck is 2WD with an open diff, so nobody did any hard core off-roading before I bought it. I'm confused about how this type of damage could even occur.
2. My theory is that the bad bushings in the front cause extra stress on the back mounts. Replacing the factory bushings with poly bushings should stiffen the cab and take pressure off the stress crack in the sheet metal. With the pressure removed I can have the crack re-welded and it will hold for more than 3 months. Does this sound reasonable?
Any other advice? Thanks in advance for your help!