Borg Warner-1354 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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Borg Warner-1354 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary

Glacier991

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Ok... I have a few finished diaries (A4LD, A4LD Valve Body and the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary (one of my most popular ever). I am in the infancy of the 4R70W Diary, and now I'm starting the BW 1354 Diary?

Well, I thought I'd put out a little teaser. I have an A4LD to rebuild this weekend for someone, and then I thought maybe I'd dig into the Borg Warner 1354 Transfer case - the one used by Ford in the early Explorers. Now mind you, I know absolutely nada to speak of about transfer cases, so I thought this might be a good one to rebuild together with you all and we can all learn together... through the magic of pictures, this site and the internet.

I have a 1354 on site to rebuild. It's usage history is a little uncertain, but I cleaned it all up and externally it looks practically new. It came out of a 91 Ranger. I searched around for a rebuild kit and lo and behold found a great site online that sells kits, and chains for most transfer cases (including the 4405, which will be the next Diary after everything else gets done - I have one of those thanks to Section425. (And a 96 2WD 4R70W so I now have 2 of those to build, one 4WD and 1 2WD).

I digress. When the rebuild kit came today, I opened the package and laughed out loud when I read the label on the parts, mounted on cardboard under shrink wrap. Know how we sometimes laughingly call our Explorers ..."Exploders"... yep... here is the printing:

15286DSCN6282.jpg


Mind you this is from NatPro which is a major national mfgr of auto parts!

Anyway, The rebuild kit costs $100, and a new chain is another $100. I know enough to know that chains DO wear out, but for $100, before comitting to buy a new one I thought I'd wait til I had the transfer case busted open to see the condition of the one in there and read up on when it should be replaced. But I did buy the rebuild kit. It consisted of that cardboard sheet, with 3 ball bearings, a bronze bushing, a needle roller bearing bushing, two small plastic thingies (technical name), two nuts (look like locknuts), and something in the middle wrapped in corrosion resistant paper. As I looked at the corrosion paper I noticed it was on inside out, the wrapping said "This side towards part to be protected" or something like that and it was on the outside. I didn't take a picture but what was inside was a plastic housed filter and a hose (hardly needing corrosion protection). The anti-corrosion paper was for the OTHER parts, and that was why it was on inside out. Here is a pic of this these parts:

15286DSCN6280-med.jpg


Then there was a second package, with a cardboard stiffener.... It contained a cheap cardboard gasket, 3 of what, for lack of a better term, could be described as shaft oil seals (much like you see on the output shafts of transmissions or behind wheel bearings) a couple of what look like sealing rings for maybe a shaft passage into the TC and a small O-ring.

Here it all is:

15286DSCN6281-med.jpg


So, that's what you get for $100.

Here is our "victim". A little hard to see against the painted floor the same color.... The dark ring to your left facing you is the gasket to the transmission and the output shaft goes into that splined shaft.... the right hand yoke is for the front wheel drive.... directly on the opposite side of the input is the main rear wheel output - power to the rear wheels is trabnsmitted straight through.

15286DSCN6283-med.jpg


Another view of the area that connects to the transmission and the splined input.

15286DSCN6284-med.jpg


Now on the other side... you can see the shift motor, the rear wheel output, and an arrow points to the infamous "brown wire"

15286DSCN6285-med.jpg


Here's a close up of the shift motor

15286DSCN6286-med.jpg


and to finish, a closup of the "brown wire" and where it goes in the connector

15286DSCN6288-med.jpg


For now, stay tuned. We can all have fun on this one together. Maybe by the time we tear into the 4405 we collectively will know a little more than we do starting on this one.
 


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jcook007

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That's Outstanding :thumbsup: I'm so glad your digging into that transfer case. I have the same parts kits that you have and I'm ready to service the unit.
http://www.drivetrain.com/transfercasesparts.html#Borg-Warner 1354

I found and purchased a chain at rockauto.com for half the $$.

The thingies are shift fork pads?

Looking forward to your post.
 




410Fortune

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Thank you , thank you, thank you.
I will be rebuilding one of these suckers somtime in the future I am sure of it.

To get the brown wire out of the T case w/o cutting it you can dis-assembly the shift motor wiring plug and release the wire pin.
(remove red "keeper", push locking tab to center, pull pin)
I have many doctors and dentist tools I use for working on wiring harness. A O-ring pick is a great tool for getting those pesky keepers out of the plug ends.
 




Jefe

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Um, why would a 1354 have a brown wire? The infamous Brown wire is for the 4405, and supplies power to the front output clutch. :confused:
 




410Fortune

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with the 1354 the brown wire goes inside the case and often gets cut in order to remove the shift motor, I think thats why it is "infamous" in this case :)
 




Glacier991

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I checked out the ROCKAUTO site, and indeed you CAN buy a new chain there for $48, instead of the $100 at the other site.THANK YOU JCook007. Out of curiosity I priced the rest of the rebuild kit, which they sell MOST of as individual parts. Not only did they not include everything, but there was no apparent savings to be had - so, for the rebuild kit, use the other link to drivetrain.com. So, it appears that everything you might need to rebuild can be had for $150, plus shipping. Oh, by the way, ROCK auto sells rebuilt shift motors for $60. with a $25 core, just FYI.
 




EMG7895

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410Fortune said:
Thank you , thank you, thank you.
I will be rebuilding one of these suckers somtime in the future I am sure of it.

To get the brown wire out of the T case w/o cutting it you can dis-assembly the shift motor wiring plug and release the wire pin.
(remove red "keeper", push locking tab to center, pull pin)
I have many doctors and dentist tools I use for working on wiring harness. A O-ring pick is a great tool for getting those pesky keepers out of the plug ends.
The procedure in the service manual actually says to bend a paperclip at a sharp angle to get the retainer out then use a pick to pull the pin, of course I found this after I cut the wire.
 




410Fortune

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My wire is cut too, since I bought my case at a junk yard :)
I use this to make the connection, I can now unplug it when I need to: (these things are VERY usefull)

posi-tite_n2.jpg


http://www.posi-lock.com/positite.html
 




Glacier991

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Ok a little more tease. I recently picked up a "grab bag" of 1354 parts. So I thought I'd show you my tiny arsenal of replacement parts.

Since I did not want to appear totally stupid...(which I really am on these things) ... I looked at the CD for the transfer case.... this is a "front adapter" (kinda looking like some type of mini pump to me)

15286DSCN6289-med.jpg


Then the shifter forks... first plastic

15286DSCN6291-med.jpg


then metal

15286DSCN6292-med.jpg


then the electric shift cam assembly...

15286DSCN6293-med.jpg


the output flange and some kinda metal rod (another technical name - when this thread is done we can attach proper names)

15286DSCN6294-med.jpg


Finally an assortment. There are some snap rings here, inside and outside. As a rule I am learning that reuse of outside snap rings isn't a recommended idea.. I am not sure inside snap rings have the same bad karma.... but anyway I have some here. plus a spring and a thingamajigger. (last technical name for tonight).

15286DSCN6296-med.jpg


I'm kinda like a kid at Christmas. I really love learning and sharing what I learn, and this one is completely new territory for me.
 




Gremlinstien

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How may "grab bags of parts" do you want??

I have a pile of extra stuff from the ones I have torn down to make "stublers" out of.

I could ID all those parts for ya,,but I don't want to spoil your fun! :D
 




BrooklynBay

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Was that transfer case this clean, or did you clean it up before the pictures? In the A4LD rebuild diary, you showed a before, and after picture of it with a nice fresh paint job. I remember seeing 2 A4LD cases that were painted. Do you need special seal drivers for this rebuild, or do the ones from one of your Rotunda transmission sets fit? In the picture, it looks like they have a few different sizes in this kit. Which CD has the information for rebuilding one of these that you just mentioned? Is it the main Ford CD set, or one from another company, like Mitchell?
 




Glacier991

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The transfer case was degreased, lightly sandblasted and lightly painted. Tools I am investigating, have many, can improvise most I am quite certain. I have the FORD cd's from 92 thru 2002.
 




Glacier991

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Gremlinstein.... the perfect assortment is 2 of everything. Wanna help? <g>
 




Gremlinstien

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I could send you two of everything that I am NOT using.

You won't get any of the planetary stuff or rear output shafts.

You would get chains, pumps, front output stuff, 4x4 shift parts, and a rear half of a case or two.

You feed the carrier :thumbsup:
 




Glacier991

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Sounds like a plan, especially since USPS has a Priority Mail Flat Rate box for $8.10 which would accept most of those things in one or two boxes. (One of them is square, should accept everything but chains maybe, and another one is more rectangular and thinner, which should accept chains.) Sounds like a deal to me.
 




Gremlinstien

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If it aint a problem for you,,,UPS works best for me :D

I can put alot of stuff in one box that way and have my wife ship it from work.

email me an addy (business is best) and I'll get ya an assortment of goodies :thumbsup:
 




Glacier991

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Done. You are very kind. Thank you. I have met a lot of wonderful and kind and generous folks on this board. I appreciate you all.
 






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mechanix

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I just bought a manual 1354 to take the place of the electric shift 1354. I was wondering if there where any parts that could be replaced to make it a lower range. Also how are these made into a doubler? I will try to find a picture as to what I mean.

Eric
 




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