Brake Bleeding necessary after changing pads & rotors? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Brake Bleeding necessary after changing pads & rotors?

parad1mg

Elite Explorer
Joined
August 7, 2007
Messages
861
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City, State
La Mirada, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Mounty 5.0 AWD
I've got powerslots ready to replace the front with hawk pads for all four corners and i'm going to replace the emergency brake pads too since mine are already shot when i get the time.

So like the title sez, is it really necessary to bleed the brakes after changing the pads & rotors?
 



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You don't have to bleed the brakes but it is best if you flush all the old fluid & replace it which would require bleeding the brakes.
 






you dotn have to bleed them, but its recommended

if you crack open any line at any time you will need a bleed
 






whoa, that was one fast reply ...
ok, thanks! how about when i need to move the piston back to its "full open" position? Do i siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir and fill it back when i'm done?
found a couple of methods here namely "siphoning" and opening the bleeder screw. What's better for a one man job?
 






Siphoning. If you crack the bleeder screw you will have to bleed the system.
 






I've always just used a big C-clamp to push the caliper piston in enough to get it to clear the rotor/pads. I've never spilled from the fluid reservoir. If you think about it, your not pushing the fluid level any higher than its intended to go.
 






The fluid level will go down as the piston moves out. If you notice your fluid is low and top it off when press the piston back in it will push the fluid you thought was gone back into the master cylinder causing it to flow over.
 






i always bleed the brakes after a brake job. even just swapping pads. because you never know......
 






I've always just used a big C-clamp to push the caliper piston in enough to get it to clear the rotor/pads. I've never spilled from the fluid reservoir. If you think about it, your not pushing the fluid level any higher than its intended to go.

Same here.
 












I usually put a C-clamp on the caliper with some pressure crack the bleeder screw push the caliper back and close the bleeder screw before I let pressure off with the C-clamp. That way no air should get in the system and shouldn't need bleeding. I've never had any trouble or needed to bleed it doing it this way.
 






I've always just used a big C-clamp to push the caliper piston in enough to get it to clear the rotor/pads. I've never spilled from the fluid reservoir. If you think about it, your not pushing the fluid level any higher than its intended to go.

the haynes manual says to just throw channel locks onto the old pads before removing them to depress the pistons. is it more effective, or better even, to use the C-clamp method?
 


















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