Brake Fluid Leak

[iAaronHD]

I recently started to get some brake fade. There started to be a scrubbing sound followed by my brakes starting to fade. So I automatically assumed it was time for new brakes--I even bought new rotors just because it was so cheap. I replaced these parts to find that I didn't need them, come to find out I have a leak. I don't really know exactly what's leaking. The leak is coming from the back of my passenger side rear tire. People suggested that I is the caliper, but I know it's not the caliper because it's leaking onto the back of the tire and it's coming from above the tire. Any idea what's there? Hopefully just a rubber line. Right now my truck is stuck in the parking lot at my job. The brake fluid leaks out within' maybe a minute and when I press the brakes the fluid shoots out from above the rear passenger side tire. I have absolutely no brake fluid in the truck right now but the brakes are locked. I don't see how that makes much sense, no brake fluid but the brakes are locked? I can't move the truck due to the brakes being locked up and I'm trying to avoid paying a tow truck as my EX is about 25 miles away from where I need to take it. Can someone give me any suggestions?

 

[Dono]

Add brake fluid, jack up that corner of your ex, remove tire, and have co worker step on brake while you watch to see where the brake fluid squirted from.

That's my only suggestion.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Add brake fluid, jack up that corner of your ex, remove tire, and have co worker step on brake while you watch to see where the brake fluid squirted from.

That's my only suggestion.

^ ^ ^ ^

What he said. Most likely the steel line corroded and broke about an inch or so from the fitting where it attaches to the flexible hose. Not sure exactly why but this seems to be the common rust out spot. If it is there, the rest of the steel line will be crap too. Will need to replace the entire line across the differential. Do not try to splice in a short section as it will likely form a new leak shortly since you will have the bend the old line around trying to put in a splice. I replaced all my rear lines front to back a few months ago. It's not terrible, just be patient and use the hand bendable green steel line. The fittings will be reusable as they are brass and dont rust. Be sure to test the lines and bleed the air out.

 

[bobflood]

Once you find the leak, as a TEMPORARY fix just to get the truck home, you can try to splice the two parts together with a chunk of high pressure hose and some hose clamps. Another TEMPORARY suggestion if that won't work is to just crimp closed the steel end of the line from the front at the break point. You will have no braking at that wheel, but this will at least allow you to pressurize the brake system and drive the car to wherever the real repair will be done. Good luck and be safe.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

^ ^ ^ ^

Crimp is darned good idea. Wish had thought of that.

 

[iAaronHD]

Under closer inspection I found out that my right rear caliper is shot to all hell and the brake fluid is shooting right out when I press the brake pedal. Also my master cylinder needs replacing, possibly because of the caliper maybe? Anyway I went ahead and bought all the components for the rear brake setup. New calipers, rotors, and pads along with the master cylinder. I went ahead and buckled down and got it towed as well because there was no way I could move it with the brakes locked up. Thanks for all of your suggestions, until now I didn't know the caliper could leak, I was so sure it would be the steel brake line.

 

[Dono]

I havn't had a caliper failure that bad either. Usually they just start to leak.
At least its getting taken care of. Not a cheap fix.

 

[koda2000]

I havn't had a caliper failure that bad either. Usually they just start to leak.
At least its getting taken care of. Not a cheap fix.

the last reman rear caliper i bought cost me about $35. not exactly an expensive fix. don't buy a brand new caliper. they're not worth it. a caliper is a piston with an o-ring and a seal around it. not a complicated device. reman is fine for a replacement.

BTW, they usually go bad because of rust in the brake fluid because people never flush their brake system. DOT 3/4 brake fluid should be changed every 2 years as it absorbs moister.

 

[Dono]

Koda, have you ever used those automatic brake bleeders that make it a one man job? Its a pain in the a$$ trying to get someone to help. They just don't understand the 'push the brake peddle to the floor and hold until I say release. Maybe something with a check valve might be easier. The reason I ask is that I should probably flush mine also.

 

[koda2000]

Koda, have you ever used those automatic brake bleeders that make it a one man job? Its a pain in the a$$ trying to get someone to help. They just don't understand the 'push the brake peddle to the floor and hold until I say release. Maybe something with a check valve might be easier. The reason I ask is that I should probably flush mine also.

yes, they work great. you just have to keep the master cylinder filled. i've even used the cheap one (small white plastic bottle with a check valve, hose and magnet to hold it in place) with success. it's easier than to get my wife to try to help me. lol.

i didn't mention it, but you can also buy a caliper rebuild kit, if you want to go really cheap (around $5-$6 for 2 caliper kit), good as long as your caliper bore isn't scared. it consists of a new o-ring and seal. you just need to clean up the bore and dress it with some emery cloth. compressed air works best to get the old piston out of the caliper, but keep your fingers out of the way.

 

[jremington59]

yes, they work great. you just have to keep the master cylinder filled. i've even used the cheap one (small white plastic bottle with a check valve, hose and magnet to hold it in place) with success. it's easier than to get my wife to try to help me. lol.

i didn't mention it, but you can also buy a caliper rebuild kit, if you want to go really cheap (around $5-$6 for 2 caliper kit), good as long as your caliper bore isn't scared. it consists of a new o-ring and seal. you just need to clean up the bore and dress it with some emery cloth. compressed air works best to get the old piston out of the caliper, but keep your fingers out of the way.

My wife's got it down pat. Pump the pedal 5 times and on the fifth time press it to the floor and hold until I yell OK.....

 

[bill06447]

By myself, I've always ran a hose from the bleeder to a small container with a bit of brake fluid in it, cracked the bleeder and cycled the pedal about ten times, get out and tighten the bleeder. Worked every time...

Bill

 

[koda2000]

By myself, I've always ran a hose from the bleeder to a small container with a bit of brake fluid in it, cracked the bleeder and cycled the pedal about ten times, get out and tighten the bleeder. Worked every time...

Bill

for that matter, you can gravity bleed into the plastic bottle. usually works eventually. no pedal pumping, or spouse, needed.

 

[bobflood]

I got a vacuum pump with a bleeder kit from someone like Harbor Freight to make brake/clutch bleeding a one person job. Just have to make sure that you keep the master cylinder topped up; you use the vacuum pump to "pull" the fluid thru the lines instead of "pushing" it thru the lines with the pedal. Again, much easier than listening to "Aren't we done yet??" from wife or kid!!

 

[Dono]

Ah, a vac pump. I see them for $40.00.
That really sounds like the best way.

I'll look around locally fro one tats less expensive. My apologies to the OP for the hyjak.

 

[swshawaii]

BTW, they usually go bad because of rust in the brake fluid because people never flush their brake system. DOT 3/4 brake fluid should be changed every 2 years as it absorbs moister.

So true. Recently did a complete brake flush using almost 2 quarts of Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 fluid. After flushing I was inspecting the brake pads and servicing caliper pins and sliders I found a creased caliper dust boot. Although it wasn't torn I decided to replace it with a $4 rebuild kit from RockAuto. This is what remains in the bores AFTER flushing. Just a reminder to open the bleeder screws when compressing the pistons to install new pads, otherwise you're pushing this junk through the ABS system and master cylinder. 2005 ST has 68K and probably never flushed. Bought 3/09 at 46K.

Why Change Brake Fluid?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm

 

[koda2000]

So true. Recently did a complete brake flush using almost 2 quarts of Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 fluid. After flushing I was inspecting the brake pads and servicing caliper pins and sliders I found a creased caliper dust boot. Although it wasn't torn I decided to replace it with a $4 rebuild kit from RockAuto. This is what remains in the bores AFTER flushing. Just a reminder to open the bleeder screws when compressing the pistons to install new pads, otherwise you're pushing this junk through the ABS system and master cylinder. 2005 ST has 68K and probably never flushed. Bought 3/09 at 46K.

all true. and in case anyone is not aware of the correct bleeding sequence, start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest wheel.

 

[1998Exp]

You can also replace the standard bleeder screws with 'one man bleeders'. These have a check valve inside, which prevents air from entering when you release the pedal. To make these work properly, the threads need to be sealed with a brake-fluid compatible grease, sold by the same company which makes the bleeders.
Incidentally, I believe that the vacuum pump method also requires sealing the threads the same way. Otherwise you are sucking air around the threads and there is very little usable vacuum to suck the fluid.

I got a vacuum pump with a bleeder kit from someone like Harbor Freight to make brake/clutch bleeding a one person job. Just have to make sure that you keep the master cylinder topped up; you use the vacuum pump to "pull" the fluid thru the lines instead of "pushing" it thru the lines with the pedal. Again, much easier than listening to "Aren't we done yet??" from wife or kid!!

 

[swshawaii]

Agree. Flushed 2 qts. in under 30 minutes. Use two feet of 3/16" or 1/4" clear tubing. Thread sealant available separately.

Russell Speed Bleeders (Edelbrock)
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed/truck.shtml
http://www.speedbleeder.com/install.htm

Earl's Solo Bleeders (Holley)
http://www.holley.com/types/Solo Bleeds.asp

 

[bobflood]

Incidentally, I believe that the vacuum pump method also requires sealing the threads the same way. Otherwise you are sucking air around the threads and there is very little usable vacuum to suck the fluid.

I have used the vacuum pump method successfully on three difffeernt vehicles without doing anything to the bleeder valve threads.