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Brake Pads

jdm5630

Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Odessa, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
Since i couldnt come to another conclusiond to my brakes rubbing every so often when i come to a stop o ther than the brake pads. I am going to change them out. They dont look as thick as i first thought they looked. So i was wondering if anybody could guide me through the step by step on ho to completely change out the braked pads. I would appreciate it alot. Also what brand of pads you guys reccomend.
 



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I have used many different brands and types of brake pads, and so far my nod goes to either Performance Friction Carbon Metallic (get them at AutoZone) or Bendix TitaniuMetallic (get them at Advance Auto Parts, possibly other places). One thing I'd never get for any vehicle is ceramic brake pads...Not even if they were factory installed, like a lot of the newer cars. They just don't have as good a "bite" is a semi-metallic pad does.

Changing them is simple...
Remove the tire, then remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, and remove the old pads. Then, using a C-clamp or similar device, press the caliper piston(s) back into the bore(s). Make sure you loosen the cap on the master cylinder to allow the excess fluid to push out if necessary.
Installing the new pads is a bit tricky on these, as there's a little spring clip that needs to be pressed in a bit to get the pad back into the bracket tightly. Once you see it, you'll figure it out. After that's done, just reinstall the calipers and tighten the bolts, put the wheels back on, put the cap back on the master cylinder tightly, and press the brake pedal till it gets firm. If you don't do this last step, the first few times you hit the brake pedal, you won't have any brakes whatsoever. Definitely not the thing to forget.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else. A Haynes or similar manual will walk you thru it with pictures but it's pretty simple once you get into it.

If I'm leaving out anything, I'm sure someone else will correct me.
 






if you see any groves in the rotor you will have to have them turned down a lot of auto parts stores can do this if yor brakes pulse they will need to be turned also
 






I just bought new rotors for mine. It wasn't much more than having them turned, and it just made the whole process go that much easier.

I think new Duralast rotors from AutoZone were a little over 30 bucks a piece.
 






oh wow! just 30 bucks a peice? thats not bad at all
 






I have used many different brands and types of brake pads, and so far my nod goes to either Performance Friction Carbon Metallic (get them at AutoZone) or Bendix TitaniuMetallic (get them at Advance Auto Parts, possibly other places). One thing I'd never get for any vehicle is ceramic brake pads...Not even if they were factory installed, like a lot of the newer cars. They just don't have as good a "bite" is a semi-metallic pad does.

Changing them is simple...
Remove the tire, then remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, and remove the old pads. Then, using a C-clamp or similar device, press the caliper piston(s) back into the bore(s). Make sure you loosen the cap on the master cylinder to allow the excess fluid to push out if necessary.
Installing the new pads is a bit tricky on these, as there's a little spring clip that needs to be pressed in a bit to get the pad back into the bracket tightly. Once you see it, you'll figure it out. After that's done, just reinstall the calipers and tighten the bolts, put the wheels back on, put the cap back on the master cylinder tightly, and press the brake pedal till it gets firm. If you don't do this last step, the first few times you hit the brake pedal, you won't have any brakes whatsoever. Definitely not the thing to forget.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else. A Haynes or similar manual will walk you thru it with pictures but it's pretty simple once you get into it.

If I'm leaving out anything, I'm sure someone else will correct me.

This post saved me $213

I decided to grab a Haynes manual, front and rear pads and a can of brake cleaner and tokk an hour and a half and changed my pads instead of let the tire shop talk me into $300+ worth of work after spending $606 in tires already!

Thanks
 






I would also get the autozone brake kit (about $8) which is for both sides. It comes with new 'pillow blocks' so your pads don't get stuck in one spot as the old ones wear out, and new rubber protectors and the little rubber bushing that goes over one of the sliders. I also used the performance friction carbon metalic pads and new rotors and they are doing great after about 4000 miles.
 






I would also get the autozone brake kit (about $8) which is for both sides. It comes with new 'pillow blocks' so your pads don't get stuck in one spot as the old ones wear out, and new rubber protectors and the little rubber bushing that goes over one of the sliders. I also used the performance friction carbon metalic pads and new rotors and they are doing great after about 4000 miles.

Some of the new pads come with the kit. Check the box before you purchase the kits.
 






I paid a little more for duralast rotors but with lifetime warranty on pads from autozone. I will continue to do my own brakes and I'm definitely no mechanic. just willing to get dirty and put a little muscle into it though. i go with the plan of changing rotors and turning them every other pad change. so each set of rotors meets only two sets of pads, with pads lasting about 30K miles based on my driving style. fluid flush every other pad change, which ends up being every time rotors get turned :confused:.
 






I paid a little more for duralast rotors but with lifetime warranty on pads from autozone. I will continue to do my own brakes and I'm definitely no mechanic. just willing to get dirty and put a little muscle into it though. i go with the plan of changing rotors and turning them every other pad change. so each set of rotors meets only two sets of pads, with pads lasting about 30K miles based on my driving style. fluid flush every other pad change, which ends up being every time rotors get turned :confused:.

Yeah, the crappiest duralast pads, and two new duralast front rotors cost me 175$. Luckily my rotors didn't need to be changed (i bought them as a precautionary messure). But me and my dad were happy to see how easy it is to swap out the rotors, so next front brake job we're gonna put on some new ones; hopefully PowerSlots :)
 






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