Brakes Bleeding Procedure | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Brakes Bleeding Procedure

beauboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 28, 2007
Messages
253
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City, State
Summerville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Ford Explorer XLT
Here's one for ya..

I've just replaced my Master Cylinder and bench bled in accordance with the my Haynes manual. I was all set to begin bleeding my brakes.

My Haynes manual (which I love) says to bleed the MC first, followed by the RABS valve (attach the clear rubber tubing to the bleeder valve), and then proceed to the wheels.

My Chiltons manual mentions nothing about the RABS valve, saying just to bleed at the wheels. Oh yeah, my RABS valve doesn't even have a bleeder valve.

So now I turn to the experts. What's the right way to bleed the brakes on my '91 EX?

Thanks in advance for the assist.
 



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Start with the rear wheel cylinder that is farthest away from the master cylinder, then the other rear wheel, then the front, farthest away then the remaining one
 












I agree. ABS should recover itself, leave it be & work the brakes from most distant from the MC to the closest.
 






Yeah. I got the rotation down, but the bit about the RABS bleeder valve confusion between Haynes and Chilton's really threw me.

OK, so I bled the brakes from farthest to closest, rear to front, and got out all the air. When I took it for a test drive, backing out of the driveway, I hit the breaks and my RABS light on the dash came on. Cycled the ignition and it's still on. I HATE bleeding brakes. It's probably easier to just have a shop do it.
 






Make sure the battery is disconnected. You can often fool the computer and the ABS sensor will not register. That's what worked for me. I agree with everyone else, start at the back and go forward.
 






As Explodr94 said, just disconnect the battery for about 10 mins. The ABS is going through your computer & the disconnect will clear it of the 'old way' it used to think, for a better term. Basically, the computer may be seeing the ABS is sending signal 'X', and 'X' is when I turn on the light. Now that you fixed the problem, the computer still sees 'X' as bad.

Clear as mud?
 






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