Brakes dragging | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Brakes dragging

96AWD5.LOL

Elite Explorer
Joined
March 14, 2012
Messages
77
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44
Location
Austin, TX
City, State
Austin, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XLT 4x4 - "Red Velvet"
Let me say before I begin my quest for help that I, indeed did search through the forums for my problems. I encountered a lot of possible solutions. This post is here in the hopes that my circumstances might change/narrow down the problem.

Starting out I have replaced all 4 rotors with new including new pads. And replaced lower ball joints. I greased all 7 slide pins. Yes you read seven not 8. The one pin I did not grease (front drivers side) caused the brakes to drag turning in any direction. If I drove straight no problems whatsoever. Only when turning... So today I got my ass back under and greased the ever dry pin and figured all would be well. At first there was a noticeable difference but after a few miles and turns my problem is back. You can tell it is dragging on the bottom side closest to the hat. There is a ring about .5" in diameter.


Possible solutions foud: 1. Your hub bearings are bad. Answer, in replacing all the brake parts I checked them and found they were plenty smooth. 2. Your caliper is bad. Question, how so? What would cause them to dag only at the bottom?

This is really getting on my nerves. ANY feedback I'll take openly.
 



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Which brake is dragging? Can you smell the pads?

And what does replacing the ball joints have to do with a dragging brake?
 






Which brake is dragging? Can you smell the pads?

And what does replacing the ball joints have to do with a dragging brake?

Drivers side front is dragging. The driver side pads don't smell any hotter then the others. To my knowledge the balljoint has nothing to do with braking. I just mentioned what I replaced all at the same time.

Driving in a straight line they don't drag so far as I can hear.
 






I don't think you're brake is dragging. I think it's your AWD binding when you turn....
 






Do explain?
 






There is a viscous coupler in the transfer case that allows the axles to turn at different speed unless, when there is major slippage the coupler locks up which aids traction in slippery situations. The coupler can fail and stay locked up all the time and when you go to turn the axles are locked together and cannot turn at different speeds like is required in a turn so it binds and drives kind funny.
 






Calipers can fail when the bore and or piston become corroded or dirty/crusty and the piston does not fully release after depression, partially corroded piston causing the piston to get sideways in the bore and drag on one side is entirely possible.
Did the pistons push in nicely ? Did you push the pistons in "squarely" ?
 






I pushed the pistons in evenly. but then I went to reassemble the caliper and pads and found I needed to push the rear piston back in farther. I took the old pad and used a C-clamp like always and pushed it in the remainder of the way.

The more I think on it it has to be the caliper in a way because of the defining ring on the rotor. This as apposed to the passenger side rotor where it has worn evenly. I shall take pics tomorrow after work.

This AWD binding that has been mentioned would lead me to believe that turning a corner should significantly slow the vehicle down. So far this is not the case.
 






OK so I this afternoon I finished putting my new interior back in and started the truck cold and it didn't grind turning either directions. Drove it a mile, nothing. Took it on the highway for a couple miles and came back to the neighborhood where it began making noises. It's only after driving a while does it do this. Viscous coupling over heating locking it together? Would a fluid change help?

Im betting that the fluids have never been changed.

Suggestions?

BTW thanks for the responses talking it through helps.
 






Pull your front driveshaft and drive it around and see how it feels. If it doesn't have the problem you know it's a front wheel drive issue. Just don't park on a hill and leave it as the vehicle can "drift". Put on the ebrake.
 






I understand the drift in park issue but what long term affect to the car will happen if I take out the front drive shaft for a while? If indeed it winds up being the transfer case, will it just hurt the transfer case more?
 






That issue has been discussed here a lot and I don't think there was a clear answer. You don't have to leave it out long. Put it back in after you check it.
 






Ok so I took the DS out and it made my binding disappear. It turns by it self without sowing down which is great.

I read through the thread about front DS removels on AWD models and there still doesn't seem to be a clear consensus.

On another note I felt as if there was more power being put down. Didn't see much change in gas mileage with my scan gauge. Im going to change the ATF in the TC and put it all back together.

How do I inspect the front driveshaft? Is there something specific I need to look for? The ujoints are in decent shape.

Thanks for the replies.
 






You need to inspect all the u-joints ans make sure they turn freely. If they seem marginal replace them. Also there might be a problem with your axle shafts. It could be a bad cc joint is causing the dragging. Since you only have 115 k miles on the explorer it is unlikely the transfercase failed.
 






Look at the CV end of the front shaft and see if there's any "shuck" in it. It's easy to see if the CV is worn. When you put it back in see if there's any up and down play in it. I also felt a vibration from mine when it was going bad.

I've also been told the binding can occur with a bad viscous coupler but I don't know if it's true or not.
 






The ujoint is cheap and not difficult to put in so might do yourself a favor and replace it while the shaft is out as a preventative maintence since you probably still have the factory sealed original.

You can usually feel problems with the cv end by slowly going through a full 360 degree rotation. Should turn smoothly with no binding but not loose. If you find any points where it sticks, or on the other extreme it just flops right around, the joint needs replacing. Like any cv do not hyper-extend the joint to the sides or the bearings can pop out of place leaving you with a very not fun reassembly.
 






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