Brakes for '92 EB Explorer

[gearhead 007]

This is the list of parts, lessoned leaned and comments concerning the front brake job on my '92 EB Explorer 4 X 4, build date 05/92.

Parts List:
Bearings: Timekin LM603049
Race: Timekin LM603011
Wheel Seal: Timekin 4250
Rotor: EBC GD7035R and L
Brake Pad: EBC DP61272
Caliper Grease: Sta-Lube Part# SL3301 (MFG: CRC)
Bearing Grease: Valvoline Multipurpose Grease for Ford Lincoln Mercury Part# 632

Lessoned Learned:
- EBC Brakes are expensive.
- Small parts for the automatic hubs are not available from Ford. The hub is available from Ford for >$300.
- Use the bearing race that comes with the new bearing. The races removed from the EBC Rotor was chinese even though the rotor is manufactured in the UK.

Comments: In my opinion, the 2 most important safety components on a vehicle are brakes and tires. If either of these 2 components are deficient, the chance of an accident is high. This is the second set of EBC brakes I have used on my Explorer. I can say without a doubt, EBC Brakes are worth the money.
I use Yokohama Geolander Tires.
Automatic hub parts are expensive and I will go to a manual hub when the need arises.
The EBC and Yokohama combination works great for the driving conditions in piedmont NC. Most of my miles are on the highway and I regularly tow a 5X8 trailer with a 1/2 ton load. Make sure to choose components that suit your environment.

 

[Tony H]

After a few hundred miles., Check the tighness of the Spindle Nut.
Manual hubs are cheaper and more reliable. The convenience of 'just pushing a button' is not worth the " I hope they work" feeling you get everytime.

 

[gearhead 007]

I agree. I check the "button" once a month to make sure it engages. I have fixed the motor on the transfer case once about 5 years ago. The dielectric grease and the liberal use of Permatex Blue to seal the unit made the difference.

I have an appointment at my friends' auto repair shop to fix the oil filter adapter leak and I will check the spindle nut when it is on the lift. Thanks for the heads up.

Gearhead

 

[gearhead 007]

Here is a link to a few pics of the EBC Brake Project.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2042486&l=006f03da60&id=1172688332

 

[Rhett]

Good post gearhead_007. Is this http://www.ebcbrakes.com/ the place to get EBC-brand brakes? Or should a fella buy them at some other outlet?

I have done my own brakes for about 10 years, and I have found that my 94 Explorer REQUIRES high quality rotors, pads and bearings, as well as regular caliper slide lubing, or else the components all wear prematurely.

Last time (January 08), I took a gamble with the slotted rotors from Explorer Express. After about 15,000 miles, they are toast, probably beyond machining in terms of how badly they are warped.

So, gearhead_007, can these EBC brakes *take* it? I've used Timken bearings for years and KNOW they work. But can the EBC stuff handle the Ozark Mountains, where it's UP-DOWN-UP-DOWN around town, (on a 5,000 lb vehicle that clearly should have four wheel disc brakes)?

 

[gearhead 007]

I ordered my brakes from www.placeforbrakes.com

I am fairly hard on brakes. While I do not abuse the brakes, I definitely use them. For example, there are 2 off ramps I use every day where I haul the Explorer from 70MPH to 0MPH in short order.

I believe the break in period makes the difference how brakes will perform over their life. I am very easy on the brakes for the first 300 to 400 miles after the install. I will lift off the gas and coast much sooner then usual to reduce using the brakes. When at a stop light, I will put the transmission in neutral and use the emergency brake to stop the last few feet to prevent hot spots on the disc. This past weekend, a friend and myself hauled 2 dirt bikes, all the gear and ourselves and while the brakes have about 300 miles, I can tell they are still "bedding in".

It can be tough being easy on new brakes when you live in the mountains, etc. Look at question 9 at this site http://www.ebcbrakes.com/typicalq&a.shtml

A few other things: Check the run out when installing new brakes; make sure the rear brakes are adjusted and working properly; Check the !@#$ ABS Hydraulic Unit for proper operation; check the front bearings after 200 miles or so.

Good Luck.

 

[Rhett]

If these EBC rotors can handle a boneheaded mistake (like not gearing down going down a pass in the Rockies) then I'll be very happy. I think that was how I killed these rotors...with only 800 miles on them, I smoked them pretty good by mistake.

One of those things where you go "I *know* better! How could I have done that?" but human beings, especially me, make mistakes some times.

 

[gearhead 007]

LOL.

We all break stupid every once in a while. I knew the first set of EBC pads needed to be replaced and I waited a week too long. The inner pad on the left front came apart and damaged the rotor. The outside of the LF rotor and the RF rotor showed little wear and just needed new pads. That was an expensive mistake.

 

[Rhett]

Are you using EBC Greenstuff 6000 or 7000 pads?

Also there is another pad EBC has, called the "Ultimax". Have you ever heard of it or used it?

Would you recommend EBC's slotted/drilled rotor over their plain rotor? After my last experience with slotted/drilled I'm a little leery.

 

[gearhead 007]

I use the 6000 green pad.

The Ultimax pads are an OEM replacement. These pads will work like the stock pads.

Concerning drilled and slotted rotors: it comes down to what you need as opposed to what you want. Do you need a high performance set up or will stock brakes do the job. If your Exploder is a cruiser, you do not live in the mountains and/or you do not tow anything, go with the plain rotor and the Ultimax pads. If you tow stuff, live in the mountains, and/or drive aggressive, use the slotted rotors and green stuff pads.

Concerning your "Last Experience": You did not elaborate but I assume it was bad. These suggestions cover most "Bad Experiences". First, I can not stress enough the need to do a proper brake pad "bedding in". I have around 1000 miles on new brakes and they are just now "bedding in" where I can HIT the brakes with confidence. Second, slotted and drilled rotors are noisy. EBC calls it Aeroplaning, I call it VzVzVzVzVz. Third, research the pad/rotor combination before purchasing. I use the EBC setup because they are matched.

I hope this helps.

Are you using EBC Greenstuff 6000 or 7000 pads?

Also there is another pad EBC has, called the "Ultimax". Have you ever heard of it or used it?

Would you recommend EBC's slotted/drilled rotor over their plain rotor? After my last experience with slotted/drilled I'm a little leery.

 

[Rhett]

I think I'll give the 6000's + EBC slotteds a chance.

I'm currently running slotteds so I know about the noise. I also used to run Performance Friction brand carbon metallic pads to good effect, so I know about brake dust.

I'm a little concerned that there is something wrong with my pass side front, because every time I tear it down to the spindle, and put it back together, that wheel never seems to turn well. Has a "hitch" in its rotation. I have never found the cause, thru various rotors and seals and calipers and bearing sets. Maybe the wheel itself is slightly bent?

Also, one these trucks...even now after 9 years I am still shocked at how much rolling resistance there is on the front wheels. For a time I experimented with running my spindle adjusting nut a little looser, but then the wheel play was unacceptable. So tighter, but then tremendous rolling resistance.

Have you noticed this, or is this abnormal in your experience?

 

[gearhead 007]

Concerning your "hitch": make sure to use the races that come with the bearings and they are seated properly in the disc. Make sure the spindle is not bent. I check wheel straightness when I get the wheels balanced.

Concerning rolling resistance: My passenger front is either too tight or too loose using the stock retainer nut and key. I left the wheel a little loose. Too tight causes premature bearing wear due to heat. This is a catch 22 because too loose AND too tight cause bearing wear. The fix is replacing the original automatic hub with a manual hub. It is my understanding that a manual hub uses a lock nut as opposed to the key used in the original. The lock nut allows the proper bearing torque adjustment.

I think I'll give the 6000's + EBC slotteds a chance.

I'm currently running slotteds so I know about the noise. I also used to run Performance Friction brand carbon metallic pads to good effect, so I know about brake dust.

I'm a little concerned that there is something wrong with my pass side front, because every time I tear it down to the spindle, and put it back together, that wheel never seems to turn well. Has a "hitch" in its rotation. I have never found the cause, thru various rotors and seals and calipers and bearing sets. Maybe the wheel itself is slightly bent?

Also, one these trucks...even now after 9 years I am still shocked at how much rolling resistance there is on the front wheels. For a time I experimented with running my spindle adjusting nut a little looser, but then the wheel play was unacceptable. So tighter, but then tremendous rolling resistance.

Have you noticed this, or is this abnormal in your experience?