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Brakes pulse/surge and looking for opinions on parts

Kjhadfield

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 21, 2014
Messages
594
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6
City, State
Panama City Beach, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 sport trac 4wd
I have assumed I needed front brakes replaced for some time. It started with a squeak/metal grinding (assumed this was the wear indicator) and after some time would not make noise and again come back after some time. Then the pulsing/surge when braking started (I assume this is the rotors warped from lack of timing pad repair).

I haven't had the money, didn't want to get the cheapest either. Now the holidays are here, I don't really have the money but can defer interest for 6 months if bought from Amazon. I have been comparing prices between rock auto and Amazon, for the most part are a few dollars more/less between either place.

I have replaced pads/rotors 1 time and on this truck about 5 yrs ago. Plan on doing the work myself, maybe with the help of a friend for the bleeding and/or flushing. I'm confident I can do it if I refresh on the process. I was looking at getting wagner qc833 pads and Raybestos 680027 rotors (Just for clarification, there isn't a left/right rotor. I just have to get 2, normally sold as individual versus the pads sold as a pair?). I'm pretty sure I have the correct part #s ? I also was thinking of getting both calipers, Raybestos FRC11203/204, just to do a complete start from new. I was reading and it seems proper for every brake jobs to service the calipers and don't know if they have ever been done and would also feel better buying a complete caliper and hardware versus rebuilt mine (never done any caliper work so a little gun shy). I also was thinking a flush would be a good idea, not knowing if it was ever done. Good idea? is there better brake fluid I could use, like synthetic for oil?

A couple other parts I was unsure of were if the Raybestos H6011 Drag Reduction Clip would be a good idea to extend life of pads? Would it be good to get new hoses/clips if it was suggested for a flush? Is there anything else small misc parts/hardware or large I should look at also while I'm down there?

I know there are scattered threads floating around and I have gone through to help narrow my decision down but before I pull the trigger… thanks for any help/opinions
 



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Just be sure to put the calipers on the correct side, with The bleeder UP! If you don't they won't bleed. You'd be surprised how many people get them on the wrong side. In some cases you can purchase "loaded" calipers that include the pads. My 02c worth.
 






This site turned me on to Rock Auto and they have never done me wrong with the price or quality of parts.

As to the correct part numbers...que the Hawaiian music...you'll understand that inside joke very soon.

( The guy is a walking parts # book, ALWAYS impressed)
 






As to the correct part numbers...que the Hawaiian music...you'll understand that inside joke very soon. The guy is a walking parts # book
Hardly buddy, but thanks for the compliment. (Man, do I have YOU fooled) LOL ;)

Kjhadfield- As for getting correct aftermarket part numbers, RockAuto is as accurate as I've seen, and usually has good pics that match the description. I highly recommend you remove the wheels for close inspection rather than ordering parts blindly. Should you need to return, shipping would be expensive and probably cost more than you're saving. Also, heavy parts such as calipers usually require returning used cores for credit and you must factor in the return shipping on them. On certain rebuildable parts, it's more feasible to buy locally where you can also get warranty without shipping. Pull the wheels and post pics if you need to. GL
 






mustang6878- The REAL parts guy and ST guru is right above your post. ncranchero IS the ST man and a great moderator.
 






As to the correct part numbers...que the Hawaiian music...you'll understand that inside joke very soon.

( The guy is a walking parts # book, ALWAYS impressed)

That's funny right there, I don't care who you are that's funny!!!

So true, between North Carolina and Hawaii we have two of the best Guru's out there. They've both saved me and helped me out countless times over the years on here and MyST.com. :notworthy:notworthy
 






Just be sure to put the calipers on the correct side, with The bleeder UP! If you don't they won't bleed. You'd be surprised how many people get them on the wrong side. In some cases you can purchase "loaded" calipers that include the pads. My 02c worth.

I have actually read another post that the guy was looking for help after a brake job and pedal went straight to the floor and I believe it could of been you that asked him in which position the bleeder was. Thanks and if that was you past posts really do help out. I do try searching this forum every time before I post a thread, I know there is a wealth of info that gets repeated.
 






This site turned me on to Rock Auto and they have never done me wrong with the price or quality of parts.

As to the correct part numbers...que the Hawaiian music...you'll understand that inside joke very soon.

( The guy is a walking parts # book, ALWAYS impressed)

That's where I was originally looking, rockauto. I knew exactly who you were referring, always has links up his sleeve at the drop of a hat <-- very helpful!
 






Hardly buddy, but thanks for the compliment. (Man, do I have YOU fooled) LOL ;)

Kjhadfield- As for getting correct aftermarket part numbers, RockAuto is as accurate as I've seen, and usually has good pics that match the description. I highly recommend you remove the wheels for close inspection rather than ordering parts blindly. Should you need to return, shipping would be expensive and probably cost more than you're saving. Also, heavy parts such as calipers usually require returning used cores for credit and you must factor in the return shipping on them. On certain rebuildable parts, it's more feasible to buy locally where you can also get warranty without shipping. Pull the wheels and post pics if you need to. GL

That's how I cross referenced the part #s threw rock auto, didn't want to trust the Amazon fit guide. With the pads and rotors, the price difference was a few bucks both ways (I think pads were cheaper at Amazon by 3 and rotors by rockauto cheaper by 3). I didn't notice a core on the calipers for Amazon and think is was about 50-52 per, rock auto was 50 for one and maybe 10-15 more for the other (but I haven't ordered these yet). I will pull the wheels and post some photos.

When I jack the truck up and before I pop the wheel, what exactly does moving the wheel sideways check for, wheel bearings? Is that a good idea to check. Any other parts I can examine more closely with the wheel off?

I feel blessed, handful of top members reply. I know every time I see these (and a few others) answer a post, I'm looking in the right direction!
 






Had another issue I just noticed today not thinking it was related, the parking brake and the brake light indicator. I assumed the light was specific to the parking brake. I searched and came up with this…
By ncranchero
"Originally Posted by chad551 View Post
There is a switch where the parking brake pedal is mounted. That switch may be loose, it happened in my ST as well. I adjusted the cable and the switch and all is good now. The parking brake light has nothing to due with your fluid level in the master cylinder, as it is a cable that runs from the pedal to the brake.
The red "Brake !" indicator does in fact indicate low fluid level as well as parking brake engagement.
From the manual:
"Illumination after releasing the parking brake indicates low brake fluid level and the brake system should be inspected immediately by your servicing dealership."
"
I'll be checking the fluid also in the morning
 












Whats next, equal time and space for Autozone, NAPA,Pep Boys, Advance, O'Reilly,Carquest...Bob's Parts store, Acme Salvage, Juan's Discount Parts, Truck Corral...you get the idea.......... IMHO the above post is a huge turnoff......Moderators?
 






Whats next, equal time and space for Autozone, NAPA,Pep Boys, Advance, O'Reilly,Carquest...Bob's Parts store, Acme Salvage, Juan's Discount Parts, Truck Corral...you get the idea.......... IMHO the above post is a huge turnoff......Moderators?


Why would you say that we help to support this forum. If you need help with your application. We can also help to answer any parts questions that you may have.

Tony
 






Well I figured out the parking brake light not coming on with the parking brake on and the light coming on while driving with parking brake off. I 1st checked the fluid which was low, hasn't been too long since I last checked. I'm thinking because pads are worn, you lose fluid faster? Or something's else entirely? I filled her up and that solved the brake light coming on while driving. Then on to the switch, I tried to manually test it and it wouldn't activate the light. So I pulled it out and didn't seem all that bad, corroded and such but cleaned it and the harness plug with electrical cleaner. Put it back in and nothing, so I pulled it off again and played with it to figure out exactly how it operates. There is a washer on the bottom that makes contact with metal teeth. The backside of the washer, that actually touches the teeth, was rusted so I took some sand paper and took it to bare metal. Installed and working like new.

I did get my pads and rotors in but haven't yet pulled the wheels to look around and take some photos to post, in case there's something obvious I'll need to do also.
 






Pads must be very low or non existent to trip the parking brake light sensor in the MC reservoir. After topping off, you must remove some fluid to prevent overflow when you install the new pads. Also, cleaning and lubricating the caliper slide pins and bores with silicone brake lube is important and often overlooked that will cause issues. Keep posted when you're ready to tackle this, your 2002 ST's front disc brakes are very easy to service compared to the rear drum and parking brakes.
 






Pads must be very low or non existent to trip the parking brake light sensor in the MC reservoir. After topping off, you must remove some fluid to prevent overflow when you install the new pads. Also, cleaning and lubricating the caliper slide pins and bores with silicone brake lube is important and often overlooked that will cause issues. Keep posted when you're ready to tackle this, your 2002 ST's front disc brakes are very easy to service compared to the rear drum and parking brakes.

Good note on overflow with new pads, didn't think of that. When I checked the fluid it was dark (dirty) and read it should be clear like new, i should flush to shouldn't I? I have seen a couple videos but never have bleed the brakes. I Thought I seen that 4wd are easier too, if true I have that going for me
 












Good note on overflow with new pads, didn't think of that. When I checked the fluid it was dark (dirty) and read it should be clear like new, i should flush to shouldn't I? I have seen a couple videos but never have bleed the brakes. I Thought I seen that 4wd are easier too, if true I have that going for me

I'd like to chime in here. I live in the rust belt, SW Ontario Canada, and have had good luck with not having to replace calipers as of late. Not so good luck removing the rotors. Rust blisters form on the inner surface that is to slide over the outer diameter of the hub. That is a PITA to work with. You have to chip off the blisters to avoid harsh force on the bearings. And it ain't easy! Don't drive them off with a hammer as bearing failure will follow. Coating that surface or using coated rotors should alleviate future problems in that regard You may or may not encounter the preceding. I'm also a believer of bleeding out the old fluid when depressing the caliper pistons for replacement of the pads. Saves sending old dirty fluid back into the system. Simply open the bleeders and let the fluid drain as you depress the pistons. The effort used doing so will be a sign if the calipers do need replacing. Easy smooth depression should indicate a nicely working caliper. Light effort with a C-clamp should be all it takes. Better yet a good large set of channel locks. Of course if the bleeder doesn't open, you can't really do things correctly and then they should be replaced. If taking the old calipers off 1st and heading to get new ones to save a trip back with the cores, take the brackets with you as some want it as well and you get another. Save your banjo bolts. Take the slider pins apart and clean and lube well with silicon lube, NOT Neversieze. They are different top and bottom do don't mix them up. Neversieze on metal mating surfaces is always good. Always check the fit of the pads well-the ease with which they slide on the stainless slides. I always as of late had to chip away and clean up the machined cast surface to make clearance. I've been trying Neversieze under those slides as well to see if it helps. Most quality pads come with lube for this area. Keep it off the rotors and pad surfaces.

Just did mine last weekend. Was just going to service things until I noticed more wear than I could see from the outside and having the parts at hand already simplified things once I determined the calipers were OK. Just remember, once a sticky caliper, always a sticky caliper. My buddy didn't wanna spend the money to replace his rears on a F150 as I didn't like the way they depressed, and now has to as one ate a set of pads in 18 months.
 






when you do your fluid swap DO NOT LET that well go dry or you will be back looking for spongy brake help
 



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I'd like to chime in here. I live in the rust belt, SW Ontario Canada, and have had good luck with not having to replace calipers as of late. Not so good luck removing the rotors. Rust blisters form on the inner surface that is to slide over the outer diameter of the hub. That is a PITA to work with. You have to chip off the blisters to avoid harsh force on the bearings. And it ain't easy! Don't drive them off with a hammer as bearing failure will follow. Coating that surface or using coated rotors should alleviate future problems in that regard You may or may not encounter the preceding. I'm also a believer of bleeding out the old fluid when depressing the caliper pistons for replacement of the pads. Saves sending old dirty fluid back into the system. Simply open the bleeders and let the fluid drain as you depress the pistons. The effort used doing so will be a sign if the calipers do need replacing. Easy smooth depression should indicate a nicely working caliper. Light effort with a C-clamp should be all it takes. Better yet a good large set of channel locks. Of course if the bleeder doesn't open, you can't really do things correctly and then they should be replaced. If taking the old calipers off 1st and heading to get new ones to save a trip back with the cores, take the brackets with you as some want it as well and you get another. Save your banjo bolts. Take the slider pins apart and clean and lube well with silicon lube, NOT Neversieze. They are different top and bottom do don't mix them up. Neversieze on metal mating surfaces is always good. Always check the fit of the pads well-the ease with which they slide on the stainless slides. I always as of late had to chip away and clean up the machined cast surface to make clearance. I've been trying Neversieze under those slides as well to see if it helps. Most quality pads come with lube for this area. Keep it off the rotors and pad surfaces.

Just did mine last weekend. Was just going to service things until I noticed more wear than I could see from the outside and having the parts at hand already simplified things once I determined the calipers were OK. Just remember, once a sticky caliper, always a sticky caliper. My buddy didn't wanna spend the money to replace his rears on a F150 as I didn't like the way they depressed, and now has to as one ate a set of pads in 18 months.
Thanks for this. The rotors I bought are not coated (the hats), I was actually thinking about painting the hats (inside & out) and the vents just to prevent as much rust as I can. Was planning on tapping the rotor surface and put a few coats of black on (not looking for bling or eye popping red). Any further tips on this?

I also decided to replace calipers (maybe blindly but this way I can buy a rebuild kit for the old and teach myself how to care for the new calipers in the future). I also was wanting to paint these black as well and do so before I installed everything. Any tips? The reman calipers are attached to the brackets, so do I need to remove/loosen the bolts to disconnect the caliper from bracket in order to install on truck? If so I'll paint as 2 pieces but if not I'll paint while connected. I will be tapping off the bolt heads/rubber sleeves/bleeder bolt and piston area. Actually I really didn't want to paint the inside of the caliper or bracket, just the outside. So should I just tape off the inside and then just spray. The only other prep would be to spay brake cleaner to remove any residue from factory? If the caliper and bracket need to be separated to install, do I need to re lube the slide pins (they are pre lubed, I believe).

Since I'm replacing the calipers I was going to flush/bleed the fluid while the old calipers were still on to avoid that dirty fluid from entering the new caliper and then bleed again once new calipers installed. Any tips on this, besides never run master dry? I just looked at all my parts and seen I'll have to reuse the bolts for bracket to (knuckle), I would prefer new bolts if anyone knew size and where to purchase?

I did buy a torque wrench today from harbor freight so I can get the caliper bolts and everything right, I'm the guy that probably makes everything to tight which is why I bought it. 20-150 ft lbs. where could I find the specs, my manual. The only thing left to get I think are turkey baster and either a hand pump bleeder or make my own with clear tubing and bottle…and of course brake fluid.

I know this is a long post, just want to do it right the 1st time. Been watching lots of YouTube videos and reading but I really am more of a hands on learner.

Thanks again to all for your help!
 






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