Brakes pulse/surge and looking for opinions on parts

[mrbrett]

My experience is: Get high-temp brake paint, or it won't hold up.

 

[Kjhadfield]

My experience is: Get high-temp brake paint, or it won't hold up.

Yes, I already have duplicolor caliper spray can matte black.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Did some more looking and I will need to separate bracket from caliper (new reman) in order to install, so ill go ahead and separate to paint them. Since the guides are pre lubed, it shouldn't be necessary for me to do so correct?

I've had the rotors for some time now but never bothered to open the box till tonight but it seems I won't be painting these as they are already coated black on the hats and edges. Have read but wanted opinions here on putting light coat of anti seize on the inside and outside of the hat (just the hat), good idea?

Still wanting to get new bolts for bracket and knuckle, an ideas? Also have read about locktite on these bolts, good idea? I do have the new torque wrench I just got to make sure it's tighten to specs. If it's a good idea, blue or red?

Thanks again

 

[mrbrett]

I used red LocTite on my bracket and knuckle bolts, although given the heat cycling brakes see LocTite won't really work as intended. It was inexpensive peace of mind that the bolts won't rattle all the way out if somehow they came loose.

I wouldn't go too bananas with the anti-seize on the rotor hat. The outside (face where the wheel attaches) should just be clean and free of debris, just as the factory intended. The inside of the hat should be the same, but I have sometimes put the slightest bit of anti seize on the snout of the unit bearing so I can separate the rotor more easily next time.

You shouldn't have to lube your guides, but brake grease is a handy thing to have around for a thin layer on any contact points (i.e. back of the brake pads, or any slide areas) to keep the squeaks away.

Just be careful with any of these products on the friction surface of the brake rotor or pads.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I used red LocTite on my bracket and knuckle bolts, although given the heat cycling brakes see LocTite won't really work as intended. It was inexpensive peace of mind that the bolts won't rattle all the way out if somehow they came loose.i thought the red was supposed to be stronger than blue. I have been reading a thread about the possible scare of those bolts coming loose, so between the correct torque and loctite, peace of mind would be a plus

I wouldn't go too bananas with the anti-seize on the rotor hat. The outside (face where the wheel attaches) should just be clean and free of debris, just as the factory intended. The inside of the hat should be the same, but I have sometimes put the slightest bit of anti seize on the snout of the unit bearing so I can separate the rotor more easily next time.i was just thinking a very small dab for future removal. I guess I wouldn't need to on the hat since they are coated stock

You shouldn't have to lube your guides, but brake grease is a handy thing to have around for a thin layer on any contact points (i.e. back of the brake pads, or any slide areas) to keep the squeaks away.i did buy the crc brand brake grease in case. Although my Wagner pads mention applications for pads w/ shims to use silicon lube on back of shim but none else-given reasons, compounds that are tacky may pull shim out of back plate and petro is bad for rubber. The crc doesn't say silicon but does say it's safe on rubber, so I'm thinking ill be fine using crc brake grease. I also bought the crc brake quite spray stuff. Was thinking of having the grease for future use on slides and such and that spray for shims and back of pads, thoughts?

Just be careful with any of these products on the friction surface of the brake rotor or pads.

Thank you that really helps confirm some things for me, feeling more and more confident. I just need to figure out that bracket/knuckle bolt for replacement. What are thoughts on banjo bolts? Clean up reuse or get new, I don't plan on replacing the brake lines this go around. I wanting ss but haven't had luck on finding any and think they need to be custom made, more than I want to spend right now.

 

[swshawaii]

I don't plan on replacing the brake lines this go around. I wanting ss but haven't had luck on finding any and think they need to be custom made, more than I want to spend right now.

WRXtra Braided SS Brake Lines Inquiry
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398127

 

[Kjhadfield]

WRXtra Braided SS Brake Lines Inquiry
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398127

Thank you sir for the link. Did you ever buy the ss? Thoughts? I like the idea of better brake feel but I'll have to wait on that price, I have to much so far as it is going into just the front brakes only. I still need body mounts and tires as those are none existent at the moment

 

[swshawaii]

Would love SS lines but not a priority now. Address your body mounts ASAP. If the cab is moving on the frame it IS a safety issue.

 

[Kjhadfield]

B & c have pretty much crumbled. Say if I go over a large speed bump (at recommend speed) but the truck justs bounces like skit, is that the body mounts? How bad for safety/causes

 

[mrbrett]

Yes, red LocTite is stronger than blue. You're supposed to need heat to remove red, but that's in an ideal world where both surfaces are perfectly clean on install and the product sets correctly.

You probably won't miss the anti seize if you leave it out.

CRC brake grease is silicone based. You're safe with that on rubber seals, etc. I just use the grease in a tube and haven't tried the spray stuff yet, but the stuff in the tube is nice and thick/sticky so it's not that hard to get in the right places and keep away from the places it shouldn't be. Nitrile gloves are a great way to keep your hands completely clean to prevent getting oils and grease where it doesn't belong.

Banjo bolts can be re-used but get new copper washers. Those washers are single use, and only cost a few pennies.

I have purchased stainless lines. Other than replacing failed stock rubber lines, there's no difference in brake feel or power, and if you think there is a difference it's in your head. The stock rubber lines aren't just rubber inside.

Yes, do your bad body mounts. The difference in ride is well worth it.

 

[Kjhadfield]

What's the difference from the pro thane and day stars? Besides the 35$ difference with day stars more.

 

[swshawaii]

B & c have pretty much crumbled. Say if I go over a large speed bump (at recommend speed) but the truck justs bounces like skit, is that the body mounts? How bad for safety/causes

In the unlikely event the cab separated from the frame in a turn.... This job is NOT difficult unless you have heavy corrosion.

More damage is being done the longer you drive. What's happening is the bolts are moving freely in the frame and stressing the sheet metal in the cab. If you check the link below, the bolt pics show the combination of loose mounts combined with corrosion.
I would be inclined to go with the newer and cheaper Prothane 6116 after reading about fitment issues with the rear "D" mounts used in the Daystar KF04015 kit. Just make sure you have a propane torch and a strong impact wrench, minimum 250 foot lbs.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1336503

 

[Kjhadfield]

In the unlikely event the cab separated from the frame in a turn.... This job is NOT difficult unless you have heavy corrosion.

More damage is being done the longer you drive. What's happening is the bolts are moving freely in the frame and stressing the sheet metal in the cab. If you check the link below, the bolt pics show the combination of loose mounts combined with corrosion.
I would be inclined to go with the newer and cheaper Prothane 6116 after reading about fitment issues with the rear "D" mounts used in the Daystar KF04015 kit. Just make sure you have a propane torch and a strong impact wrench, minimum 250 foot lbs.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1336503

I just read the thread (todd) wrote on mysporttrac. I concluded I will get the prothane kit.

Well, I suppose I should expect it not being easy as I do have pretty rust bottom (rockers are pretty bad). We just got a harbor freight in town that I'll be buying from if I can. I know I can get the torch but it would take time for a compressor and impact. I can get the kit but the wrench is what will hold up the install.

 

[swshawaii]

Craftsman electric impact worked great for me. Sears even let me return it since the description says variable speed and it's not.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8-amp-impact-wrench/p-00927990000P#description

 

[Kjhadfield]

Craftsman electric impact worked great for me. Sears even let me return it since the description says variable speed and it's not.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8-amp-impact-wrench/p-00927990000P#description

Wow, I honestly didn't know they came electric in similar power. I have an impact battery drill so I know that wouldn't cut it. Harbor freight has some electric for 50$ but it mass at 230?

Prothane kit for 92 on amazon

 

[swshawaii]

Great deal, even if they're red. The impregnated graphite used in the black poly does not apply to body mounts.
Gotta laugh at Amazon's wrong descriptions. "Jack Grabber", WTH? :scratch: Here to help you if I can, go for it bro.

This "may" work. Heating the bolts would be a must.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html

 

[Kjhadfield]

Great deal, even if they're red. The impregnated graphite used in the black poly does not apply to body mounts.
Gotta laugh at Amazon's wrong descriptions. "Jack Grabber", WTH? :scratch: Here to help you if I can, go for it bro.

you lost me on that one?

Yea they are red and i thought I had the wrong part at 1st with that jack grabber

You think the 50$ impact at HF that max at 230 ft/lbs with a torch would be enough on some assuming rusted bolts.

 

[Kjhadfield]

A handheld propane torch or something else

 

[Kjhadfield]

Sorry, the page isn't refreshing when I come back. I missed that link to HF on the impact, that was the one.

 

[swshawaii]

Yes, just a simple handheld propane torch. I only heated the bottom bolt tips about 20 seconds and they zipped right out.

Energy Suspension, Prothane, and Daystar mix graphite in with certain black polyurethane bushings to prevent squeaking. Commonly used in sway bar frame bushings and control arms that are prone to drying out and making noise. Body mounts
don't apply since nothing moves inside them. I would install clean and add blue thread lock after 500-1000 miles of driving.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/faq.asp#colordifference