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Brian1 91 XLT 4x4

Brian1's 1991 Ford Explorer
Moab Edition

Drivetrain:

4.0 V6
BrianBuilt intake adapter with AEM Dryflow filter and Pre-filter
Dynomax cat back exhaust with
High flow cat
Spectre 3" Aluminum intake
BBK Throttle Body
5 speed manual trans With custom transmission mount
4.10 gears
Front D35 TTB, locked
Rear 8.8 with disc brakes, Powertrax No-slip locker, welded tubes to diff, Riddler Cover
Warn manual hubs
Manual BW1354 Transfer Case (swapped in)

Chassis & Suspension:
Skyjacker 2" coils and add a leafs
1" custom aluminum body lift
Quick disconnect front swaybar
Bilstein 5125s 10" shocks rear
Bilstein 5125s 10" shocks front
F250 Shock Tower Conversion
Custom Extended Radius Arms


Interior:
PRP daily driver seat
Cobra CB
E-track cargo tie down system
Lowrance HDS 5 Baja GPS for offroad explorations
Yaesu FT2800 HAM Radio

Wheels & Tires:
LT265/75R16 Dick Cepek Trail Country EXP tires (currently, Cooper STT and BFG MT in the past)
16" GenII teardrop wheels, formerly had 15" stock Gen II teardrop wheels

Misc:
Warn 9000lb multi mount winch with synthetic rope
Onboard Air using Viair 480c compressor and 2.5 gallon tank
Front diff guard from BrianBuilt
Rear u-bolt skid plates and raised shock mounts from BrianBuilt
Raised axle and t-case breathers
Custom Bolt-on Rock Sliders (version 2.0)
Custom Winch bumper
Custom rear bumper with tire carrier
9" Vision X ADV Cannons LED Lights (Old: 9" import LEDs and 7" HID Lights)
Reverse light
Pro-comp extended brake lines
9007 Headlight conversion
Fuel Pump Access Panel
Replacement Door Weatherstripping
Dual Batteries with auxillary fuse block
ARB Awning
ARB Fridge
Maxtrax Recovery Boards
Trasharoo Spare Tire Trash Bag

Project Super Stock

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Brian1

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1991 XLT
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KG5BAQ
I got the engine to 500 miles and did an oil change. I also cut the filter open and it was clean. This past weekend I added another 500 miles to put over 1000 on the new engine without any issues. This trip was much needed as it was the first multi-day trip out with my Explorer this year. Found some epic camping spots, checked out a train station in the middle of no where and had some hot air balloons launch 100 yards from my camp spot on a river gorge on the last morning.

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Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




410Fortune

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what a great looking trip! The new engine is good after 1000 miles it will likely be good after 300,000 miles in your care
Good to see the old girl out in the dirt again!
 








Brian1

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Nothing much new to report. I had my driver window retinted because it was so scratched up and getting hard to see out of. I also replaced my rusted out Dynomax welded muffler with the Dynomax 17747 Super Turbo. Bought a new connecting pipe, Walker 43470, because it was cheap instead of banging out the one I had on there to fit since it was crushed with a U-bolt clamp. Speaking of u-bolt clamps I hate them so I went to a stainless band clamp, Walker 33231 on the front and back of the muffler. I think it makes for a much cleaner install if you still want your exhaust clamped together and it is serviceable. I'm pretty sure I have had this same muffler on before with my original Dynomax cat-back system, it is a little quieter than the welded muffler I took off that was a straight through design. Lastly, I put in a new O2 sensor since it has been a long time.
 




Brian1

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Today I learned my steering box has a leaking input seal :banghead: I just fixed a leak with a new pressure hose too and now it is all covered in fluid again. I'm no stranger to rebuilding steering boxes but I'm wondering if it is worth getting a new/rebuilt one instead of popping in a $4 seal at this point. It has about 250k miles on it and I haven't really noticed if it is too loose or not (or maybe I'm just used to it). Thoughts or suggestions? I'll do some research but a Redhead isn't out of the question either. I've read Motorcraft is the best rebuilt option to get as they are the only one to magnaflux the sector shaft to check for cracks. I'm not too sure what makes a Redhead better than a Motorcraft box but I'll look into that too as I'm in no rush to get it fixed since it is going to be sitting for a while as I travel..
 








410Fortune

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Go research the red head then you will buy one.
Factory box has a defect, no matter how many times you rebuild them they will develop slop
The red head box is MACHINED to remove the defect and will NOT develop slop
Best upgrade I ever did to my BII
TTB + steering slop = sucks, always holding the wheel left or holding it right, the truck never tracked straight. Since the red head my truck steering is super responsive and I hold the wheel in the center..... for like 18 years I drove my BII lifted with large tires, tried a carquest box = developed slop. Tried a local reman = developed slop. Finally went red head = smile
Motorcraft reman is not going to do what a redhead box does.
Redhead ONLY IMO
 




CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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Go research the red head then you will buy one.
Factory box has a defect, no matter how many times you rebuild them they will develop slop
The red head box is MACHINED to remove the defect and will NOT develop slop
Best upgrade I ever did to my BII
TTB + steering slop = sucks, always holding the wheel left or holding it right, the truck never tracked straight. Since the red head my truck steering is super responsive and I hold the wheel in the center..... for like 18 years I drove my BII lifted with large tires, tried a carquest box = developed slop. Tried a local reman = developed slop. Finally went red head = smile
Motorcraft reman is not going to do what a redhead box does.
Redhead ONLY IMO

Here's a question I don't think I've ever asked; will the old Ford steering box go into these Explorers? The old 70's box was used in almost everything, including all GM's and other makes. Ford used a Ford only box in most Fords, but the 71-73 Mustang had a Saginaw steering box that was a direct swap to any big Fords. That one is also in all NASCAR vehicles.

If by chance those can retrofit, that would be an easy common source for a strong buildable unit. It's identified by having four top plate bolts, instead of two. The Camaros and Trans Ams all had them, and they came in tighter ratios than typical cars. I bought one for my Ranchero in the late 80's, it's a great steering box.
 




Stic-o

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Here's a question I don't think I've ever asked; will the old Ford steering box go into these Explorers? The old 70's box was used in almost everything, including all GM's and other makes. Ford used a Ford only box in most Fords, but the 71-73 Mustang had a Saginaw steering box that was a direct swap to any big Fords. That one is also in all NASCAR vehicles.

If by chance those can retrofit, that would be an easy common source for a strong buildable unit. It's identified by having four top plate bolts, instead of two. The Camaros and Trans Ams all had them, and they came in tighter ratios than typical cars. I bought one for my Ranchero in the late 80's, it's a great steering box.

Ford used the same box in everything truck of that era. I have a f-series box in JP. I have heard some of the ratios are different, but not sure.
 




CDW6212R

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The one I have came from a rebuilder who supplied NASCAR. That was in about 1990, and ran near $250 I recall. Back then finding sources etc, was much tougher than today.

If that old Saginaw box has the same three bolt pattern and can go in the Explorer, I'd try it. Those were tough when they were stock in those common cars, and the sports cars like the Camaro and Trans Am had the quick ratios. The two bolt(top cover plate) version was not a well liked steering box to use back in the 80's. I wonder if the 90's Explorer version is the same, or from the same maker etc.
 




Brian1

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Officially a magazine cover truck! It counts right??? Got a nice surprise when I got my magazine in the mail today and saw the upper corner.

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Collectors edition now :(

For those who haven't heard, the magazine publisher just discontinued 19 print magazines including 4WOR which I have written several articles for. I just turned in my article on my engine rebuild that was scheduled for the next issue and now won't make it into print.

Have a couple new parts to install, more updates as I get them done.
 








yostyexplorer94

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That's a shame as I enjoyed your articles. Canning the magazine wasn't a big surprise to me but it is still upsetting.
 




Brian1

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Took advantage of a sale on a new Red Head Steering Gear box to replace my original box that was leaking. Finally had a nice day to get it installed including cleaning and painting the frame rail. The box is the same as the one for a Bronco and F Series trucks.

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I got everything torqued to spec and marked the bolts and pitman arm nut with a paint pen for a visual reference.

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When I was cycling the steering to bleed the new box I saw this

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On partial droop and close to lock my swaybar and tie rod are making light contact. I've never noticed that before! I moved the clamp bolts down for now. I'm either going to install my Ford Motorsport bar (discontinued part, thicker) that might clear better or cut and extend my current end links 1-1.5".

I haven't driven it much yet but initial impressions are that the steering feels lighter/easier and it is more responsive.
 




Brian1

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I recently made a run to scrap but before I did, I had an idea I'm working on.

Step 1, cut an old upper intake manifold apart.

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Step 2, put it in the mill and cut it flat.

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Eventually I'll get this installed as an intake manifold spacer to hopefully get more torque down low. Only cost will be new studs as I don't think the stock ones are long enough. From the scrap bin to something useful!
 




Brian1

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Callsign
KG5BAQ
Replaced my driver door pull this afternoon. I fixed my broken handle with JB weld long ago but the 2 screw holes that attach it to the door finally blew out. I bought a replacement from Rockauto and spray painted it black to match since black wasn't an option. It fits good but not quite as good as OEM.

I used a Dremel with a round Burr bit to grind out the old one that had it's pins melted down from the factory. The new one came with metal spring clips that I pushed on with a deep socket that fit over the stud. Overall I'm pretty happy with it.

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Stic-o

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I had plan to do this to the Navajo, but elected to just to upgrade to '01 Sport door panels instead. I like the style better, and was able to adapt the second gen switchs easier.
 




CDW6212R

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I still have new 1st gen door pulls somewhere,I forgot if they were black or grey. They were for my 93 Limited panels when I was going to use them in my 99, and changed plans. I need to find that kind of stuff and let them go.
 






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410Fortune

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part of the reason intake spacers are plastic is heat soak, it keeps the UIM cooler so the incoming air charge is cooler = more power
Doesn't anyone make a phenolic spacer for the ohv?

Red head is the way to go!!
 




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