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Bumper bracket / rail end how to

I promised this years ago.

Sorry for the delay.

Skill level: 6.4

Tools needed.
Air Compressor, cut off wheel( whizz wheel) grinder, mig welder, tape measure, level, hammer, gloves, face shield, dust mask, welding mask.
Also needed a good undercoating or paint.

*** NOTE: This write up perticularly pretains to second gens. I am not familiar enough with other gens to say weather or not this write up will be applicable***

Here is the box the bumper ends came in.
Note the part number.
100_1642.jpg
 
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Just so we are on the same page. This how to starts AFTER the bumper and header pannel have been removed. Cooling and condenser can remain.
We will be welding and banging so disconnect the battery, both terminals.

The bracket is welded on four sides.
I am pointing to two of the points but it will be obvious.

100_1646.jpg

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You will need a cut off wheel ( aka whizz wheel ) like this to do the task.

100_1649.jpg


WEAR GLOVES, A DUST MASK AND EYE AND FACE PROTECTION
 
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Cut as thin of a line as possible as close to the joint as possible.

This will make the fit up MUCH easier.

The cuts might take a few tries. Be careful not to cut into the frame rail. Make sure you take your time on this part. Sloppy work here will result in more of a nightmare.

100_1653.jpg


When you are done you should have something like this.
The bracket will need a lot of encouragement to come off. A BFH will come in handy. If you have a morgon knocker or a slide hammer, all the better.

100_1656.jpg


For sake of time lets assume the rails are not in need of repair. If they are this is the tie to do it though.
 
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Make sure you disgunish left from right and top side from bottom side.

The new bracket should tap on fairly easy.

Tap it back to the exisitng weld. You are now in the ball park.

100_1658.jpg


Believe it or not the MAIN key is to have them square and even. Distance is less of an issue.
Your goal will be less than one degree differance. Manipulating with a hammer helps.

I measured from the body mount to the bracket and matched both sides.

100_1665.jpg


Note in the above picture I have griended the finish off to expose some bare metal. Welders dont like dirt and paint and what not. Good clean bare metal makes your welder happy.

When you are confidant they are dead on weld them up.
To help reduce walking and distortion I tack each point and then weld the top on one side, the bottom on the other. The left side and the right on the other. Never wedling more than one section on one side at a time.

When done LET THEM AIR COOL NATURALLY.
You have a mess to clean up any way.

After complete cooling clean and dress your welds with a grinder.
Spray liberally with paint or undercoating.

100_1673.jpg
 






what thickness wheel did you use? 1/32" or 1/16"? which would be mreo recommended?
 












ahhhhhhhhh. I dunno, what ever we keep on the shop shelf.

It is not the thin, thin one but it is not thick either.

Sorry I cant provide a better answer.
 






monmix, what is the measurement to use when you measured the body mount?

what was the measurment left over on the tabs sticking out? not including the weld? from the tip of the tab sticking out to the face of the bracket?


oem, it says to space the brackets 90mm from an oval hole in the frame to the front of the bracket


i am ready to tack them on, and i want a more accurate baselien than what i have
 






I dont remember the exact numbers.
The reason I left the weld metal on the rail was just that. Tap it back to the old edge and make it even.

These bumpers have pretty big sloppy gaps. I would recon even a 1/4 inch differance would be hardly detectable.

Having them equal distances would be the hot ticket.
 






Well done on this thread and the pictures etc. Did you replace that end just for the purpose of making this thread?

My frame bracket was about the same as that and it took me about 20 minutes to fix it. I used basically a baby sledge and a large punch. I'm not counting the cleaning and painting in the repair. I stripped the protective coating and used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on the front half of the frame. It is not perfect, but it is my work truck and the bumper fits. Regards,
 

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No, that was a customres car at the shop.
I just took advantage of the opportunity.

That job looks too damn clean !!!!!!!!!!
 






Cool, and thank you, I spent too much work on this 99. Now the PO is making me retire it and take a POS big white truck. They call it an LLV(longlifevehicle-24years). I call it crap, they are old city vehicles that are too bad to keep. They have no AC, no ABS, one wheel drive, and no rear visibility. POS is accurate for them. I may sell this 99 if I can't transfer to a different route.

BTW, how is the rear hatch doing that you repaired the wiper hole in? Is that epoxy still that good? What was that epoxy called again, and where would I find it? I plan to clean up my 98 hatch soon and install a 2003 Sport hatch, and XP8 wing. Regards,
 






Thanks, I see that as better than to find a welder and the body work. I can do the rough work out to the filler, and I have a friend of friend who can do great body work.
 






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