Buying a used engine

[boater123]

If you do not have the VIN is there a way to know if a used engine is an "E" modle SOHC 4.2? Is a 2001 SOHC 4.0 or 4.2. How can I determine if the engine I'm interested in is an "E" engine. I've been researching some parts I would like to replace if I buy the engine, but a few items are listed as "E" series only. The engine in the vehicle I'm working on has an "E" engine in it.

 

[BigGreenV10]

Sorry I am a fan of just rebuilding the engine in the vehicle as then for a little more you get a new engine you know the history of. Could also do this but I think cost is a little higher.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-jet0tZ9enw6?itemIdentifier=561500_333105_0_

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Can't remember off the top of my head which code is for Flex fuel and which isn't but that's the difference in codes. The Explorer, Ex Sport and Ex Sport Trac from 95-01, 95-03 and 01-05 all have 4.0's no 4.2 that I know of. If you're buying the motor from a junkyard their supposed to have it on record what the motor came from listed along with the VIN for newer vehicles, atleast around me they do.

 

[05dakotatrac]

"E" = Non-FLEX. "K" = FLEX. if you have a machine shop locally that does motors its better to rebuild. its smarter cause you can check your heads for cracks excessive bearing wear, etc. whereas buying junkyard used you cant tell bearing wear, timing chain, head damage, etc.

 

[boater123]

"E" = Non-FLEX. "K" = FLEX. if you have a machine shop locally that does motors its better to rebuild. its smarter cause you can check your heads for cracks excessive bearing wear, etc. whereas buying junkyard used you cant tell bearing wear, timing chain, head damage, etc.

 

[boater123]

Thanks for the info. The question came up when I went to purchase injectors. You are correct the K engine is flex fuel, the E engine is non flex. K and E use different injectors. I matched up the head part numbers, block numbers and injector numbers with my old engine. The yard engine is an E. My engine is toast. Sucked a valve in #4 cylinder, destroyed the head, block has a 2" crack in it, rod bent and tore up crank. Really not worth rebuilding.

 

[05dakotatrac]

yeh that toasted i would get a junkyard motor and do a simple rebuild. at the very least pop the pan and look in also replace the timing chain components as you know eventually they will fail better have a zero mile setup on the timing.

 

[Howardweek]

If you interested in used engines then you have a vast range of online resources where you can look for your engine by its description.
As you don’t have the VIN number there are you still some online tools that offer to find an engine and its parts with car make, model and year available at hiperformer site. Check it out!

 

[BigGreenV10]

Well if you use one from a reputable company then fine I was just saying not a fan of doing all the work to change out engines with one from a local wrecking yard. Never 100% what you are getting and when you would be doing the exchange again.