BW 13-54 Electric to Manual designed in 3D! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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BW 13-54 Electric to Manual designed in 3D!

Fatty explorer

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Joined
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City, State
Everett, wa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer XLT 5.0
I got bored last night so i designed this conversion veiw of what you can do to convert your Horrid electric BW 13-54 and save some money and convert your transfercase to a non Electric manual T-case for the Explorer/ Navajo 1990-1994 years . there are lots of threads and forums on how to do all of this and i thought i would clean up the pictures and give you this 3D view

thanks


transfercase1354.jpg


fb.jpg


io.jpg


hi.jpg


kj.jpg
 



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well the great thing about this mod is that its incredible simple, i need a to find a good thread about gutting out the t-case motor so people can see how you take the shaft out and put it back in
 






ranger X-

the forums that i got a lot of my information from was you haha, i basicly took i think it was mikes explorer with the twist knob and the grease gun hose and made it more reliable and secure, using gears rather than a cable...
 






Thinking About Fabbing An Electric to Manual Borg Warner 1354 Kit...Would You Buy It?

i have started to design an electric to manual bw 1354 (1990-1994 explorer/mazda navajo) conversion kit

would you buy it? I have a full 3D render of what i will begin to build and i hopeto soon have the real deal for all of us to get rid of that incredibly crappy T-case motor and make it manual.

Lets hear some feed back

My test subject will be my 1994 mazda navajo 4.0L, 5 speed, 5.5" superlift + SOA rear
33 x 12.50 x 15's,

sidenavajo.jpg


MY Design is this, the patent is in the procces.

transfercase1354.jpg
 






So by looking at your 3-D the conversion will me a manual selection of 4lo, N, 2hi, 4hi but the selector replaces where the electric motor sits? IF SO IT IS AWESOME!!
 






yes there have been a few members on here that have came up with their quick fixes to this turd of a motor and unreliable push button crap, but i took some time and built it up and will start making this mod.

of course it will take some tinkering around because some of the mods members welded to the shift rod itself, i will design a way to not have to weld, welding will be an option for permanent applications , the brackets to hold the 90degree right angle box which arent pictured in the 3D drawing will come soon, ill have to take some under carriage pictures and make them bolt on or weld on options

the shifting rod that goes through the floor board is fully greaseable from the under cariage
 






For someone to consider buying it you need to set a price.

I mean yeah I am interested, bit don't hold me to that if it is over the price of a new shift motor.

Question. Will the 4x4 and 4 lo indicator lights still work?
 












the price for a new shift motor is $100, and its going to get clogged and its going to fail one day like the rest of them, plus wouldnt you love to have the feeling of being able to know that you yourself just hand shifted the t-case instead of hoping the motor works?
ill have a price soon....sound good?
 






A new shift motor is around 60 bucks from rockauto one of the EF sponsors.
 






ok so $60 its honestly User preference to be honest and for me i hate that stupid button haha
 






i got a buddy of mine whos working on the same type of thing. except its cable operated and has a little stick shift that sticks up. hes in the process now of it being patented.
good luck with your design!
 






ranger X-
the forums that i got a lot of my information from was you haha,
Aww damn, I was hoping there was some other info that I had never seen before!
Oh well, good luck on yours. I'll be watching for progress. :thumbsup:
 






sweet thanks for the support RANGER X
nice rig btw
 






ok guys help me out on what i could design for the 4hi and neutral detents because the only detents are at 2wd and 4low
 






You'll need a spring-loaded ball to drop into a detent on one of the internal gears on your control assembly. That's about the only way I can think of (and is how it's done on manual versions of this case too).

Excellent idea you have here, although won't your shifter be like way behind you?
 






the shifter yes will be behind me but more or less next the the seat depending on what i end up actually using as far as materials and parts go......whatever is most user friendly
 



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