C1095 Pump Motor Circuit Failure | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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C1095 Pump Motor Circuit Failure

SyberTiger

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
767
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City, State
Orlando
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Limited 4x4 4.6L
The traction control and ABS lights came on two months ago and it's time to get that issue resolve. Code C1095 is a pump motor circuit failure. I had used Forscan to run the pump command and I had reset the code. This resolved the issue for a 10 miles before the traction control and ABS lights came on. This is not a wheel hub or speed sensor issue which I'm familiar with as I've changed out the wheel hubs before. I'm pretty well convinced it's the pump motor (Hydraulic Control Unit = HCU) itself.

Thought I'd check to see if any of you with 3rd gen Exploders have dealt with this issue and have any words of wisdom. From what I can tell this may involve buying a used pump motor (HCU) from eBay and swapping it out then bleeding the brakes. If I understand this correctly, the path of least resistance is to simply replace the pump itself but reuse the control module so that you don't have to take it to the dealer to reprogram it. Sound about right?
 



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Hmm, I can't even find this part number: 2L24-2C346-CJ and I note there are 6 hydraulic connections on my HCU whereas all the ones I see on eBay have 5 connections which are probably only for 4x2 vehicles not 4x4 vehicles like mine. I don't know if that 6th hydraulic line is for when you have traction control?

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Screenshot 2023-06-04 111314.JPG
 






Anyone know how that big ol' electrical connector comes off the control module?

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I'm not going to be much help, but you mentioned swapping the control module but it could be the control module that's bad.

AFAIK, you have 6 ports on your pump because you have independent rear wheel ABS, while the prior generation didn't. Not a matter of 4x2 vs 4x4.

Here is what White Bear Lake's lookup shows for an '02 but there must be some difference in having traction control and a build date after 3/4/02:

Compare to what they list for an '03:

You might be able to contact a Ford parts supplier like WBL, give them your VIN, and get the latest valid module part #, though it may still be discontinued leaving you to just grab some '02-'05 module from a junkyard or get yours rebuilt, if it's the problem rather than the controller. You are correct that swapping them avoids programming but (and I could be wrong) I think the programming is mainly about what axle ratio you have, so the speedometer is correct? I'm not 100% sure about this but that seems right?? :) If so then I'd look for a donor '02-05 with the 4.6L.

If your connector looks roughly like the following then you release that ABS connector by pulling up on the latch handle. The clean part is what slides up/out. This pic is not from an Explorer so the viewing angle may be off.

abs module connector lock example only.jpg
 






Looks like the vast majority of those used ABS pumps/controller only have 5 hydraulic ports. I assume Traction Control was an option that most 3rd gen Explorers didn't have. Clearly I need one with 6 port but can't seem to find a single one. There are three parts to the master system and I was counting on replacing the ABS HCU and the ABS Motor but bolting my old ABS Module back on. Maybe have to pay the big bucks to get my rebuilt as you said.

My wiring connector is shown above. It doesn't look like your pic. Still a mystery as to how it unplugs.

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From your ABS connector pic, it looks like part is missing. See #17 on the following page, or nevermind I'll just screenshot it so we have it in the future.

It looks like step one is swing the retainer cover up which clamps around the inner piece, onto tabs on the ABS module. I don't see it in your picture, leaving it able to just be pulled out? It may need wiggled ??


abs-conn.png
 






Okay, just saw a video, Ford Fusion but still that may have that style ABS connector and as above, looks like a cover is rotated up then it is wiggled off.

 






From your ABS connector pic, it looks like part is missing. See #17 on the following page, or nevermind I'll just screenshot it so we have it in the future.

It looks like step one is swing the retainer cover up which clamps around the inner piece, onto tabs on the ABS module. I don't see it in your picture, leaving it able to just be pulled out? It may need wiggled ??


View attachment 442406

Thanks for that and especially the pic. Yes, I had looked at mine earlier and noted that it looks like something had broken off of some kind of latch. Until your pic I didn't realize that the part that broke off was also a "cover". I have no idea how that would have broken off. I've never worked anywhere in that area before. I'm the original owner but do recall taking my vehicle to the stealership a couple of times for warranty work. That is the only time-place I can think it could have been broken although whatever warranty work they did all those years ago should have had nothing to do with ABS. From what I remember I've always seen that bundle of different color wires exposed. I'll have to try to wiggle is straight out.
 






Okay, just saw a video, Ford Fusion but still that may have that style ABS connector and as above, looks like a cover is rotated up then it is wiggled off.



Thanks for posting that video. I do recall watching it a couple month ago but had forgotten about it but this is the video where I came to the conclusion I could simply swap out the pump motor and valve body but keep my control unit. I had forgotten about how he pulled the connector off. I believe I saw another video that show a dude who saves the program configuration of the control unit using Forscan on his old unit then reprogramming that configuration into a unit that came from a junkyard. It looks like the trick will be to try to find a used unit that has the 6 hydraulic connections as all I've seen only have 5.
 






Looks like the 4th gen Explorer's connector is the same or similar per this video. All I know is I can't get that some beotch to come off....LOL.

 












Looks to me like a couple pairs of springy tabs, and that's why it needs wiggled a little to come loose.

Two of these pics I got from this ebay listing:


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connector2.png


module.png

That's my best guess... and that it may be a tight fit too.
 






I called the local Ford dealer to ask them what the correct part number is for the ABS assembly. I was told the 2L24-2C346-CJ number on the sticker is only an engineering number and not the part number. They gave me 2C5Z-2C215-AA as the correct number. Almost nothing comes up on the internet with that number as far as used parts go....LOL! I must own a one-of-a-kind Exploder.
 






That part # looks legit but discontinued. You just have an Explorer with more features than most, to have the stability control (or whatever they called it) ABS on independent rear wheels.


One thing I noticed is some sites list that part # as compatible with '03 through '05, so there may be some other part #s compatible with an '02 but have the first digit as a 3, 4, or 5 instead of 2. I also see it may be found on '03 through '05 Lincoln Aviators:


I wonder if there's a way to just abandon the stability control, get a 2-in, 3-out ABS module and put a tee junction on the two rear wheel lines. I don't know if the connector or its pinout would match up. Heh, extending that though even further, some people opt to just get rid of ABS altogether, but I don't know what that entails on an '02 or what error messages/codes that might generate.

On my '98 if I don't have an operable ABS module in place, I don't even have a working speedometer... can't even do a HUD through the OBD2 port because it's the ABS module itself that converts the differential sensor using axle ratio to come up with a speedo signal. That doesn't mean I couldn't keep the module if it works, and plumb hydraulic lines from master cyclinder straight to wheels instead of through the ABS pump block but I'd go down that road only if/when I need to.
 






They must have used 2-part epoxy to hold that connector in place...LOL. Sheesh, I was gonna do my due diligence and do basic voltage testing. I may have to remove the battery and battery platform to get better leverage on it. Nothing comes easy.
 












Yeah I don't know, unless you come up with something then I think you might have to resort to contacting a few of the ABS module rebuilders to see what they can do.
 






I found it! I went with this one. I wasn't wanting to pay that much but if I had it rebuilt it would have been that much or more. I found a used one on ebay for $100 but it came from a vehicle with 152K miles on it so you have to wonder how much life is left on it. I'm guessing that some people have been fixing these with less than that kind of mileage on them. The funny thing is both of the ones I found on ebay were not easy to find and I kind of stumbled upon them. You'd think just putting in the part number would have located them quickly...not! LOL!

 






Being hard to find is probably why they haven't sold out yet. Took a bit of work but I think you got lucky to find that.
 



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I had ordered that ABS assembly and installed it this past weekend. Easy-peasy installation with the exception of the connector again...LOL! I had watched a couple of videos on how to change it out and honestly it was easier than how others did it but probably because of the way that they had removed the unit. It would appear that most people's intuition is just to remove the controller/valves/pump from the ABS bracket but I found removing the entire bracket with all that junk on it rather easy. In part the reason I did it my way is my new unit came with the bracket and hydraulic lines connected.

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First remove the battery and the battery box as that will give you clear access to the ABS controller system. The bracket is held on by three flange nuts that are easily accessible from under the vehicle in front of the tire but behind the bumper. Just disconnect the two lines on the hydraulic valve box that go to/from the brake fluid reservoir then the four color coded hydraulic connections on the bracket then finally the three flange nuts.

And, I should note there are a few electrical cables secured in place on the battery box with those plastic rivet/retainers that might be in the way that you can use a screw driver to help pop them out just to move stuff out of the way.

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I had a problem with disconnecting the electrical connector so by doing the steps about it allowed me to pull the unit up then rotate it so I had easier view/access to the connector. I wiggled and pulled and wiggled and pulled and nothing, nada, zip, zilch happened. As you can see from above my prior explanation about the cover-hood that goes over all the colored wires on mine was mysteriously broken off. After a closer look I realized that if I had the cover-hood that when you swing the cover-hood up it actually is part of a release mechanism. Without it the mechanism would not release the connect. Basically, there are two locking arms on either side of the connector which you can see below. I manually grabbed each arm and pulled them up to unlock the connector and then it easily disconnected.

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Using this method it was very easy to reverse the process and put the new complete unit in.
 






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