C4 shift linkage question.

[rookieshooter]

I'm not really happy with my cable shift linkage for my C4. Even in the instructions it states that they're a little tricky to get to shift right.
Let alone have the cable fall on the exhaust pipe ha ha. Note the area that I had to cut away that got melted.
Has anyone tried a shifter that has all steel shift linkage no cable?
I was thinking of trying LoKars floor shifter.

 

[PopRichie77]

This isn't exactly the same but I have a 84 Bronco II, 4X4 that I put a FI 302 and AOD in around 1990. I used the original floor shifter and modified the linkage. The AOD had the same number of positions as the original C5, so it worked out fine, just about 200K miles later and has never been adjusted from time installed, very reliable. This was a daily driver with only some off road. Can't remember how many positions the C6 has but it's something to think about. Personally I would look into a floor shift of some kind.
The cable should work but you need some brackets to keep it from moving around, if the cable can't move much the shifts will be more positive.

 

[Happy Jack]

The stock early 80's shifter would need some fab work. It has a bell crank that mounts between the frame and trans. On the c-5 there is a c shaped bracket that attaches around the starter to hold the inboard end of the bell crank. On the A4LD the end of the bell crank goes into a hole cast in the tranny case. The early linkage is very hard to find as the short rod from the bell crank to shift the trans is most always cut to remove the trans. Very hard to find, at least is was for me. And then no telling if the spacing for the shifter gates would match your tranny or not. Picture shows the A4LD linkage on the left and C-5 linkage on the right.

I had trouble with my cable shifter on my 84 v-8 c-5. Instructions said to run the cable on the passangers side and I burned the cable up with exhaust heat on Mt. Antero trail. Drove down to Salida and bought a new cable and installed it on the drivers side away from the exhaust and never had another problem.

 

[PopRichie77]

Your right Jack, I had to shorten the bell crank, because of the larger bell housing. also had to move the mount location on the frame to match the bell housing location, and cut off and repositioned one of the levers, may have shorten or lengthened it also to match the trans throw. Rods were modified also. Been to long ago, but your pics bring back memories.
It does require fab work, welder needed.

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks for all this feed back. It's been so many years since I took out the original 84 tranny.

Might just get another cable and make sure it does not come close to exhaust.
I know that the cable is very hard to move in the sheath, even if disconnected at both ends.

 

[Happy Jack]

If your exhaust is on your passangers side just reverse your cable loop to the drivers side. Worked for me. And most auto parts store have the cable the after market shifters use.

 

[rookieshooter]

Great, I'll start calling tomorrow for the cable and re-route it.

 

[rookieshooter]

Found this when I removed the Hurst shifter cover. Hard to see, but if you look closely, you can see a slight bend to the left of the cotter pin in the cable. I assume this happened after the cable came in contact with the exhaust pipe melting the cover off and letting in all the salty water from road salt being applied to the roads in the last few weeks. The cable just got all bound up at that point and progressively got harder to shift.
But went to parts store, in this case a 4x4 shop and ordered a new B&M shift cable. Even though it's a Hurst, the B&M will work but it's more beefy then Hurst.