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Cabin Air Filter Replacement

I would pay someone to do it for me instead of not putting the dang pins back in. ???????
 



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I would pay someone to do it for me instead of not putting the dang pins back in. ???????
I'm sure the dealer would take you up on that.:) With the limited mileage I put on my vehicles, I can't recall if I've ever had that filter changed.

Peter
 






I’ve actually changed mine before and it was a pain putting the pins back in but there was no way I was leaving the pins out.
 






I just replaced my cabin air filter and getting the hinge pins out was a real pain. The only thing worse was trying to get them back in. Any issues with leaving the hinge pins out?

I changed my air filter about 7-8 months ago and I did not put the pins back in.
 






When I changed mine I just used a flat screwdriver to push the pins back in. I didn't turn the tabs back down or up to lock them back in.

My problem came when I got to the air filter box. I managed to break both tabs off trying to get it open. Good thing those lids are cheap.
 






The first time I changed my cabin air filter I had to use a flat head screwdriver to get them out, I did break one of the pins so I ordered a new one from the dealer (under $5.00) when it was time to install the new pin I used a little white lithium grease and it slide in with no problem.
 






The first time I changed my cabin air filter I had to use a flat head screwdriver to get them out, I did break one of the pins so I ordered a new one from the dealer (under $5.00) when it was time to install the new pin I used a little white lithium grease and it slide in with no problem.

I’ll have to remember that the next time
 






I have a dilemma. Recently purchased a 2018 Explorer Sport. Along with Fellow member Gregg9933.

First of all Shame on Ford for two reasons. 1. making such a long inspection recommendation for the Cabin Air Filter when in previous models and even this one mine was not totally trashed at 7200 ish. Greg's is even worse and even lesser mileage. Yes I am aware that geographical climates differ between North Texas and Pacific Northwest but still his should last longer than 5K.

Quality control statement first and example the Motor Craft OEM filters are Made in the USA and last less than 8K but my FRAM Fresh Breeze "Made in China" in my previous Taurus SHO lasted over 10K. Amazon price difference between the FRAM and Motor Craft was less than $1.00 so no brainer for me. I usually order the filters as a filler product when I can't figure out what to get to make my order $35 or greater for FREE Prime Shipping. In this case I had a leftover Fresh Breeze CF 11176 from my Taurus yes same filter.

Here is the problem. Greg and I both purchased the Sports about a week or two apart last summer during the 0% summer event...Yes I know it Rhymes.

He is on his Third filter (OEM, replacement #1 and replacement #2) in just about 10K miles. I am on my second in 7,200 (ish) miles. I personally swear by the Fresh Breeze based on previous vehicle and have no reason to expect lesser performance or durability on the Explorer Sport. I replaced mine today with a Cheap AutoZone (STP 1885P) just as a planned replacement at 10K with the Fresh Breeze and then every 10K after that or at least inspection at every 10K after that.

There are two different direction arrows. My OEM Filter has the air flow arrow pointing UP from the bottom of the filter housing. The STP has the same arrow direction (Although make a note the STP and Even FRAM have the direction arrow on the SIDE...Yes the NON VISIBLE SIDE so make a note before installation. I used a contrasting color Sharpie and made the arrow on the front facing side along with date and mileage.

We both have the OEM Filters same stamping same part number same layout but my OEM Shows the air flow bottom to top. Greg's shows Air Flow Top to bottom. The blower motor and resistor are upstream of the filter (Above) so which one is right? I checked my FRAM and the direction arrow is DOWN.

As I am typing this I might have stumbled onto my own answer.

Fact one even though we purchased with a couple of weeks apart, his had a 3/2018 build date mine was 5/2018.

The Fresh Breeze I am using as a reference was a leftover from the Taurus and with that layout even though the same filter it could be a different airflow direction. Also possible they could have changed a design and airflow direction between the Mar/2018 and May 2018 build date.

I did order a new Fresh Breeze to replace the one I am getting ready to use so I will see what the airflow direction arrow indicates on the new one.

Has anyone inspected or changed the CAF for vehicles with a Build date between March and May of 2018?

If so what was the airflow direction if you remember?

I am tending to think Airflow is bottom to top based on the higher media filtering bed on the Upstream side.
 






Exactly what do you mean by "not totally trashed"? How has the inspection period changed over previous model years?

Peter
 






The Book inspection period has not changed. The personal inspection criteria for at least myself and Greg have changed tremendously.

The Not totally trashed was meant to be more wear than I would expect for only 7,200 miles but not as bad as I saw the other example and his only had 5,000 miles.

Anybody have any idea of whether the airflow should be top to bottom or bottom to top? I might have to visit dealer and get a few examples to get somewhat of a baseline.
 






I have 80k miles on my 2016 Sport ... maybe I should check my cabin filter?
 






Air flow is bottom to top.
I've replaced mine 2x in 80k miles. Both times it was relatively clean.
I think environment has more of an impact than the design.
 






80K You might have a bird family setting up a condominium community. I Would strongly recommend the FRAM Fresh Breeze CF 11176 and at minimum inspect every 5-10K miles. If you put it off this long what's another couple of days waiting for Fresh Breeze? I usually get next or two day shipping Free with Amazon Prime and trust me with Amazon you can usually find SOMETHING to order that will put the order over $35 for the free shipping criteria.
 












In MI, I can generally get several years out of cabin air filters depending on the vehicle and filter - I run HVAC on fresh air 99% of the time - no recirc for me. I typically check annually and clean or replace as necessary. I buy mine from rockauto or elsewhere online and typically pay <$5 per for dust and <$10 per for dust/odor/charcoal, so it's a no brainer to replace them every year or two. The last car I saw that hadn't had it changed in 70K miles was pretty nasty and caused the car to have a pretty nasty funk/odor. Everything was awesome after it was replaced.

If you are having to change cabin air filters every 5k miles or less, something seems wrong. Maybe you should have your lungs checked also as that air must be horrendous.
 






With all due respect............if you have not physically inspected your filter, you might want to do so. My prior experience with my SHO - which had a 30k CAF interval, was that 30k was beyond nasty. I'm hyper aggressive with checking the CAF because my wife is a terminal cancer survivor and has a depressed immune system from the chemotherapy, so we work hard to keep air clean for her. My 18 Sport, at 5K, showed significant discoloration of the media material. First replacement was a Autozone STP, again significant discoloration at another 5k, total car mileage just over 10K. I am hard pressed to think our air is that much dirtier than maybe in the desert, but be that as it may, I am switching to K&N washable filter, that way I can just service the unit, dry it, recharge it, and move on.

Greg9933
 






I was sold on FRAM Fresh Breeze with a fairly liberal coating of Febreeze scent during installation. My OEM wasn't much cleaner and only 7200 miles. I am joining the K&N club but will keep the cheap STP until 10K. After that I plan on at least inspecting every 5K. Since it has to be out for cleaning anyway and the K&N is removable and washable might as well make a 5K inspection/wash criteria. Yes I agree it is not the most accessible filter to inspect which is more reason that if you are pulling it out for inspection the cheap paper thin OEM filters should be replaced way more often than the Owners manual recommends. The Febreeze is optional but in my case it provided a nice tropical breeze scent for a few days after installation.
 






With all due respect............if you have not physically inspected your filter, you might want to do so. My prior experience with my SHO - which had a 30k CAF interval, was that 30k was beyond nasty. I'm hyper aggressive with checking the CAF because my wife is a terminal cancer survivor and has a depressed immune system from the chemotherapy, so we work hard to keep air clean for her. My 18 Sport, at 5K, showed significant discoloration of the media material. First replacement was a Autozone STP, again significant discoloration at another 5k, total car mileage just over 10K. I am hard pressed to think our air is that much dirtier than maybe in the desert, but be that as it may, I am switching to K&N washable filter, that way I can just service the unit, dry it, recharge it, and move on.

Greg9933

You didn't specify how discolored it is, but just because it's discolored, doesn't mean it's very dirty. Again, not sure how discolored you mean.

A dirty filter is an efficient filter. As the filter loads with debris, it'll trap even more debris. The downsides is that you lose air flow and also if you have something nasty growing on the filter, that could be disbursed into vehicle.

If K&N cabin filters are anything like their engine air filters, they work well to keep out "birds and small children," but not much more. However, if you truly have to replace your filters every 5k miles, then the K&N might be financially wise.
 






I see this thread is taking on the attributes of the one on when to change your oil.:D

Peter
 



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With all due respect............if you have not physically inspected your filter, you might want to do so. My prior experience with my SHO - which had a 30k CAF interval, was that 30k was beyond nasty. I'm hyper aggressive with checking the CAF because my wife is a terminal cancer survivor and has a depressed immune system from the chemotherapy, so we work hard to keep air clean for her. My 18 Sport, at 5K, showed significant discoloration of the media material. First replacement was a Autozone STP, again significant discoloration at another 5k, total car mileage just over 10K. I am hard pressed to think our air is that much dirtier than maybe in the desert, but be that as it may, I am switching to K&N washable filter, that way I can just service the unit, dry it, recharge it, and move on.

Greg9933
Pictures would be helpful to determine what you consider "significant discoloration" vs others.

The below is what just came out of my 17 with 15K miles on it that sits outside year round - never garaged - and is parked under numerous large trees. It's the original filter dated 10/2016. It is what I would consider pretty normal/typical discoloration and if I didn't get a bunch of replacement filters for $3-5 per, I would probably just vacuum out the larger debris and put it back in for another 15K as it had no foul odor. If you just have to have little to no discoloration and want to change them frequently, I suggest ordering a case or two from rockauto. TYC particulate replacements are $3.23 per and ATP particulate/odor replacements are $6.98 per. Just note that the particulate odor filters are a dark grey, due to the carbon, and it is harder to see discoloration. I've used the TYC filters on various vehicles for years without issue and that is what I just put in.



I see this thread is taking on the attributes of the one on when to change your oil.:D

Peter
Same as with tires, backup bulbs, and everything else too...
 






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