Ok... Let's start at the beginning.
You have a first gen Explorer -- right? If so, there are two "pins" that hold the calipers in place. Roughly diamond shape, they are steel with a rubber insert that gives them some springiness and holds them into place.
They drive in and out with either a special tool designed for the job, or if you are careful, with a large screwdriver.
If you look carefully at each end of those pins, you will note that there is a slight raised bump that holds against the cast iron of the brake caliper. This is to stop the pins from walking in and out on their own while braking. In order to remove them you must first get those little raised edges inside the bore. Typically, if using a screwdriver to drive the pins out, you would place the edge of the screwdriver perpendicular to the edge of the brake caliper pin at around a 30 degree angle or so, then gently tap with a hammer or mallet to begin driving the pin through its bore to the other side. Do the same on the other side.
Once the pin is starting out through the bore, just stick the screwdriver across both sides of the METAL part of the pin (not in the center into the rubber part!) you can easily drive the pin right out the back. I've never seen them stick so badly that they cannot be driven out with relative ease, and I've done around 200 Ford brake jobs in the past 20 years or so (the pins are common on almost all Ford truck products).
After removing both pins, the caliper itself will slide out of the caliper bracket, but note that it must slide out straight! If you get it ****ed sideways a bit, it will fight all the way. Generally, they tap right out with a soft-faced mallet.
Now, wire brush all the rust off of everything in preparation for re-assembly. You will want to use some white lithium grease on the sliding parts of the caliper assembly before re-assembly. That means on the places where the caliper slides on the bracket and where the pins slide through their bores. (Note that the pins are not exactly the same -- there is a top and bottom. The bores match this difference in size -- make sure that you line them up correctly before driving them back in.)
You can drive the pins back in from the front. Simply tap them with a small hammer until they hit those little stops.
Now...
From all of the work I've done on Ford brake systems, I would suggest that the caliper PINS are rarely the problem with sticky front brakes. Generally, that is the caliper itself, sticking in the bore. The easiest cure for that is to replace the entire caliper. Especially if you do not have specialty tools to rebuild calipers! Sometimes, however, the reason that the calipers are sticking is simply because the brake pads have worn so much that they are sticking way out in their bores. If that is the case, new pads will cure the sticking because the calipers are driven back into their bores before installing the new brake pads.
You can easily drive the calipers back into their bores in one of two ways. The first involves a tool for the job -- it sort of looks like a brake pad with a screw and a handle through the middle. They sell for under $10 at auto parts stores. Just remove the pads, stick the tool into the caliper bore (or sometimes against an old pad, using the pad to push against the caliper itself so that the tool doesn't have to go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the center of the caliper) crank in the tool and SLOWLY compress the caliper.
The other way uses either a large set of channel locks or a C-clamp -- do the same thing as above. (Note that you will be forcing brake fluid back into the master cylinder when you do this operation, so don't rush it. Just take it at a hand turn speed and compress the caliper all the way into its bore. You may have some excess brake fluid come out the top of the master cylinder -- that is normal if it is full to the top before you start the process. Just use some brake clean spray to clean up the mess so it doesn't start corroding the metal where it leaked.)
After you compress the calipers, install the new pads, clean everything with brake cleaner spray (grease causes hot spots, which in turn warp rotors) and re-assemble the calipers to the brackets. If you did everything as above, without removing any brake lines or opening any bleeder screws, you will not even have to bleed the system.
Let me know if this helps.
