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Cam position sensor

Watchman

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1993 Explorer Sport-4WD
Well, cam position sensor has been replaced. The shop foreman told me he placed it at 26 deg BTDC. The engine runs smoothly. No CEL. However, the Haynes manual says 26 deg ATDC. I've driven the truck over 50 miles now and no problem.

Is this going to be a problem ? Please advise.
 


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FR-425

Used to be a road here.
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If it were at 26* BTDC it would run very badly, if at all. He's mistaken.

He got his lefty mixed up with his righty.

At 26* BTDC the injectors would fire during the compression stroke while both valves are closed. You would still get some gas in the cylinder the next revolution but the mixture would be wayyy lean and it would be hard to start. A lot of raw fuel would be ejected into the exhaust; lots of back firing out the tail pipe, etc.

You would certainly get a cell out of this!
 




Rhett

Let Them Eat Cake
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However if the sensor has not failed electrically but is "chirping" it is the drive unit that is worn. It will run at least 40,000 miles like this. Ask me how I know.

It will run 80,000 miles like this, chirping away in cold weather. Ask /me/ how I know :D

You can see the original 2005 thread here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146928&highlight=bird+chirp

...and all that can be chased to find the culprit. Do not do what I did guys.

The chirping part is called the camshaft synchronizer. May it be cursed forever.

It is the source of many a wasted $$$ chasing down non-existent belt and pulley chirp on these trucks.
 




FR-425

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No kidding huh,

It does sound EXACTLY like belt noise!
 




smegun

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ordered just the sensor from advanced ended up being wrong part... these units have been changed over the years there is currently a verticle connector in the truck so i assume it is more like the 95 windowed unit I have a 94 XLT cant seem to find that sensor by itself anyone have a link or pic of the part of whats under the two torx screws on the syncronizer or the cardon model


id rather have an original rebuilt unit any other ideas would be good too ..... how are performance chips some people pull out the fuel resistor ? ?

ive replaced most of the sensors in the truck and briefly the truck runs correctly my fear is that it is being retarded or I have a more seriouse oil slip problem as it seems to get retarded and there is more vibration from the running engine than i remember with fords
and slow 0-60 and passing hoping it is just timing time for a pro I get a 111 but the run time test i havnt been able to do it is tougher to do without real scope
 




pteepee69

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I've always had a miss in mine. My story is when I replaced the heads a couple of years ago. Climbing around on top the motor putting it all back together I was looking for a place to put my hand. Found a place and then I felt something snap. Got to looking and I my 220 lbs had managed to snap the electrical connection of the cam sensor. I have always wanted to replace this part because of that but it has always been a hard part to find.
 




pteepee69

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yes. I saw the link and I appreciate it. When I had looked for them before I had a hard time finding them. I was not aware that a newer one would work. Mine has the angled electrical connection and I wasn't sure if the straight connection would work. So is the way of keeping up with this site. I might not know but someone else might. That is why we are members of this community.
 




Watchman

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Just a final thought ... Thanks Rhett for the link posted above. I could not find anything in the belt area that was causing this chirp. It was that thread that finally pointed to the problem. I had the exact same conditions... garage kept.. only happened during cold weather... and after 10 minutes the chirping started... then it would stop. It is so good to be rid of that annoying sound. Also, the auto parts stores still carry these CPS, but they run around $200. Online is cheaper.
 




mgmgmg

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:thumbsup:Found this, I might try....



 




Watchman

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Just keep in mind that on the 4.0 the CMP sensor/oil drive is in the rear of the engine, very backside and is NOT easy to access without removing the upper intake. And I would read this thread first before you try just lubing the unit. The 1st gen ex's have an issue with these CMP units wearing out. It is not just a sensor. The "oil drive" is attached to it and must be lined up properly with the timing. I bought a Dorman and though there's a lot of folks who haven't had good results - mine is still running good. Check Rock Auto.

Here is the thread:http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146928&highlight=bird+chirp&page=4
 




DJ94

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If it is bad will it make the check engine light come on, but only sometimes?
 




Rhett

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If it is bad will it make the check engine light come on, but only sometimes?

Mine did not. No check engine light or codes ever. All it did was chirp in cold weather.

If you're getting a cel I'd pull the code to see what it is.
 




DJ94

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mgmgmg

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So just wanted to add info about this thread:

I had the same "CHIRPING" problem thought it was Cam Position Senor after reading thread, didnt really want to replace. So last fall replaced my whole belt tensioner, still the factory one...... I never noticed until now the chirping was gone? So I wonder "IF" just changing the belt tensioner first before Cam Position Senor, if you never changed out will solve the issue...... It solved my chirping issue!!
 




smegun

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I suppose you could do it with the hood on, but it would be much more gymnastic.
good slat of osb or ply across the engine bay have to remove the air /throttle body
 




smegun

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trying to establish what the window looks like at TDC heres mine when going to 26 deg ATDC
the lobe is further clockwise the red is just starting with the arrow ...is this correct ??

...also im told i could still be 180 out ad i need to turn the crank a revolution to get the compression stroke but does the window look right or do i need to rotate the crank and anyone who could post their pics of the CMP window correct at tdc would be great

camface.jpg


53930196_2287926797925231_1345869044909080576_n.jpg
 




massacre

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If you think you could be out of phase, it’s easy enough to double check that.

I found this pic on the net, may be of some help

upload_2019-3-29_12-5-2.gif
 




smegun

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you have to be past TDC to install it (26 deg atdc ) most of these the arch of the vane is pointing 15 deg anti clockwise twards firewall but noticing this model looks different because the shape and connection block look opposite in that the connector is pointing that way instead but likely im not supposed to see a vane at all after tdc
 




smegun

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window anyone take a pic of the window at TDC your phone back there and take a pic … if I knew which mark to line it up at then the window makes sense ...currently im investigating that my cmd is on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke
 


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massacre

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window anyone take a pic of the window at TDC your phone back there and take a pic … if I knew which mark to line it up at then the window makes sense ...currently im investigating that my cmd is on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke

If you remove #1 spark plug you should be able to find out if it’s out of phase or not by turning the engine over with thumb over spark plug hole.
Sucks in = intake
blows out = exhaust
 




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