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Cam Synchro

massacre

Elite Explorer
Joined
January 24, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Massachusetts
Year, Model & Trim Level
‘94 Explorer
‘19 Nautilus
Hello,

My new synchro came today so I want to install it. I just have a couple questions about this.

It seems that it is like a distributor, in that you have to stab it in to catch the oil pump drive, but since it’s a helical cut gear the body will rotate some. I haven’t even taken the cover off yet to see what position the little rotating tab is in.

My plan is to remove the cover, and then rotate the crank until the little tab is centered in the window.
Then mark the body of the synchro to block, and position of tab to body as well.
Then I will try to put the new one in the same position so that everything lines up.

I see there are tools to keep the tab from rotating. Are these tools absolutely necessary?

I heard there is a way to check this with a meter?

Thanks for any help
 



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94 cam synchro install:
Bring Cyl #1 to TDC compression stroke.
remove 13mm hold down bolt, pull out old cam synchro
Compare to new one (they must match) there are several different ones for the OHV 4.0L
Soak new one in synthetic motor oil
Install alignment tool that came with your new synchronizer
Drop in synchro
Make sure it points correct direction
install hold down and bolt
You are done!

Easier on OHV with upper intake off, but can be done on the back of the engine its just a PITA

Here is where it should point
171_091051_370000000.jpg


Yes it is just like a distributor (on the old 2.9L it was a dist)
It can only rotate like 10-15 degrees per tooth, so when you press it down into place if it does not match this picture, pull up and move over one tooth until it does


Yes there are shortcuts, sometimes you can mark the location of the flag and install your new one in the correct spot to match, I prefer to do it by the book and bring #1 to TDC then install
 






My new one did not come with a tool

I can get the tool at advanced
Think i’m going to get it
 






I picked up the tool, have to see which kind the old one is. Hopefully they are of the same type.

I’m going to get back into this in an hour or so
 






Well the tool set I borrowed from auto zone did not fit my cam synchronizer
Said on website does 90% of ford vehicles
Said on box only ‘96 and newer

Does anyone know the correct tool?

Thanks
 






sob that sucks
I have run into this before
94 is an odd year for this
Does your sensor wiring pins point upwards?

The tool set you borrowed from autozone did it come with a few different alignment tools or just one?
 






Both the original and the new connector point upwards. I took the cover off of them both and they are of the same type. There is a window in both of them as well but can’t really see through window on old one.

Tools came in kit with 4pcs not a single one would fit.
Duralast #84-8400T

One black one yellow one grey one blue
 






Rock auto says requires
Kit 84-8400T

You may need to rotate the cam gear to get the tool to fit
Should be the grey one??? I believe I have the same kit downstairs
Know this your 94 is an odd year, 94 only explorer
If I can find the correct picture you can align this without the tool
As I said it can only rotate like 12-15 degrees at a time (tooth to tooth) so its hard to screw up
 






Check this out :)
94 has the glass window so you don't need a tool

haynes_1995_b4000_camsensor0001.jpg


haynes_1995_b4000_camsensor0002.jpg


haynes_1995_b4000_camsensor0003.jpg
 






Thank you
I would have to disconnect my fuel pump to turn the key on since the engine is torn down to short block and oil pan

Could I just pull the relay?

Thanks
 






sure pull the relay or fuel pump fuse or disco the inertia switch, all of those things will disable the fuel pump
Why do you need to turn key? Some of the mumbo jumbo in that Haynes manual you can gloss over.... as long as the engine is at tdc cyl 1 compression and you drop the sensor in with the flag on the correct tooth (mark in the glass window) and the housing is pointed at the 60 degree location your golden
I turn the engine over with a socket on crank damper to get TDC
 






10-4 thanks
 






Right now the old sensor is in the correct position, so I am going to attempt the swap.

My hesitation is that the synchro is in such a crappy location which is why I am changing it out in the first place. I don’t want to have to get back in there if I do it wrong
 






Wait are you supposed to remove the connector from the housing for the alignment tool to fit? I have been trying to get it to fit without removing the plastic connector, it seems like it will break and I don’t want to force it

Thanks
 






Removed connector, the tools still won’t fit. The tools are too narrow to fit over the body of the drive unit. I can force it on there to get it down on the body but even then the vane is not in the exact position it should be

I’m flummoxed maybe i’ll call rock auto and see what they have to say about it
I wanted to get this done before I install heads and lower intake but maybe i’ll have to do it later
 






Ended up just saying F it
Stabbed it 5 or so times, finally got it lined up the best I could. The crank never moved, the body is the same and the vane is the same, or as close as I could get it.

Going to have to call it good enough if it doesn’t run i’ll just take the upper intake off and use the meter test to time it
 






sure pull the relay or fuel pump fuse or disco the inertia switch, all of those things will disable the fuel pump
Why do you need to turn key? Some of the mumbo jumbo in that Haynes manual you can gloss over.... as long as the engine is at tdc cyl 1 compression and you drop the sensor in with the flag on the correct tooth (mark in the glass window) and the housing is pointed at the 60 degree location your golden
I turn the engine over with a socket on crank damper to get TDC

Well the old housing was positioned with the connector pointing straight back, I put the new one in the same place.
I don’t know about the 60 degree thing, was it installed wrong originally?

Reason I asked about the key was that the procedure for using a meter to set ignition timing says to put the key in the on position. When I do that the fuel pump will prime and put fuel everywhere so I want to disable the fuel pump for the procedure.
 






I cannot get this thing set up.

Motor is 34mm ATDC as measured on the balancer
rotor vane lined up with line on window.
Negative lead on neg batt terminal positive lead on middle pin on connector. Key on with fuel pump relay pulled.

Does the connector have to be hooked up and backprobed?

Please help, I can’t put the rest of this engine together until I get this done

Thanks
 






I think I get it now
Going to try a couple things.

It has to be installed at TDC but tested at 34mm ATDC

I think that is what is messing me up
 



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I have never tested one, just drop them in at TDC and make sure the stator and sensor are lined up according to chart....I never had a timing issue or code doing it this way


1994 is a crappy year for the CPS!! 93 did not have one and in 95 they changed, 96 they changed again.........

Good luck!
 






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