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Cam tool sale for SOHC 4.0

stevesmustang

Member
Joined
June 21, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Jerome, Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?...se&utm_term=OTC6488&utm_campaign=shopzilla_r1
Here is a link to the cam tool all you need to do the job. Fords say they dont sell it, i seen it as much as 700$, found a local Auto value that can get it and say list 399$ but will sell to me for 317.95 with tax but i found it online cheaper. Hope if any of you guys need the tool this helps. Steve
171bucks with free shipping on this site, till sunday then goes to 302$ Free shipping anything over 99$ also
 



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Steve, did you receive my email, I have had three messages saying it still had not gone through?

Hello Steve, you do have to pull the engine to get to the rear cassette. The recalls only applied to two items in the front, and they ended at 5 years or 75,000 miles. Good luck with that, the valvetrain parts aren't expensive compared to the labor and dealing with re-timing the cams.

Always start any work on it by placing the parts at TDC. You have to know where TDC is for the camshafts on the heads before bolting them to the engine. Both the engine has to be at TDC and each head with the cam at TDC before bolting them down. The chains go on after the heads are on. Then you keep it all at TDC and time the cams. Regards,
Don
 












I will check my email again and see if it got yours

Ya i seen the manual said have number 1 on top dead center, and it says go ahead and bolt the heads on, but leave the cam sprockets loose till i put the cam positioning tool and holding tool on, and also crank holding tool, but if the kit i bought dont have it, i will just use a rachet to hold crank. Also yes have to pull motor out to change pass side cassettes, i will post pics and soon as i am done, i am gonna bolt heads on and set the cams before i put it back in since i can see the pass side cam and get to it easier out of the truck. Thanks for all your help from everyone i will keep you posted and post pics. Thanks Steve






Steve, did you receive my email, I have had three messages saying it still had not gone through?

Hello Steve, you do have to pull the engine to get to the rear cassette. The recalls only applied to two items in the front, and they ended at 5 years or 75,000 miles. Good luck with that, the valvetrain parts aren't expensive compared to the labor and dealing with re-timing the cams.

Always start any work on it by placing the parts at TDC. You have to know where TDC is for the camshafts on the heads before bolting them to the engine. Both the engine has to be at TDC and each head with the cam at TDC before bolting them down. The chains go on after the heads are on. Then you keep it all at TDC and time the cams. Regards,
Don
 






i didnt get your email

I didnt recieve your email. stevesmustang@comcast.net
Also i will sell the kit i bought right after i use it for cheaper then what i paid for it and depending on shipping costs i may ship free.



Steve, did you receive my email, I have had three messages saying it still had not gone through?

Hello Steve, you do have to pull the engine to get to the rear cassette. The recalls only applied to two items in the front, and they ended at 5 years or 75,000 miles. Good luck with that, the valvetrain parts aren't expensive compared to the labor and dealing with re-timing the cams.

Always start any work on it by placing the parts at TDC. You have to know where TDC is for the camshafts on the heads before bolting them to the engine. Both the engine has to be at TDC and each head with the cam at TDC before bolting them down. The chains go on after the heads are on. Then you keep it all at TDC and time the cams. Regards,
Don
 






I got another message saying it's been 49 hours since I sent the email. The address matches what you have above.

Set the cams close to TDC in the heads before bolting them down, and have the engine at TDC then also. You can't spin the cams around after they are on the engine to get them to TDC, the valves would hit pistons. That was my point, all three have to be very near to TDC when they go together.

The TDC tools make it very easy to locate TDC for each cam. I take it you will have each head complete from a shop. You need to rotate each cam until the one tool lines up with the two slots on the cam.

One end of each cam has a bolt and the chain sprocket, call that the front end of the cam. The back end has nothing except two slots cut into it. Those are the timing slots, the one special tool lines up with those slots. You don't have to place the tool in it's holder and bolt it down to the head(valve cover holes).

The slots need to be parallel with the edge of the valve cover rail(draw a line through them), and nearer to the head(I'm trying to remember), instead of farther away from the head. I should have a picture somewhere.

Place each cam like that and then they will be close enough to bolt on. They won't move too far from there that they will put a valve into a piston.
 

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  • Right camshaft timing.JPG
    Right camshaft timing.JPG
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Thanks alot and for the picture

Thanks, you guys are all alot of help. thanks for the picture also, i should be done by the weekend, i will post pictures, i had to chase the guy i loaned my cherry picker down and just got it today.




I got another message saying it's been 49 hours since I sent the email. The address matches what you have above.

Set the cams close to TDC in the heads before bolting them down, and have the engine at TDC then also. You can't spin the cams around after they are on the engine to get them to TDC, the valves would hit pistons. That was my point, all three have to be very near to TDC when they go together.

The TDC tools make it very easy to locate TDC for each cam. I take it you will have each head complete from a shop. You need to rotate each cam until the one tool lines up with the two slots on the cam.

One end of each cam has a bolt and the chain sprocket, call that the front end of the cam. The back end has nothing except two slots cut into it. Those are the timing slots, the one special tool lines up with those slots. You don't have to place the tool in it's holder and bolt it down to the head(valve cover holes).

The slots need to be parallel with the edge of the valve cover rail(draw a line through them), and nearer to the head(I'm trying to remember), instead of farther away from the head. I should have a picture somewhere.

Place each cam like that and then they will be close enough to bolt on. They won't move too far from there that they will put a valve into a piston.
 






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