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Camber Bullshit

fishhead

Member
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December 20, 2011
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City, State
Comox BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994sport/Built 1996 Z28
So i just did a Skyjacker 2 in lift on my 94 explorer the camber is now out (to be expected) what I did not expect is the 2 places i went to today both told me im out of luck unless i buy a camber kit for the explorer. Now i have read up a lot on lifts and i was under the impression that a aliment will at lest get my wheels close to stock position which is all i expect, its a goddam 2 in lift!! I know i have the stock adjustable bushings and for now all I was hoping for was to get it close to stock im looking to see what others have with similar lifts.

One of these assholes suggested i dident get a complete lift because i was missing drop brackets for my front end...the other one just kept repeating what i already knew "yup your gunna need a camber adjustment you can see the camber is out" then proceeded to tell me it will be hundreds of dollars to fix ( i know is BS)

Now im pretty pissed about this, most of my interactions with licensed mechanics really makes me wonder how these guys ever made it out of the womb i rarely ever take anything to a "real mechanic" because it always ends with me being frustrated.

Im not looking to get perfect tread wear here I know its almost impossible to get a even wear pattern with these 4wd monsters.


This photo shows the chamber it looks a lot worse in the pic that it actually is this was taken literately 5 min after everything was installed.
P3120010-1.jpg
 



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Now im pretty pissed about this, most of my interactions with licensed mechanics really makes me wonder how these guys ever made it out of the womb i rarely ever take anything to a "real mechanic" because it always ends with me being frustrated.
I worked in a small engine repair shop with a guy that was "ASE CERTIFIED" He was hired after me, and hired at a higher wage then me. Come to find out he was "ASE CERTIFIED" FOR EXHAUST!!!! freaking EXHAUST!!! I didn't stick around that job much longer
 






Can't you just unhook it and crank it out then hook it back up? All these mechanics want is money and they mark up their parts even if they claim not to business is all about profit
 






Yes you need a "camber kit" to correct it.

A "camber kit" is nothing more than a pair of Ford TTB alignment bushings, though.

Will cost you all of $5-10/ea for each bushing, maybe more if you have to buy them at an overpriced auto parts store, less if you shop around and see who has what. You might even find an alignment shop or 4x4/suspension shop that has some in stock, maybe even super cheap if they never use them.

You will probably want either the 2.0" or 2 3/8" bushings. Several companies make them, including Moog, Specialty Products Corp. and more.

$(KGrHqR,!hgF!ys+5d!sBQbdu4T6-w~~60_35.jpg



You might also consider a slightly dropped pitman arm, depending on how level the steering is after the lift.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm
 






I really appreciate the thoughtful responses Anime!
 






Thanks for the info anime i dont think ill need a drop arm but that link is really good.
I found another thread on here and the guy had his aligned by a small shop with his stock bushings... not to say that that will be the case with me but they did suggest staying away from chains which is not what I did today. Im going to be calling smaller shops in the morning hoping they have the shims i need and make sure I get a answer before heading out.

(Doushebags at OK tire said everything would be fine before I left he house but when I arrived buddy was all about telling me i was missing the drop braket)
 
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The bushings work by giving positive camber when positioned one way (hole farther out), and negative camber when positioned the other way (hole farther in), and can even be positioned with the hole in the "middle" towards the front to give "zero" camber but positive caster.

This means if the stock bushings have a degree or two of camber, sometimes you can get at least a little better alignment by turning them around, from the positive position to the negative. Generally most stock bushings are just 1 degree or so, some are less, but 1 degree of negative camber will help the alignment more than 1 degree of positive camber, since you're actually getting 2 degrees of correction.
 






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