Cams for 1985-1996 roller block

[tinman_72]

Am I correct to assume that when a cam is listed for use in 85-96 roller blocks they are just pandering to Mustang owners? My '99 Mounty 5.0 motor will surely accept such a cam, yes? (Not using EFI, its going in my Ranger.)

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes. Any roller cam listed for a 302 or 351W will go into any SBF block, that's 255 through the 400.

The only issue to worry about is the distributor gear used. Be sure to use a steel gear for the typical roller cams, which are made for the OEM EFI distributors(the gear on it). Don't listen to some aftermarket companies who still describe their cam as needed a bronze or melanized gear etc.Those are all softer than the OEM gears, and will wear out fast, ruining the engine.

For any aftermarket distributor, check the installed clearance of the gear to the cam, so it matches the stock clearance(proper gear meshing). That also could be an issue. Mixing any non stock parts often requires checking certain clearances.

 

[tinman_72]

Thanks, just wanted to be sure.
Am planning on using new OEM distributor for '85 Mustang GT, which comes with the steel gear. Never thought to check clearance on that, I will definitely keep it in mind. I am still in the parts collecting stage right now.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good. Using the stock(OEM) distributor, that shouldn't need the clearance check. It should always be done to be OCD/****, but we trust the OEM parts to be right and most of us skip those steps. As more and more parts come from the aftermarket, the issues come up more, so we learn these odd checks that in the old days were never done. I'm old.

 

[tinman_72]

Very good. Using the stock(OEM) distributor, that shouldn't need the clearance check. It should always be done to be OCD/****, but we trust the OEM parts to be right and most of us skip those steps. As more and more parts come from the aftermarket, the issues come up more, so we learn these odd checks that in the old days were never done. I'm old.

I'm no spring chicken myself. I have always used OEM stuff where I can. A high dollar billet distributor would be nice but they don't really do anything for performance.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, unless the rpm's get very high, stock distributors do well.

I'm still pondering a mild 306 build, for my V6 Explorer that would be a daily driver, dirty job SUV. I see pricing for nice pistons to be $500ish, while a stroker kit is $999. I might do the stroker just for fun given the price being not bad over a 306 assembly. I would build it with mild heads and ported Explorer intake, but high compression(9.7:1(regular gas)), and a custom cam to make it work. Any mild SBF is going to cost near $3k unless everything is basically stock parts, and who wants that.

 

[tinman_72]

I have quite a few parts on the way, none of which are OEM. Procomp aluminum GT40 heads 2.05/1.60 valves, dual plane air-gap style intake, 600CFM Edelbrock Performer carb.
I am looking at a Summit 303 cam. Will definitely have to check for valve clearance. Do you know what type of pistons these engines came with? I am guessing the four eyebrow flattops?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes they are "normal" pistons, and the GT40 style head needs those. There are really only two piston types to look at, the normal valve reliefs, or the TFS Twisted Wedge type. So you need typical 302 pistons. I've slowly watched and searched for feasible pistons for a couple of years. I thought until recently that a cast or hypereutectic pistons was going to be the best choice. But if you look for a while, you'll see two cheap level choices. The garbage stock replacement stuff can be as little as $125 or so for a set(no rings), and the upper level of cheap will run $300 or more, and have no rings. So assuming you don't want to risk the cheap cheap pistons, you're looking at $350 or more after buying rings also, maybe $400 with high level rings.

That is a lot, I know. I built my first Cleveland in 1980, and forged TRW pistons then were about $25 each. They still make those pistons, but they are near double I think, last I looked.

Getting the compression you want is a tough part. It's hard to gain compression with a 302 in rebuilding, unless you buy very small chamber heads, or choose near flat pistons, and zero deck. I have 58cc heads for my project, which is kind of a standard size for 302 heads. To get upper 9:1 it leaves few pistons choices in that $300+ range. So in a recent Corral thread, a few links were posted for nice forged pistons. The one I liked the best was a Wiseco piston, $500ish including nice rings, and they weigh less than the KB $300 pistons. The cast pistons are in the mid 500gram weight, while the Wiseco was 465grams each. Figuring the $100 difference in price, I'd prefer the lighter forged piston, which is a very high quality part.

I think this might be the Wiseco piston, but it's from an old search I had in an open tab. If not it's close, and this one is $395 with the rings, unknown seller;

PTS500A3 - 4.030 bore

302 Flat Top 3.00 Forged ProTru Pistons w/ rings [PTS500A3] - $395.00 : AD Performance, Your Source for Longblock Performance Parts

AD Performance 302 Flat Top 3.00 Forged ProTru Pistons w/ rings [PTS500A3] - Wiseco ProTru Forged 302 or 393 Stroker Flat Top Pistons, Forged 4032, Coated with JE Rings Probe PN: PTS500A3 - 4.030 bore Flat Top 5cc Valve relief, Inline Relief 1.600 Compression Height for stock 302 rebuild or...

www.adperformance.com

 

[tinman_72]

I am planning to mostly leave the short block alone. New Blueprint oil pump, crack the mains to make sure they are okay, check my valve clearances and inspect cylinder walls. I might have to have the factory pistons clearanced for the larger valves and cam, hopefully that is all. I checked compression about 6 months ago and it was all good. The engine does not burn excessive oil.
I will actually loose a little compression. The heads have 62cc chambers. From the research I have done, the factory GT40P heads on it now are 59cc. I am okay with this, I don't want to be locked in to premium gas only anyway.

 

[CDW6212R]

The GT40P's have the smallest chambers, that 59cc is about right. Install one of the thinnest head gaskets you can, in the low .030 if you can. Regular fuel can be run on over 9.5 compression, but the cam becomes more important at those levels. Less compression tolerates cams better than high figures.

 

[Blown]

My preference has been to stay with a milder cam with good torque to move these heavy rigs, not a higher RPM cam. The X's are heavy compared to a Stang, though your Ranger's not as heavy as an explorer.

 

[CDW6212R]

My preference has been to stay with a milder cam with good torque to move these heavy rigs, not a higher RPM cam. The X's are heavy compared to a Stang, though your Ranger's not as heavy as an explorer.

I also like the OEM roller cams for stock short blocks and mild heads(mild engine and compression).